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My issue with measuring is that it drags out the gameplay to a point where it's just not fun anymore. Between being out of range and out right missing the target, it can really take more than 2 hours for a standard game. Some people can keep attentive but after 2 hours of "crap, I'm out of range again," I just can't keep focused.

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My wargaming circle is coming to Warlord from Chronopia, and the idea of premeasuring is tantamount to sin. Being able to estimate if your forces are close enough to charge is part of the skill that comes with tabletop games. And remember, close distances are easily eyeballed by dint of the fact that most Warlord grunts are on a one inch base. Warlord is in fact even easier in that there are no range increments for missile weapons--you're either in range, or you ain't. Believe me, this game is the least bothered by tape rulers that you can get.

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My issue with measuring is that it drags out the gameplay to a point where it's just not fun anymore. Between being out of range and out right missing the target, it can really take more than 2 hours for a standard game. Some people can keep attentive but after 2 hours of "crap, I'm out of range again," I just can't keep focused.

 

If you are playing a game and you miss more than one charge/spell attempt/archery volley per game, one could argue you don't *start* very focused. :lol: After all, you and your opponent are either moving closer, or you aren't.

 

If you pre-measure, you and your opponent are missing an important tactical tool. For instance, I often deliberately set up an inch or two (or three) short of the edge of my deployment zone, just to prevent my opponent from mathematically figuring out exactly where I am, and how far he has to move to get his mages or archers into range. If you can make that first spell or shot miss, you gain an advantage.

 

But mostly, I find that pre-measuring doesn't appreciably speed up most miniatures games. For every decision it makes quicker ("My mage can't hit that troop with his fireball"), it slows down others ("Well, let's check all the units that my mage could possibly hit with his fireball, and then I'll decide which one to hit.") Starship Troopers is a 'measure everything first' game, and I haven't noticed game times being appreciably less than similar sized Warlord or WH40K games.

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The other important aspect to realize too, is that you're rather new to the game underling. Once you get the rules down, and don't have to look at a data card for every action, and double check rules, the game will very quickly speed up. I've been able to complete 1000 point games in 45 minutes to an hour with folks that know the games, if we don't spend too much time BS'ing and goofing off while we play.

 

Measurement is a very important strategy for the game.

We have a local player, that is brutal about it. He's been mini gaming for years. His visual spacial skills are disgusting. He'll double check your charge distance with you, then place his model down. He doesn't even need to measure. It's a guarantee, if you have an 8 inch charge, he will have his model placed about 8-1/4" from your model. And you know who you are <cough> sldrdude <cough> :lol:

 

Another thing to remember with measurements too: Most of the time, if you're keeping a unit in the same formation, there's no need to measure every individual model's movement. If they have the same movement, are going to the same location, and maintaining the same position, measure from one guy, and just shift the whole formation. They are all going to make that same distance, and can make it.

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#1

I support the felt from the fabric store. It's cheap, easy to store and you can have many different colors. I have green and brown and black and blue....I guess you could do white too! :huh:

 

#2

I don't think measuring affects a game too much. You call your shot, measure, if you were wrong you wasted an action right? I guess if you want to be a "measurement nazi" it could drag on. Like if your opponent has to check all your measurements etc. Otherwise it should flow pretty smoothly...

 

I think my new tactic will be to shave the bases....that way my opponent can't guesstimate the distance I moved etc....

^_^

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Never met the "measurement Nazi", but they might be out there. Usually wargamers are pretty civilized--as long as you agree on things beforehand, you shouldn't have too many problems, and if you let your friends/opponents slide that millimeter extra for a charge, you should expect the same reciprocity. It's a game after all.

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Thanks for all the advice. I definitely knew to avoid the hex type mats, that just seems silly. I got me a Woodland Scenics mat for gaming on. Looks like it will be the best option overall. Tho I just measured my dining table at 3x4, so I may have to get a board of some sort to lay on top of the table to get to either 4x4 or 4x6. We'll see how it goes when i get my 2 army's painted and some terrain bought or made (still trying to decide if pre-built is worth the money over time/effort/cost of building my own.)

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any idea how they hinge those warboards? Duct tape would work, but seems the surface would have a hard time sticking to it.

 

@Naterstein, Simple open terrain is pretty easy to make. Hills are not hard either and as you get familiar with the hot wire cutter, other things start coming to mind. It is an addiction that gets into the blood. The hard part is that terrain by its nature is large, blue/pink foam comes in 4' x 8' sheets. You start blowing flock (static grass) on it and that stuff gets everywhere.

 

But terrain never really sells well (at least on ebay) and you can pick up some neat stuff for a $20.

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I too will chime in in support of Monday Knight Productions' mats. I've owned four, and three of them are still in general use. The fourth (my 1st) fell victim to a bad spill and then we made the mistake to try to wash it in the washing machine. Not pretty. Now, no liquids are allowed on the mats, and the tan one I use for my most frequent battles (I have a bunch of terrain themed around it) has been in use for nearly a year straight without showing signs of wear.

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The basic formula for a skirmish game is that a 4 X 4 table is good for up to around 30 models a side. Obviously a 6 X 4 table is good for either larger numbers of models or more room to manoever. When you get around 50 models a side a 4 X 4 table gets real crowded and you have the sensation of your forces tripping over each other. It's playable and still fun, but nothing beats a massive battle using the whole mat.

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I'm surprised no one has asked this yet, so of course, that means I'm going to have to. **Sigh** Kids. :devil:

 

Who is this Gaming Mat and why is everyone asking for his advice on creating a good table top playing surface? I have yet to see him respond. Gaming Mat! Oh Gaming Mat! Where art thou, Gaming Mat? :lol:::P::bday::devil:::D::upside:

 

Wild Bill :blues:

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I'm surprised no one has asked this yet, so of course, that means I'm going to have to. **Sigh** Kids. :devil:

 

Who is this Gaming Mat and why is everyone asking for his advice on creating a good table top playing surface? I have yet to see him respond. Gaming Mat! Oh Gaming Mat! Where art thou, Gaming Mat? :lol:::P::bday::devil:::D::upside:

 

Wild Bill :blues:

 

::P: Grammar Jurk :blush::down:::D:

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For those of you who own one of the War Zone WarBoards, is there anything "manufactured" (for lack of a better term) about them, or could you easily create one yourself using styrofoam board, turf/static grass, and a styrofoam cutter? I'm thinking about getting one, but if there really isn't anything that complicated about them, I'll probably just take the time to make one myself.

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