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Evilbob
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I've known people who use Apple Barrel and Delta Ceramcoat (which I don't recommend because of the higher grain content of the paint)

 

Ohhhh BURRRRN!!

 

Okay, so I use them, but I DO thin them down a lot, usually quite carefully. I have used so many different paints and am pretty good at getting them to adapt to what I want. I think I will start another thread so as to not take this one too far away from where it's at :D

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I've known people who use Apple Barrel and Delta Ceramcoat (which I don't recommend because of the higher grain content of the paint)

 

Ohhhh BURRRRN!!

 

Okay, so I use them, but I DO thin them down a lot, usually quite carefully. I have used so many different paints and am pretty good at getting them to adapt to what I want. I think I will start another thread so as to not take this one too far away from where it's at :D

 

 

Heh, it's quite alright. I even used some at one point. The biggest problem is the grain size of the pigment is much larger than what is used in miniature paints, but I completely understand the cheapness factor.

 

And you'd be amazed at how thin you can bring RMS down without it breaking up too badly. I give kudos to Anne for formulating a paint from a painters point of view. When I tried RMS, after using the AB, Delta, and Reaper Pro Paints, I decided I'll never go back. They're smoother than 15 year old scotch. :wub:

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pig, but also dragon or unicorn! :blush: (I assumed the corium would still logically exist)

 

 

When you say corium, do you mean chromium? If so, then no, chromium tanning did not exist in Midieval times. You can do what you like in your fantasy world, but then you would have to explain why they were metallurgically more advanced than Earth was during the same period, and if your world makes sense, it starts sliding away from anything like the Middle Ages pretty quickly.

 

What was the topic? Oh, yeah, purple is hard. There are different shades of purple - reddish, bluish, pinkish, and darkening it can be tough. I believe this makes it harder than other colors.

 

And highlighting to white - I agree, the judges seem to love very bright minis, but as you can tell I prefer realism, and highlighting with white isn't a big part of my style.

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When you say corium, do you mean chromium? ...
Ahh...it makes more sense now! I had assumed... and we all know what happens when one will "assume". :down:

 

Have you ever cut a leather belt? Have you ever worn a hole in a leather boot or shoe? Or a baseball mitt? The corium layer is below the colored grain, or the dyed "skin". It is the "meat" of the leather. It looks more like fibrous wood, rather than the black or brown dyed outer layers. ::):

 

 

Okay, so I use them, but I DO thin them down a lot, usually quite carefully.
They're awesome, especially when they're at 44 cents a bottle. ^_^

There's a website I've seen that has some very good and solid work done with nothing but craft paints on minis. ::o:

This guy has a style all his own! ::o:

rep_dwarfpriest.jpgrep_wraith1.jpgrep_elise.jpg

By judging standards, he would probably be considered a fauvist, but I've watched him for years and to me he only gets better! You can find it at www.thepaintshopofhorrors.com.

 

I bet this guy can paint with housepaint and catapult and still do jaw-dropping work! :blink:

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I'm painting a pretty sweet "Mysterio" mini (old Spiderman villain) and he has a purple cloak on which the sculpt is rather shallow and soft, but the way it drapes, it looks like it should appear as rich velour. I swear I have painted and highlighted and washed it a dozen times- I keep getting it nearly "right", then somehow slightly over-doing it and having to go all the way back to the beginning

 

If you're going for a true velvet or velour look--if you figure it out, let me know how, ok? ::P: Velvet is hard to render on flat surfaces, and I've never seen anyone manage it convincingly on a miniature. Velvet is made of millions of threads standing on end. It absorbs light where other fabrics reflect it. You see deep, dense color when the threads are pointing at you. You get highlights only where the threads run at right angles to the viewer.

 

http://jssgallery.org/Paintings/Countess_of_Lathom.htm

 

Look at the sleeve here in particular.

post-750-1184300173.jpg

 

Best bet is probably to just keep the highlights concentrated on top surfaces, but sort of 'fuzzy'. Make sure your sealer is dead flat, too.

 

--Jen

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Slopartist- My stuff is kind of reminiscent of that stuff- overall I am pretty happy with the results I get, but I do think I will check out these Reaper paints soon- once I get re-acquianted with my paints, that is- I have been out of the loop for a few months and everytime I get that far behind it takes me a few days to get "back on the horse". I figure there's certain colours which I would be better off with a super fine-grain pigment, as some colours give me more trouble than others. Thanks for posting that link, that's some interesting technique there

 

Paintrix- I know, velvet would almost be easier to duplicate woth some kind of ultrta-fine flocking or something, especially on a mini like the one in question- the overall outline of the cape/cloak is fine, but it is seriously almost totally flat, with no variation in the depth of the furrows along their length- I'm not even concerned about what kind of material it looks like once done, I just want it to look alright, and this thread has actually helped me re-think my strategy so far as getting maximum depth from minimum "real" depth

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Paintrix- the overall outline of the cape/cloak is fine, but it is seriously almost totally flat, with no variation in the depth of the furrows along their length- I'm not even concerned about what kind of material it looks like once done, I just want it to look alright, and this thread has actually helped me re-think my strategy so far as getting maximum depth from minimum "real" depth

 

Areas like that cape...ah, that's when freehand is a lifesaver. Covers so many sins. (Except when there's a certain color or design scheme, like your model, of course.)

 

--Jen

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Well I took a paint Hiatus due to illness and camping (and was ill the whole time I was camping too, but by golly I was going to go). So now I'm back and ready to finish this (insert not so nice name here) mini up, and move on to some colors I know I can get to white, like, well whites. But I think I know what I'm gunna, do, now I just gotta do it. after I clean out the fridge and get the new swamp cooler upstairs to cool it off up here, yesh!

 

Thanks for all the tips and support, and even the vaguely off topic bits have been enlightening. I'll post up once I get it done to a point of no more futzing.

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Thanks for all the tips and support, and even the vaguely off topic bits have been enlightening. I'll post up once I get it done to a point of no more futzing.

 

I look forward to seeing the finished piece too. Will you be bringing it to Gen Con? I've been interested in seeing how this turns out. I read your comments about wanting to upgrade your painting to competition level. I'm in the same boat, so I'm excited to see how you do.

 

I'm also looking forward to meeting you in person at Gen Con.

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Lucky you that the tumble didn't do any serious damage. The last mini that fell over through my fault landed on a sleeping Evil One, so was unscathed (and miraculously, so was I).

 

I've looked at this mini a couple of times now and I admire your efforts to take the highlights so far up. I couldn't do it, I know that for a fact. Not because I wouldn't try (I'm crazy enough for checkerboards after all), but because my every instinct would be to glaze the brightness back down. It's just not for me, I guess.

 

All but one of the highlights flow neatly from midtone to bright highlight, and the one I'm feeling sticks out is on the front, center, lower half of the figure, just in from the sash. It looks a little too abrupt..

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Lookin really fine, you're almost at that "might not wanna touch it much more or you'll have to do the whole thing over" stage

 

Excellent, super-subtle shading on that bit- I agree with Helltown, I can't see myself ppulling that off anywhere near that smoothly, it just seems so "foreign"

Can't wait to see heem finished, keep up the good work!!

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