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NMM Green?


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I'm working on some green armor for an elf which is just green liner and linen white, with pure white hotspots. This is a pic of the rough beginning stages, just on his knee.

 

LordColdsteal has also recently done some green armor, I'm sure he'll be along in a few minutes to share his recipe.

 

Dani3.jpg

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What is it for?

 

Modern Military Tank Track?

Fantasy Undead Weapon?

A Very Shiny Pickle?

 

The green can be green, yellow-green, or even blue green, depending on the subject. ::):

 

Specificly armor, but weapon would ba a nice touch especially on an anti-paladin with a vile blade.

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Back when I was doing it for a pay check, we used to use cubic mapping to handle all of the NMM type stuff I did in CG. Same principles apply here as did there, just applied a bit differently. The big thing in making NMM work IMO is deciding on the environment that will be providing the reflections and going from there. More often than not the effect is ruined for me because the hotspots and reflections don't make sense with any form of lighting scheme. You have stuff coming from all different angles, and things are shining that probably shouldn't be.

 

Anywho, for me...I pick my color. Than I pick the color of the object it will be reflecting (sky, angry dragon's breath, torch light...). Once I have those two I figure out how the light would fall on the object from reflected source. With metals, I tend to go a bit heavier with the source color since they tend to be shinier (not always though). For other things I like to use a bit more of the base color. Now fiddle with it till it looks right.

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Just for the record, NMM isn't in the colors you use, but where your highlights and shadows are placed. You can use any color green you like. ::):

 

--Anne

 

OK, but for the highlights and shadows would you stay in the triad or jump to say a yellow to a white for your highlight?

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Just for the record, NMM isn't in the colors you use, but where your highlights and shadows are placed. You can use any color green you like. ::):

 

--Anne

 

OK, but for the highlights and shadows would you stay in the triad or jump to say a yellow to a white for your highlight?

 

NMM will always go to pure white--the brightest white you can get--to simulate the hotspot of reflected light. How dark you go, on the other hand, varies with the style--you'll notice that Rackham often doesn't go very dark on their NMM for Confrontation, but a lot of Reaper painters will take the NMM shadows quite dark, almost black.

 

You could go yellow and then highlight the yellow with pure white, if you're using a green that has more yellow in it. ::):

 

--Anne

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Just for the record, NMM isn't in the colors you use, but where your highlights and shadows are placed. You can use any color green you like. ::):

 

--Anne

 

OK, but for the highlights and shadows would you stay in the triad or jump to say a yellow to a white for your highlight?

 

NMM will always go to pure white--the brightest white you can get--to simulate the hotspot of reflected light. How dark you go, on the other hand, varies with the style--you'll notice that Rackham often doesn't go very dark on their NMM for Confrontation, but a lot of Reaper painters will take the NMM shadows quite dark, almost black.

 

You could go yellow and then highlight the yellow with pure white, if you're using a green that has more yellow in it. ::):

 

--Anne

 

Thanks Anne!!

 

:devil:

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A green mix that I use for Elves starts with Pine Green or Green Liner. The next part is Field Green, with Moth Green for highlights. I guess for NMM you'd continue highlighting up to white for the hot-spots.

 

I know a neon green sounds a bit odd but with the darker, earthier tones mixed in it actually comes out rather nice.

 

Just a question, maybe Anne could answer this. If the armor were enameled or annealed (probably spelling that wrong), would it be less reflective, and there for have few if any hot spots?

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