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Pro or Master?


L337Dwarf
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I like GW's red and yellow, and Ultramarine Blue. I hate their flesh tones. As for the bottles, I have a red here that dried up before I got to use it, but I ALSO have all the colours I ever bought in the old, old, tapered bottle with fliptop lid. I hear the new GW bottles are less heinous. The old colours are still produced in superior bottles by coat d'arms, and are in fact the exact paints GW used to sell: http://www.gladiator.clara.net/coatd.htm

 

I have enjoyed working with Vallejo Model Colour, both for the fast coverage and flat, matte finish. However they tend to be clumpy, grainy, and take too long to mix.

 

My experinces thus far with RMS is that they are very, very smooth. (I have had a dropper bottle block up in the nozzle, however this is pretty easy to get around and will not ruin the paint in the bottle. I like dropper bottles.) The RMS do not cover as fast as VMC but are much easier to get just the right consistency with and seem to thin to the "right" transparency faster and more consistently.

 

I haven't really checked this out, but I tend to think the VMC do not have nearly as good wearing properties as the old-old GW (coat d'arms) paints. Jury is out on RMS as I have only now started painting large numbers of figures with them ( ya know, hordes. Masses. Nearly ten.)

 

Colours: the RMS Gold Metallic highlight is beautiful, shiney, yellow gold. I've only used a little but I believe in love at first sight. The original Red triads are better than you initially think, layering them makes a really rich deep red.

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Reaper MSPs are very durable paints. Since I usually paint the figure separately from the base, I used to do a few coats of dullcoat on figures painted with VMCs before attaching to the base. If I didn't, I'd end up rubbing off quite a bit during assembly. With MSPs, I don't have to do that.

 

After my recent disaster where my painting table fell over, and several of the figures I'm working on for ReaperCon ended up on the floor, I was very glad to be using MSPs. Most were unscathed. I think only two of them needed a touchup or two. Had I been using VMCs, I'm sure I would have abandoned most of them.

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I can second what flynn said. I have a *very* bad habit of holding on to the already painted parts of my CAVs when I'm painting and tend to rub off the paint.

 

You might try attaching the CAV to a piece of craft wood or a baby food jar filled with sand using blu tack or some other reusable poster tack putty. You might need a good pass of putty, but the wood or baby food jar would give you something to hold onto while working. I do put a finger on the base of the mini if I'm going to hold the wood upside down or at some other extreme angle.

 

I personally use pieces of craft wood. $1 for a pair of blocks or a trio of "thimbles" from Hobby Lobby.

 

Ron

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Hot Glue a bottle cap to a length of 3/4" dowel (mine are cut to about 4" lengths).

 

Poster tack your model to the bottle cap. Need a spot to rest it while you paint? A 3/4" dowel fits perfectly into the neck of a 16 oz bottle of soda (filled with sand or water). Bottle cap rests on the lip of the bottle. The dowel gives you a great, comfortably sized handle to hold the mini in your off hand.

 

Also, if you cut that soda bottle down at around the point it finishes fanning out as illustrated by horrendous Ascii artwork:

	  ___
 |  |
/	\
 /		\   
|____________|	<~~ About here
|			|

 

It works nicely as a shield for your hand if you spray prime or spray seal. Drop the dowel down the neck and hold so that it covers your hand. It's also wide enough and stiff enough plastic, that you can just put it down on the table like that, and the model will not tip over.

 

Back on topic. Yeah, the MSPs hold up very well to handling during the painting process. Great adhesion so it doesn't rub off with casual contact. Although it will come off, like most paints if the models are treated roughly prior to durable finish coats. One thing I have started doing to help protect the paint while WIP, is adding a little Gloss Medium into my Gunk mix. It helps add a little protection to every layer without the need to stop and coate at every step. I've used models for multiple games while being WIP and haven't had the paint come off.

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One, he's got my old formula for thinner; let's update that:

 

10% slow dry or extender (drying retarder)

40% Reaper MSP Flow Improver or other (others may need thinning with water before mixing)

50% filtered water (or tap water if the water in your area is good)

 

Note that I use a drop or two of this thinner to bring the paint to basecoat consistancy. All other thinning from that point on is done with straight H20. ::):

 

All other things are equivalent--including that most MSP's can be worked from the bottle, the exceptions being the thicker ochres and Scorched Metal metallic--except the ratios he gives for thinning. For MSP's, the ratios (always in general) are:

 

Basecoat: 4:1 or 3:1 paint to water/thinner, depending on thickness

Layering: 2:1 or 1:1 paint to water/thinner, depending on opacity

Washes: As with layering

Glazes: 1:1 or 1:2 paint to water, depending on how much you wish the glaze to color/tint the surface underneath it. ::):

 

I use "wash" differently than Whiz does, my washes are quite heavy and color the figure dramatically, whereas my glazes are meant to subtly add complexity, depth, or to hide brushstrokes.

 

Otherwise, he's dead on, and a very good article it is for bridging the beginner to intermediate gap. ::):

 

--Anne

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