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Vagabond
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Since warlord figs are based on slotta bases (for the minis game) are there any plans to make all reaper figs slotta base?  I'm going out on a limb and guessing that most of us use our nicely painted minis to game with also.  It sure would be nice if there were all standardized to fit in those 1" squares.
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Personally I like using the round 25mm bases as this allows the mini to actually face in any direction within the 1" squares.  Does anyone know what the best way of taking off all the extra basing on the reaper minis?  Just leaving the feet so I can glue them on round bases?
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In my gaming group, I am by far the mini addict.  When my DM buys figs, they are always because he does NOT have to assemble them or use any glue, etc.  So, he always ends up buying the green-cardstock Reapers that do not even have separate bases.

 

I know a lot of gamers that are like this.  They know they don't have the desire, or the time and tools it takes to put together even the slotted bases.  [Hint: they are the same people that rarely paint their minis]

 

When I was starting, pinning a mini seemed like a big step.  Frankly, I still think it can be tricky.  I still worry a lot about getting the mold lines perfectly smooth in all those hard to reach places, and what kind of base material I want to use.

 

There are many people that want to skip over all that and JUST PLAY.  But they still need a mini for their character.  Answer:  buy a Reaper for $3, break off the large flash with a fingernail, and then there you are on the battlemat.

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On the round bases, I agree completely, but for the most part I don't have a problem with small square bases.  It's the large monster-sized square bases that can feel awkward.

 

Also, lately most of my Warlords have been coming with decorative bases, and some with plain bases.  I have to say that not all the figs fit well with those decorative bases.  Too much material on either the fig or the base is close enough that the fig cannot seat properly, even if you turn the base around to try to make it fit.  I think they should check this before they put in a decorative base.

 

In my particular case, I had the cleric dwarf (the one with the anvil thing on his back), not be able to fit his decorative base (the one with the snake).  Buying another package of the same dwarf fig yielded a plain base which worked fine.

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Personally I like using the round 25mm bases as this allows the mini to actually face in any direction within the 1" squares.  Does anyone know what the best way of taking off all the extra basing on the reaper minis?  Just leaving the feet so I can glue them on round bases?

I use the round ones as well. Also, I glue my minis directly to the round base and form puddy around the metal base to make it look like one piece.

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Personally I like using the round 25mm bases as this allows the mini to actually face in any direction within the 1" squares.  Does anyone know what the best way of taking off all the extra basing on the reaper minis?  Just leaving the feet so I can glue them on round bases?
Does anyone know what the best way of taking off all the extra basing on the reaper minis?  Just leaving the feet so I can glue them on round bases?

 

I use a pair of Craftsman cutters to remove most of the base, then use a pair of GW Sidecutters to remove what is left close to, and under, the feet. Works well for me, but I do tend to go through cutters rather quickly (hence using Craftsman for the gross cuts :D ).

The Craftsman ones are "low" quality, break often, but are free to replace :laugh: , but have a bevel on both sides :( .

The GW are "decent" quality, have only one bevel, but are a tad pricey.

If anyone knows of higher quality and/or cheaper sidecutters (flush) than GW's, I would appreciate it.

 

 Another option I have heard of is using a Dremel tool to cut the base just below the surface, then using a non-sterile surgical scalpel to finish the job.

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If anyone knows of higher quality and/or cheaper sidecutters (flush) than GW's, I would appreciate it.

Toenail  clippers.  They even come in convex, concave, and straight blades.

 

If you need side cutters for the hard-to-reach spots, most model kit suppliers sell them for less than GW.

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