Jump to content

Stripping off old paint/primer


Recommended Posts

Hi all...I'm getting back into painting minis after about a 7-8 year of being away from it.

 

I found a few minis that I had started painting back then and most of the paint was in pretty bad shape (chipped and/or flaked off) and also a lot of the primer as well.

 

Is there a really good chemical of any sort to totally get rid of the primer and paint even at this long a time that it's been on it?

 

I used some nail polish remover on one and the results were okay, but it still has a few spots where the paint has stayed (mostly in chain armor) and any help here would be highly appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

::):

 

 

Egg Shen: Can see things no one else can see. Do things no one else can do.

Jack Burton: Real things?

Egg Shen: As real as Lo Pan!

Jack Burton: Hey, what more can a guy ask for?

Egg Shen: Oh, a six-demon bag!

Jack Burton: Terrific, a six-demon bag. Sensational. What's in it, Egg?

Egg Shen: Wind, fire, all that kind of thing!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

You know, until I actually looked, I thought we had a sticky on paint stripping. Perhaps I should compile one?

 

Are the minis (and bases) plastic or metal? Some strippers that work nicely on metal will soften or dissolve plastics. Try a search on this forum and you'll find many threads on the subject--everyone has his or her favorite method. (I like Winsor&Newton brush cleaner for metal, brake fluid for plastic, though I should find a non-toxic replacement some day. Pure acetone worked wonders on a metal fig that nothing else would strip, but wear gloves when using it.)

 

--Jen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think there used to be a thread somewhere. But the quick answer for metal miniatures is you can use a couple of choices. Some like Simple Green as its non toxic and biodegradable. Others have used Pinesol. I couldn't find Simple Green in my Grocery store or Walmart so I use Pinesol. If you submerge them overnight, you can usually just rinse and brush the paint away. I have done this for a few old Ral Partha miniatures. It worked nicely and then I disposed of the Pinesol. Or saved it for another day. You can do a Google search and find dozens of sites that have tutorials on removing paint from miniatures

 

.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yah, I must be a rare exception because with 5 different minis, all from different manufacturers, I had no luck with Pinesol. Zero. Even after more than a week of soaking, checking every couple of days, scubbing like mad, they were still half painted, black and greasy. Overnight in Simple Green and all 5 were clean. YMMV, but I won't try Pinesol again.

 

For plastic minis with model paints -- GW, RMS, RPP, old Partha and Polly S, etc. -- I use Simple Green and a bit of patience, hot water and an old toothbrush. I have not run into any old enamels, but my guess would be denatured alcohol (rubbing alcohol), acetone, paint thinner, mineral spirits or general purpose paint thinner/remover would do the trick.

 

I've not looked in Wal-Mart, but I get Simple Green at Meijer in the automotive section around the all-purpose cleaners. I'm sure many places like Advance, Auto Zone and other auto parts stores would have it, too. It's great for cleaning around the house, the car, all sorts of stuff. It's biodegradable, non-toxic and smells better than anything else I've tried. For stubborn spots on plastic, a second soak followed by picking around a bit with dental tools, sculpting tools, even toothpicks, depending on the detail holding the primer. It's never paint, just the primer.

 

For metal minis, Simple Green gets most of it. On stubborn details I may use an old paintbrush to give it a wash in W&N Brush Cleaner. That stuff's too expensive for me to use a whole bottle or soak minis in it -- not to mention I dislike the smell -- so a couple of brushloads and a little scrub with the toothbrush under hot water will usually finish the details.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yah, I must be a rare exception because with 5 different minis, all from different manufacturers, I had no luck with Pinesol. Zero. Even after more than a week of soaking, checking every couple of days, scubbing like mad, they were still half painted, black and greasy. Overnight in Simple Green and all 5 were clean. YMMV, but I won't try Pinesol again.

 

I wonder if it was the paints rather than the miniature. Pinesol worked for me on the old Ral Partha miniatures I had in a shoebox and I had used their paints and armor coating way back in the late eighties. I would prefer using the Simple Green myself so I will check around and see if I can find it in the automotive section as you have suggested.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow...thanks for the replies ::):

 

Yes, tried a toothbrush...suckers are still pretty well primer-ed....most of the paint is off though...so now it's just a matter of getting all the primer off...I think I might a tougher toothbrush and see if that helps.

 

They are all metal minis...most of which are discontinued by now I'm guessing....even these two...one from Ral Partha one from '89 that was done by Sandra Garrity and the other a dwarf of which I'm unsure of the sculptor:

 

DSC02677.jpg

 

Around how much does Simple Green run? I'll try looking around for it everywhere if it really helps as much as everyone says.

 

 

Thanks again ::D:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry for the hijack but...

 

Does anyone have experience with paint stripping and green stuff? Many of my early conversions are destined for the drink, but I'm a little worried about the seam filling and sculpted bits that were done with green stuff, squadron green putty, milliput, epoxy joints, CA joints, etc.

 

Anyone have experience regarding which methods don't eat putties and epoxies?

 

I'm pretty resigned to the fact that all my ground cover will come off because that's just held on by PVA glue, but resculpting rocks and scenery, or just finding a pile of bits at the bottom of the jar, would be a bad surprise.

 

Thanks

AWhang

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check the automotive section of your local big box store for Simple Green. (Big box = WalMart, Target, etc.).

 

I buy it in the larger jugs because I always have a jar sitting on the window sill waiting for the next mistake. And the guys from my painting group also dunk their minis in it.

 

And I got a useful electric toothbrush at my local dollar store.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm glad this thread came up. I've been looking around for stripper options, since I find brake fluid too harsh and the odor of Pine-Sol bothers me. I bought a bottle of Simple Green and then managed to spill it before I ever got to test it out. Now no one in my area seems to have it in stock.

 

I just purchased some W&N brush cleaner, though, so I'll have to give that a go. Does that worked on sealed minis, or only for stripping paint if you change your mind before you finish?

 

Does it make any difference what type of paint and/or sealer was used? I have some old minis I painted early in my painting career with craft store acrylics, but they're sealed with some kind of paint-on varnish I found that's very glossy and not water-based (I think).

 

My fiancee also has some old minis that were painted with Testor's enamels. Will those come off in Pine-Sol or Simple Green, or do we need something stronger?

 

PS: Ladystorm, that link isn't working for me. I get a "file not found" error.

PPS: Never mind, I see Enchantra pinned it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Knighthart and Sniffles, you both bring up good points that I think need further study: sealers. I just don't recall much in 'paint removal' threads, here or elsewhere, pinned or otherwise, that really, directly address the removal of sealers. The topics are all focused on paint removal, and sometimes get rather heated about what works, what doesn't, what's environmentally and/or personally safe, etc.

 

As an almost invisible first line of defence on a mini vs. handling, ruboff or chemicals, a sealer could very well be the reason why one agent works great for some folks, but not for others. Taking this one step further, it could also be the primer used, being bonded to metal and paint, almost impervious to one chemical, but not to another.

 

In my own experience with Pine-Sol, I know the minis were sealed, but with what I couldn't say for sure. I also know they were primed before painting, but again...unknown substance. At a guess, I would say given the age of the minis & the paint job, the primer, paints & sealers I had at the time, it was probably Armory spray white primer, Ral Partha & Polly S paints, maybe some others, and likely Floquil Figure Flat or Armory matte sealer to top it off. Maybe that's what happened, maybe Pine-Sol was not formulated to dissolve those bonds and it only sort of got through the top coat, sludging up the paint & primer underneath. Maybe Simple Green just happens to be the magic bullet formula to cut through to the bare metal.

 

On the other hand, Simple Green may not work on a mini that has been sealed by dipping into Future or been given multiple coats of Min-Wax Polyurethane or varnish. Scientific experiment and excessive documentation, anyone?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...