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Checkerboarded Knight

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Hey VV,


This WIP's for you. Checkerboard heraldry on Sir Roland the Grey (DHL 02441), with a bit of step-by-step but not as pretty as I'd hoped. I'll be uploading pictures and steps as I go, but I've tickets to the latest Harry Potter flick at 10 and still haven't had dinner so... don't expect me to get far.


Here are my implements of destruction:


A 00 brush or smaller (your choice, I'm using W&N University Series 233 size 00 because I like 'em and they're snappy enough for fine, straight(ish) lines)

GW Golden Yellow (my base color for all yellows, golds, and yellow metallics)

GW Sunburst Yellow

RMS Clear Yellow

GW Terracotta (my base color for GW Reds)

GW Blood Red

RMS Clear Red

RMS Brush-on Primer (henceforth referred to as MCF = Mini Correction Fluid)


This list will no doubt change as I progress towards completion, highlights, shadows, and other fun will require more colors, different brushes, and less MCF.


Things to remember:

  • You want high contrast squares so choose your colors accordingly, I chose yellow and red because I want my knight to be vibrant
  • A flat basecoat of white is helpful as you'll be doing most of the preliminary work in the lighter of the two colors.
  • My way is definately not the only (or very best way) to make a checkerboard pattern on a mini.

Prep and prime your victim as normal (this particular victim is a spare, so not very well cleaned up) and take care of any basecoats that might mess up your spiffy checkerboard by being the absolute wrong color to have mix with say... GW Golden Yellow! I coated the belts and strappings with a light coat of Beastial Brown on my fig. Now that that's knocked out, on to the show:


Step 1: Find the Flow


The first thing you want to do is figure out the flow of the item you'll be checkerboarding, basically how will the squares be affected by the draping of the garment, curves/edges of a object, etc.. I find it easiest if I draw the vertical axis lines to discover this. To do so, I use my GW Golden Yellow, thinned to somewhere between basecoat and highlight in opacity, enough to see the line but clear enough that I can paint over it with Terracotta and still keep the Terracotta's color value. Here be the picture:




Okay... starving... must find food, more pictures can wait. Please feel free to ask lotsa questions while I locate dinner, I likes questions ::): Makes me feel educated n' stuff.

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I was not all too thrilled with the new Harry Potter, they tried to cram too much into feature film length.


Alrighty then, I've got my pen and paper out and I'm ready to take notes.

And on a side note, that Knight has a rather silly hat.

I heard he was a brickhead (drum roll).









My family is known for bad puns.

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Okay, before I fled to Applebee's and my movie I progressed a bit further along on my hack job of checkerboard... The second stage of evolution for a checkerboard in photos:


Step 2: Defining the squares




You'll notice in the left hand image, that I've outlined all the squares of my checkerboard with Terracotta. The consistency of the paint was slightly thicker than the Golden Yellow, allowing me to effectively cover the guidelines I'd drawn to mark the flow of fabric. Where my brush control didn't fail me, you'll notice that the squares touch only at the corners and only enough that the yellow will also be able to meet. If you should happen to have a slip, a wet brush can correct the problem, but it's better to employ a little thinned MCF at this stage as a dark color is harder to correct with a light color than the reverse.


Placing the squares is the first time I actually address the horizontal axis of the miniature, when defining the square you're going to paint to the inside of one guideline and over the other consistently. So if you decide to paint inside the left guide and over the right guide, _always_ paint to the inside of the left and over the right. The horizontal lines are defined rather simply by allowing your brush tip to ride the miniature, a slight twist of the mini as woul would for a a straight decorative line.


You might ask why I didn't just define all the squares with the Golden Yellow and just go back and fill in with Terracotta. The short answer is the contrast between the light guidelines and the dark squares is easier for me to see (and to show everyone) than it is to try and paint strictly in yellow.


The right hand image shows the second half of this stage, which is to begin filling in your spiffy new squares. Just remember to continue to use thinned paints and build to a solid basecoat rather than try to get everything in one coat. A thin coat is easier to correct than a thick one. Alternate between the two colors building up to a solid coat.


If you're not using undercoat colors (like me) this is where to slap on the brakes for messing with the checkerboard and seal the mini with dullcote or RMS Brush-On Sealer. A solid coat of your midtone will do just nicely while you go back to pick out the detail bits. For those who undercoat, now's the time to apply midtone and preliminary darkline so keep the undercoat paint wells happy (water, dry retardant, matte additives, gunk... just keep 'em wet) and get cracking on the midtone application and then seal the mini once you're done with midtone.


This is also my stopping point for tonight.


Questions? Comments? Concerns? Did I make sense at all?

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:blush: I forgot my camera this morning when I left the house, so there won't be a photo update today. The Evil Ones had vet appointments this morning causing me to have to haul my carcass out of bed at an obscene hour and chase them around the house until they were both caught, crated, and loaded onto the wagon.


I'm taking care of the trim pieces and the rest of his robe today, so hopefully tomorrow it'll be back to the checkers.

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I've taken to calling him Sir Chubby the Checkered and with all the atrocious mold lines on him, he's going to be well painted but not well prepped.


Anyway... more photos tomorrow, tonight he's getting dullcote (which hopefully will do it's job rather than high gloss it).

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Well, I took some photos of Sir Chubby when I got home last night. I've evened out the squares a bit, and started work on the shield and the odd tower he has on his helm. Today I'll be applying metallics, darklining the entire figure, and hopefully able to call the sword belt complete.


Here's where he's at currently after last night's dullcote:




As you can see, I need to fix his front a bit, the red got a little out of hand, tho it doesn't look quite as bad in person.... starting to understand why people don't like to do WIPs as much as the Show-Offs. The camera is downright mean sometimes.

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...the odd tower he has on his helm.


You don't know how badly I want a hat like that.


On another note, yes, the camera can be quite cruel.

I am always mildly happy with my paint jobs, then I take a pic to put on our wargaming website.

The blown up version is always terrifying.

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I've got two exchange minis on my plate right now, the summer exchange isn't even going to be thought about until after the weekend and the other exchange is a private one and... well... I've a general idea of what I want to paint it's a matter of finding the right mini.


My lil' shelf of shame is set to collapse any day now, I can feel it... so many unpainted minis...


Anyway... some progress today, you tell me what I managed to accomplish because it feels like a whole lotta nothin'



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