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dyelan

Pyramid

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Hey All,

 

This is a Hirst Arts pyramid I'm giving a go at. The blocks were purchased already cast. I glued them together using Elmers wood glue per the instructions.

 

I'm pretty much a tabletop painter, so this is fairly challenging for me. At least size wise.

 

Already made a minor modification. I did not want a large opening for a doorway in the side of the pyramid. So, I constructed a small (2 blocks high) secret door.

 

Anthony

 

post-2770-1167321890_thumb.jpg

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Construction complete. The upper 5 level went together easier than the lower 3. Getting the corners to match up decently was a pain. Each ascending row had one less block. So, it was just a matter of glue a level and wait for it to dry. Otherwise the walls might sag.

 

I'm leaving the upper and lower sections separate so the interior of the pyramid can be used.

 

The blocks are made from dental plaster. I'm assuming regular mini paints and primer will work. I have a spraycan of bleached bone from citadel and a spraycan of phoenician yellow from model master to try out on some extra blocks as a basecoat.

 

Anthony

 

post-2770-1167409505_thumb.jpg

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Nice pyramid. I definitely have to get my hands on some of these moulds. Wonder if they have an Australia supplier???

 

Nice work on the pyramid. I can't wait to see how it turns out.

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Huzzah for Hirst!

 

Although it's likely you've already started, dental plaster can be thirsty; you'll find it takes a bit more acrylic to cover it. I'm not sure how Elmer's reacts to water, but Alene's craft glue will soften if you get it too wet. Otherwise, your normal paints will work quite well.

 

I'm happy to see someone making the pyramid...it's not a set of molds we've felt the need to get just yet, but it'll be nice to see someone other than Hirst paint one up.

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Thanks for the help. Everyones advice turned out to be true. The dental plaster definitely was thirsty for paint. Some paints reacted "weirdly".

 

For example, a basecoat in bleached bone and a volcano brown wash made the pyramid look dirty.

 

 

pyramid.bmp

 

Next I tried a basecoat in phoenician yellow. This made the pyramid slick. So I used Testors dull cote and then a woodland brown wash.

 

pyramid_1.bmp

 

Several washes later and I'm not sure if I've gone too dark.

 

pyramid_2.bmp

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I don't think it's too dark--but if it is too dark, overall, for your liking, you can always drybrush it up to a lighter shade, leaving the wash in the cracks. Hirst Arts blocks drybrush like a dream, and once you've got several coats (especially that dullcote layer) down, the plaster is much less thirsty!

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