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"Cold" NMM Gold?


Tommy
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:devil:

 

Howdy guys! :lol:

 

Looking for a little help here, if I may. I have a nice little way of doing a warm red-gold NMM, but a figure currently on my workbench calls for a cold NMM gold. I know I've seen kickarse jobs with this kind of effect elsewhere, but I have no idea as to the recipe used. If anyone has one - preferably one using MSP's, as that's what I'm using myself - I'd be much appreciative if you could enlighten me (preferably with a picture showing the result too, if possible). :unsure:

 

I realise this is a big ask, but I'm kinda stuck right now... :huh:

 

 

Tommy. :B):

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Hmm, I have a recipe for this effect that I cooked up right after I got my MSP's.

 

1. Muddy Brown

2. Midtone Tanned Leather

3. Marigold Yellow

4. Amber Gold

5. Golden Brown

6. Linen White

 

This is the mini that I painted using this specific work up of strictly MSPs.

 

Ansel2up.jpg

 

 

I like that gold alot, but I've never used that recipe once since then, although I've been meaning to. I always stick to the recipe that Lilliana Troy came up with, it's ironclad.

 

1. GW Scorched Brown

2. Vallejo English Uniform

3. GW Snakebite Leather

4. Vallejo Green Ochre

5. GW Bleached Bone

 

I substitute VGC for any GW paints listed however.

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<snip>

I like that gold alot, but I've never used that recipe once since then, although I've been meaning to. I always stick to the recipe that Lilliana Troy came up with, it's ironclad.

 

1. GW Scorched Brown

2. Vallejo English Uniform

3. GW Snakebite Leather

4. Vallejo Green Ochre

5. GW Bleached Bone

 

I substitute VGC for any GW paints listed however.

 

For RMS users, that would be: Blackened Brown, Uniform Brown, the brand-new Halforc Highlight when it comes out in December (it's an equiv. for Snakebite), Green Ochre, and Yellowed Bone. There are very few colors left that GW makes that we don't make something really close or perfect match for. :;):

 

--Anne

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For RMS users, that would be: Blackened Brown, Uniform Brown, the brand-new Halforc Highlight when it comes out in December (it's an equiv. for Snakebite), Green Ochre, and Yellowed Bone. There are very few colors left that GW makes that we don't make something really close or perfect match for. :;):

 

--Anne

 

That's the best news I've heard today. That will be a great boon to actually use ONLY RMS paints one day. I can't quite make due just as of yet because of the lack of certain colors and my laziness in mixing them. The more I use these paints the more I realize that I can't function without them. Took me awhile to get used to using them, but now, they are so godly for painting minis with. Any new color additions to this line of *ideal* paints (from a professional painters point of view) are always most welcome news.

 

Especially as the news relates both to colors that "mimic" the colors of VGC and of colors that I use often like Snakebite but for which there really wasn't a close match in MSP until now. Excellent news.

 

I love the color range of VGC, but I almost can't stand to open them up and use them now because of thier inferior quality for the most part across the board compared to the RMS. Many times I've opened up snakebite or bonewhite and gone "ugh, Reaper needs to make these colors badly." Then you made the Ivories (which I love) and now the snakebite is on it's way. Big deal to me. I'm stoked.

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Great news on the equivalencies, there are so many recipes floating around and people who think in GW colour terms that it's very handy to have as many as possible available in RMS.

 

I have the opposite query to Tommy's. I have a cold gold recipe I'm fairly happy with (pretty similar to Flynn's), but now I'm not in love with my warm golds lately, and would love to hear some ideas for what people are doing there if Tommy doesn't mind me hijacking his thread.

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Hmm, warm golds. I have to say that Jester's is the one I like the most. The MSP Ocher Golds and the method he used to paint them are exactly the way I do it. Hell I even measure out my paint in the same ratios as he mentions in his write up. It's kind of scary, when I read that I was like "whoah, that's exactly how I figured out setting up my paint palettes and mixing up blends, that little color square is exactly how I think about my ideal paint ratios." I use a wet pallet though for even subtler fine tuning between shades as I do with almost any blend I'm serious about. And when I want to get really serious, I bust out my Japanese ceramic flower palette for fine tuning glazes specifically with precision control. Nothing like those palettes to see how your glazes feel and look.

 

*Edit: Also adding a link to my buddy Boltman's method of doing warm golds. This guy has it down to a sweet science.

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/lofiver...php/t74782.html

 

I'll link to Jester's page now as it's way more efficient than retyping. It's a beautiful warm gold done with only MSP's. And the technique he talks about is very well written up and a great description for achieving the right look. Takes a hell of alot of time and patience though. Especially when you get to the lighter tones. Really hard to keep it looking orange instead of yellow, that's the trick to keeping it warm.

 

Bah, it won't let me directly link to the page. But just go to

 

http://jestersminiaturestudios.com/

 

Then look under his tutorials under "On Blending Paints." It's there.

 

If you wanted to warm it up even more, what I've found is adding MSP Pheonix red in small amounts to all your tones will do the trick, goes more orangey, looks so nice.

 

 

Now, specific to some other recipes that I've come up with I'll at least list the shorthand versions here, they are a start to the way I approach different kinds of gold.

 

VGC=Vallejo Game Color VMC=Vallejo Model Color MSP=Reaper Master Series Paints

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. Snakebite mids over Beasty Brown over Scorched Brown. All VGC.

2. Snakebite plus white. Glaze transitions with Beasty Brown.

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

1. Scorched Earth Base VGC

2. Parasite Brown VGC

3. Scroufulous Brown VGC

4. White.

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

1. Beasty Brown Base VGC

2. Parasite Brown VGC

3. Ochre Brown VMC

4. Yellow Ochre VMC

5. Ivory VMC

6. White

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

1. SS Camo Black Brown VMC

2. Leather Brown VMC

3. German Camo Medium Brown VMC

4. Beige Brown VMC

5. Light Brown VMC + Cork Brown VMC 1:1

6. Iraqui Sand VMC

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

1. SS Camo Black Brown VMC

2. Beasty Brown VGC

3. Scroufulous Brown VGC

4. Goldbrown VMC

5. Linen White MSP

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

1. Scorched Earth VGC + Cold Grey VGC 3:1

2. Beasty Brown VGC

3. Ochre Brown VMC

4. Pale Sand VMC

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

You can use craft paints too. All Delta Ceramcoat or Americana (This rules ALL! But is so chalky when thinned sigh. Painters like myself and Bushido have been known to use craft paints to achieve certain effects when called for. THis effect produces gold very similar to the MSP gold, yet you lose the smoothness of thinning that you get with MSP's with this cheap paint. The colors are heavenly though, but it's so simple, and sounds tasty.)

 

1. Milk Chocolate

2. Honey Brown

3. Golden Brown

4. French Vanilla

 

Here's a photo of this bombin' craft paint gold on this old mini. I can't stand the grit though, so have abandoned this beauty, have yet to match it in terms of color and effectiveness. I was very partial to the way it looked in hand and in the photos.

 

2upEfreetForum.jpg

 

 

So there are a few choices to play around with for warm golds. If you look closely at these recipes you'll see that they're all very similar to one another with slight variations here and there. My fave is still the tried and true MSP version listed first with a bit of phoenix red thrown in for even more lush orange tones.

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Equivalency charts for GW and Pro Paint are already available, stickied in the top section of the Painting Tips forum. ::): You may have to scroll down a bit for some of it, though I've tried to keep it short. We do not have a full VMC chart yet (comparing 216 colors to 218 is no picnic), but I'm still plugging away at it here and there.

 

In fact, now that the Snakebite equiv. is mixed, I need to go update that GW chart... :;):

 

--Anne

Edit: GW/Citadel equivalency chart updated, 11/22/06

 

Thanks for the heads-up Anne!! Mater of fact, these two posts raise another (!) question: Anne, would it be possible for us to get a list of these RMS colour equivalencies? This would be incredibly useful - not least of all for those of us running Reaper painting events in areas of heavy GW saturation, where "but I have to keep using GW because nobody else makes this colour" is often heard. :huh:

 

 

Tommy. :B):

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Just thought I'd throw another $0.02 on this thread; for warm gold in RMS I usually go :

 

Muddy Brown

Mahogany Brown

Chestnut Gold

Palomino Gold

Buckskin Pale

Linen White

Pure White

 

Visual example:

reborn1.jpg

 

Or:

 

Muddy Brown

Mahogany Brown

Uniform Brown

Green Ochre

Buckskin Pale

Linen White

Pure White

 

Visual example:

3066avatarfront.jpg

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