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Sanael

Bitten off more...

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Ok...scenario: for an interim game, to be picked up whenever the group doesn't feel like playing the campaign-at-hand, build a stable of five characters of the same level. This way, we have ready-made characters to lug into one-shots and loosely-cohesive story arcs. This is also meant to be a high-power game, to offset the low-power nature of the campaign-at-hand.

 

Given this scenario, of course I have to paint minis for all of my characters...and potentially for several other players. So here's my stable, and I'll keep this updated as we go. Hopefully I'll also continue work on some of the other minis I have on the table, too.

 

It's odd, but most of these aren't Reaper...there was a good sale on some Privateer Press minis...

 

1. Garrick Wintercreep, goblin Druid/Rogue/Abolisher, and his animal companion, the blink dog Spot. These two started life as one of Rackham's Goblin Adepts and Reaper's Hound of Judgement.

2. Fortinbras Fellfire, human Fighter and Firebrand of Sirrion. He bears an uncanny resemblance to Privateer Press' Paladin of the Wall.

3. Moira, elan Psychic Warrior and Pyrokineticist. She is oddly familiar to those who know PP's Feora.

4. Pale Korras, orc Cleric of Gruumsh, Barbarian, and Warpriest. Another PP mini, some warbeast or another.

5. Thalassa Mavros, Dargonesti (sea elf) Ranger and Wizard, and her familiar, the water drake Marmora. Thalassa is actually a mini I don't have yet, though Reaper's Sushanthe (03141) is on her way to fill the role. The drake shown here is one of the first minis I ever painted, a GW salamander...the salamander will be dipped and reborn as Marmora (like a baptism for minis, I suppose).

 

post-3328-1168548652_thumb.jpg

 

Yeah, right now it looks like a jumble of unpainted pewter. I'll be posting these guys individually in the future, and the first post of each will include an individual shot of what you see here, as well as whatever I've done to warrant a new post.

 

As a side note, I've discovered that, although I think PP has a few really wonderful sculpts, Reaper is still the best as far as putting minis together. Dry-fitting the PPs and the Rackham was really a pain, and I'm going to need far more pins for them than I would expect for Reapers of the same size. PPs penchant for breaking minis at the waist probably has some kind of important mold-related reasoning behind it, but it sure does drive me batty.

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Very cool idea to have a spare or two handy. I can't wait to see how these turn out. Thanks for the info on PP minis. We don't have too many of them here at my FLGS, but now I will be more wary of mulipart models. Cheers!

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OK...here's some prep work on Garrick, Pale Korras, and Moira.

 

Garrick's starting point:

 

post-3328-1168564914.jpg

 

At this point, I'd already taken the slot-pin off Garrick's base and put some pumice paste around the Hound's base. You can also see where I didn't clean flash off the Hound before priming. Here's what's new:

 

post-3328-1168564949.jpg

 

I've cleaned up the flashing (didn't feel the need to post pics of that, and there wasn't too much anyway, and started getting him base-ready. Garrick, as you can see in the pics, has the dubious honor of the first injury of this set. I drilled through his foot, rather than into his ankle, to pin him to the base. I'll be sure to post the greenstuff band-aid I'll make for him later.

Spot the blink-dog has had a little work done, too. The flash on his foreleg is cleaned up, and I've put a magnet on his base. I do this because we use alea tools' markers and various other metal/magnetic items when gaming. The normal medium bases most of these guys are on are galeforce 9 magna-bases. For the familiars, I've cut magnetic sheets (the same ones the GF9 bases are packaged on) into appropriate shapes. The sheet has adhesive backing; just peel the paper off and slap it down. I add a little glue for security's sake.

 

Pale Korras, the orc:

 

post-3328-1168565476.jpg

 

You can see Korras has quite a few pieces. This is where my Privateer Press frustration begins. I knew at the outset I'd have to pin his torso, but all those joints are just flat pewter...nothing to bind. So here's what I did:

 

post-3328-1168565586.jpg

 

Clockwise from the bottom left, I put pins in for the left arm and head, torso, and right wrist. I also pinned his feet for the GF9 base (also had to remove the slot-pin on this one). In the two pics on the right, you can see where I'll be greenstuffing the neck-joint and the tummy. This mini doesn't piece together real well. The central pic is where Korras stands now...I'm leaving the left arm off until I've painted the torso, as it will block parts of the body otherwise. That pin for the left arm, by the way, was a doozie to make fit, especially since the sculptor got lazy on the (mostly unseen) underside of the arm (another thing I've noticed with other PP minis I've painted...detail goes away when it's in a hard-to-see place).

 

Moira:

 

post-3328-1168565956_thumb.jpg

 

Moira is a really fun sculpt. She's walking on a pool of fire, brandishing a halberd. Problem is, she's got many of the same joint-security problems Korras had, but is much more delicate...she's harder to pin. So for now, I've just pinned her torso together. I'll have to greenstuff the joint above her derrierre. As for her arms, I may just have to use some strong epoxy...unless I can find some super-thin wire to pin her with?

 

post-3328-1168566307.jpg

 

So that's what's happened so far. Obviously I have a few models to prime (I won't post pics of that; you've all probably seen whites before ::P: ), and then I can get started painting. My posts in the future shouldn't be quite so pic-heavy; I'll try to keep it to one mini per update. Hopefully next time there'll be some color on some of these!

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OK...two things, here...first, I know Nissiana posted a pic of the entry room to our adventurers' guildhall...just to show what kind of geek I am, here's a small part of the overall floorplan. This is the overview; each room also has a detailed floorplan, but you really don't need to see all that. Overall, the whole thing will use less than 400 square inches of floor tiles, which makes it considerably less than some Hirst projects we have in the works.

 

post-3328-1169013421.jpg

 

The second update here is a few shots of some basecoated minis. These are all RMS paints. Spot the blink dog is starting off with the Golden Skin triad (just the midtone down so far), which will trail off in ephemeral wisps of blue, eventually. Pale Korras is in the Terran Khaki triad; he'll end up having some darker, greenish splotches on his skin. You can also, just barely, tell that his corneas are different colors; his left eye is blind and will be greyish/milky. Finally, the goblin, Garrick, has some brown robes (Earth Brown triad) and Coldstone Grey skin; I plan to highlight the grey up quite a bit. If anyone has color suggestions, I'd be happy to hear them, and if anyone has suggestions about Korras' blind eye that would be great! I'm kinda stuck at "grey and opaque" right now, but more detail than that might be nice.

 

OK...just discovered the basecoated skins pic is a lot larger than I thought...I'll shrink it down and post it tomorrow...for now, you'll just have to imagine . ::D:

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ok...apparently I forgot to size down the file in photoshop...it was originally about twice this size. But, here it is. Spot, Pale Korras, and Garrick all basecoaty with the skin. Notice also Garrick's left leg (that's the one on the right), where the big groove I cut with a pin vise is now gone; repaired with GS.

 

post-3328-1169055107.jpg

 

In addition to the various things I mentioned in the last post, I've become increasingly concerned with the pebbly/swisscheesy nature of Korras' stomach, there in the lower left corner. Anyone have any ideas what I could do to smooth that out, short of GSing a really thin layer down? I don't want to change the sculpt at all, but that texture is from the casting, not the sculpting...

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Other than a thin amount of GS to smooth it out, I don't know much of what you could do. If you use as thin of a layer as you can you shouldn't change the sculpt too much and should be able to correct the errors.

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On the note of thin pinning material: I use clipped pieces of small safety pins. I snip the pin part from the fastener, then cut the point off so I don't hurt myself. When doing this, wear glasses! Also, youmay want to superglue the remainder of the point to a piece of sprue or stick a small ball of poster tackon it, so you know where it goes when it comes off. No fun to step on a 1mm long needle point.

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Cool idea, Sanael. I will be following this one as well as Nissi's with interest.

 

Jabberwocky, I'm glad to know someone's watching...kinda helps with the motivation to get this project underway ::D: ...especially since I'm running the first batch of this guild-game and don't need my minis up and running anytime soon.

 

Other than a thin amount of GS to smooth it out, I don't know much of what you could do. If you use as thin of a layer as you can you shouldn't change the sculpt too much and should be able to correct the errors.

 

I think I'm going to have to try this, at least on some of the smaller surfaces. Nissiana has some polishing rods for the dremel that may work (they're like tiny rigid buffing bits), but I'm nervous about taking that into the ribcage and other finer detailing. I'll post how it all goes, regardless.

 

On the note of thin pinning material: I use clipped pieces of small safety pins. I snip the pin part from the fastener, then cut the point off so I don't hurt myself. When doing this, wear glasses! Also, youmay want to superglue the remainder of the point to a piece of sprue or stick a small ball of poster tackon it, so you know where it goes when it comes off. No fun to step on a 1mm long needle point.

 

That's a good tip, Dane. I know I've seen other people mention guitar strings, but I don't play a guitar, and I'd rather use objects-at-hand...and I have safety pins. Thanks.

 

Now...Fortinbras has come a little ways. Fortinbras is mainly a fighter-type, with a little bit of semi-cleric thrown in. His deity, Sirrion, is a god of fire, creativity and cleansing, so I want his armor to reflect that. This first pic is where he started (I made it a bit small, but it gives you the idea of body shape, attitude, etc.). That shield is not to scale in the pic, I enlarged it to show off the plated structure of it. It's actually about floor-to-shoulder on Forty's body. He also has a big swoopy cape that isn't pictured; it'll be the last thing that goes on.

 

post-3328-1169178240.jpg

 

Second pic, here, is the armor, steps one and two. I'm doing something I haven't done before here, in a variety of ways. I'm doing some shaded metallics (a newish technique for me), and I'm moving from highlight to shadow (I typically, with non-metallic paints, go mid-shadow-high, then glaze and layer from there). This is the same shot of his back. First, I lay down a basecoat of Ancient Bronze. In the second shot, I've put down a basic shadow-shape with a 2:1 mix of Coppery Orange:Ancient Bronze. From here, I'll continue this layering, working through Coppery Orange all the way down to Ruby Red and possibly a darker version of Ruby Red in the darkest shadowed areas.

 

post-3328-1169178944_thumb.jpg

 

So now I have two questions about this guy. First, does anyone have advice or pointers about my process with this guy? And second: I was originally planning to just use a dark silver color for the chainmail liner, and to touch the borders, filligrees, and piping of the armor and cloth with a bright silver. I'm kinda rethinking that now that I have this very orangey armor happening. What do you guys think? The bulk of the cloth will be a deep, deep red, and I want the overall effect to be a very fiery, very righteous look; these flames are not evil, so I don't really want to go darker. Any thoughts are appreciated.

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not much this week...my mini exchange project was getting angry with me...she's not the type to appreciate neglect. I've also started work on another room for the guildhall, a very pretty little garden. I'll post pics of that once it's more than so much unpainted plaster (and no, of course I'm not posting pics of that mini exchange project::P:!).

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Nice work so far Sanael! Impressive looking guildhall--I'll definitely be looking forward to seeing that one materialize. It's hard to comment on the work so far with Spot, Garrick, and Korras since you are only at the basecoat stage. I like the colors you have chosen, though. The khaki is not what pops to mind for an orc, but I tend to be pretty traditional in my thinking, and orcs are green to me. I have seen them done other ways and it comes out looking good, though. It is just a hangup on my part, really. I'll quit talking now about that... :rolleyes: As far as the blind eye goes, I attempted this with an ogress a few months ago. What I found worked well (IMHO) was to paint the eyes as normal, then go over the bad eye with a thin layer of white to give it that milky look. Here is a pic of her--let me know if you want more of a close-up of the face:

Ogresscomp.jpg

 

I think I would agree with Voladilk in regards to greenstuffing the abdomen; no other way around it I don't think.

 

Interesting take on the armor for Fortinbras. I have never ventured outside the base-shade-highlight routine, so I'll be curious to see how it comes out. The transition between the initial colors seems a bit abrupt at this point, but some thin glazes will help to smooth that out. IMO the dark/light silver would be a good choice--it will allow some break up of a very "warm" figure and provide some contrast. Black would be a reasonable alternative as well, although it might take away from the "goodness" of the figure--black and red definitely could be construed as a more "evil" figure. I think yellow would be too much, as would white. A contrasting color like green would definitely be too Christmas-y and take away from the fire of righteousness.

 

Just my 2 cents!

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Jabberwocky- thanks for the comments...I know some of these guys are still too early-on to really say much...as for Korras, I've always thought orcs are green-ish...in the same sense that africans are "black," asians are "yellow" and american natives are "red" (apologies to any this may offend, but I'm trying to point out that this color nomenclature is inaccurate, or at least unreliable). Orcs have a greenish cast to them, some more than others, and Pale Korras is on the, well, pale end of the spectrum.

 

Thanks for posting that ogress...if you wanted to post or PM a close up, I'd appreciate it. Your blind-eye method sounds pretty good, and what I can see of the ogress, it seems to have worked well. She's a nice paint-up, btw...I think this is the first time I've seen someone take on plaid.

 

Thanks also for the bit on Fortinbras' color. I think you're right re: black trim...it would look pretty sweet, but it's not for this character.

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OK...been a while, but multiple projects have hit all at once. So here's what's up.

 

Garrick has seen the most paint lately, mostly on the metal parts. I painted the things that needed it before I could glue down his head (I got tired of hunting for his face all the time, so it's glued down now), as well as the big metal pieces, the bell and scythe blade. I'm pretty pleased with the bell, although there are a few spots that need more glazes on the scythe. The full-body shot is kinda dark, I know, but it's primarily to give context to the other shots.

 

post-3328-1171242460.jpg

 

The other big news is that sea elf finally arrived, and I managed to get all the weapon switching done; I can now begin painting Thalassa. Here's an unprimed shot of her new armament; it's two katanas from weapon pack IV. I clipped her knife out of her fingers, drilled out the plug in her hand, opened her fingers, and glued the two-bladed sword in. I had to do some make-fits, so there's some GS to replace the grip I ruined. I think it'll look worthwhile once I get it primed.

 

The base, btw, is just water effects. I'm going for a slightly rippled, sandy ocean floor. Marmora (Thalassa's water drake animal companion) is now entirely stripped and primed; her base is the same treatment.

 

post-3328-1171242524.jpg

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Woo! I've finally finished my winter exchange project, which I'll post whenever it arrives, so I've done a bit of work on the guild...here's Thalassa, with a basecoat of skin (a few highlights that you can't tell are there), basecoated hair, and the start of a big experiment: tattoos.

 

The skin is one of the various blue triads (in another room, and I'm making this quick, so I'll post that later). The hair is green liner and brown liner, more or less 60/40. Tattoos are currently white, but will fade a bit to a subtle blue-ness as the skin progresses. The tat on her right calf is my so-so attempt at the kanji for "water," (according to "www.kanjiaday.com," or something like that) and the other leg is just a little wave motif.

 

post-3328-1173842835.jpg

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As a side note, I've discovered that, although I think PP has a few really wonderful sculpts, Reaper is still the best as far as putting minis together. Dry-fitting the PPs and the Rackham was really a pain, and I'm going to need far more pins for them than I would expect for Reapers of the same size. PPs penchant for breaking minis at the waist probably has some kind of important mold-related reasoning behind it, but it sure does drive me batty.

 

Hah. Hah hah. I firmly believe there *is* no rhyme nor reason behind PP's moldmaking. Too many models which could have been cast as one piece are three or four, too many mold lines in illogical places, too many small things which have to be pinned because there's no peg for the corresponding divot. Every time my husband gets new pieces, at some point he ends up shouting, 'Why? What were you guys thinking?' And I yell back, 'It's Privateer! They weren't!' :lol:

 

Looks like a great project--it'll be fun to see these guys together.

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