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Just starting to horde my painting supplies


orcsoul
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So what do you do, just rubberband the bottle onto the massager?

 

I hadn't thought of that. Hmm, that might work...

 

Currently, I just lightly hold one end of the bottle (sort of like a pivot point) while the other end bounces and shakes against the massager. Does shake my hand a bit, but it's fine for the 30 or so seconds that I shake with the massager.

 

Ron

 

PS: Of course, with the Reaper MSPs, I just manually shake for a 5-15 seconds. I still generally like the Derivan MiNiS, particularly the very matte nature of the paints, but they're a bit tricker to use. I've painted one mini almost completely with the Derivan MiNiS, and they're the paint that I let my 4 year old son use when he paints (given they come in a much bigger bottle, I don't mind him using them). I think that I'll still mostly stick to the MSPs.

 

Methinks I sense a thread-jack coming...

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Just make sure that your aquarium rocks are really inert. I used to do saltwater aquariums and there used to be some that react adversely to salt corrosion, which usually means that minerals are present, and some of those minerals do not like paint. ::): If the aquarium rocks you buy are ok for saltwater, you should be fine!

 

--Anne

 

I've been an aquarist for years, both salt & fresh. I'm willing to bet that salt water is MUCH more corrosive than paint! Anyway, aquarium rocks are just lumpy glass beads.

 

I've had aquarium rocks in my VGC for a good 3 years now, with no noticeable affect, and I put them in everything except ink.

 

Should I ask why you didn't use a coral bottom for salt?

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I did use coral. It was reading every book I could get on saltwater that told me that some aquarium gravels aren't good for it. ::):

 

I didn't realize you were talking glass beads--when you said gravel I thought rocks. ::):

 

--Anne

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Hey, Orcsoul, I had one last bit of advice: expect change. What you like to use will change as your skill level increases. For instance, when I first started using sables I bought a WNS7 3/0 mini. I had been trying to paint details with those gods-aweful tiny synthetic brushes. The bush out after one or two minis, and then they are useless. At the time, the 3/0 mini was to coolest thing since sliced bread.

 

The great thing about WNS7 is that the hair length is kind of short. It's especially true for the miniature brushes, but still somewhat for the regular ones. That with the high quality hair gives a very springy, responsive brush that is easy to control. It can help you a lot if your brush control leaves a bit to be desired.

 

Now I'm finding I like brushes with a bit longer hair length. I've got much better brush control than I did back in the day, so I don't need the brush to be quite so tight. It is still better to have high-quality hair with lots of spring. If it is a little longer, I've got more room for my brush load without having paint work its way into the ferrule.

 

So keep in mind that a brush you love today may hardly get used in a couple of years. You may love WNS 7 miniature brushes now, but fine you like Raphaels better in the future.

 

When I started, Reaper Pro Paints were the coolest thing I'd ever seen, especially the flesh tones. I started using tube acrylics which I would thin to a good consistency for models. It was wonderful to have a paint with a consistency that worked much better on models right out of the pot.

 

Later I discovered Vallejo Model Color and Reaper Master Series after that. Those are my favorite paints now, along with additives and distilled water to thin them out.

 

So the only constant with your painting is going to be change. Enjoy it and enjoy the experience.

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Yup Yup I kind of assumed that as my skills developed my preferences would change.. though I am a pretty stubborn individual it's entirely possible I may just choose to stick with what I know instead of branching out, lol

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Got one last question... how do i figger out which paint colors I'm going to need?

 

I have the conversions from GW colors to Reaper colors from one of the other threads here... so I know which reaper colors to get... but I'm just not sure where to start with regards to picking said colors... for some background the furthest I've gotten is that I'm gonna be painting some space marines and tyranids from the wh40k universe... beyond that I'm kinda clueless for which colors I'm going to need.

 

I've made some guesses that I'll be wanting/needing the Ultramarine triad, pure black/white, clear brights 1 and 2 (?), additives 1 and 2, and ?

 

Obviously i'm no good at eyeing colors at present, not to mention my monitor is so old it doesn't reflect accurate color at all. :P

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You could always ask at your FLGS to see a copy of Casketworks if they don't have any copies to give you. There's a full color listing of all the triads and additives so you can choose your color schemes that way. Nobody said you have to paint them like they are on the box ::):

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You really might want to consider picking up the first three Learn to Paint kits. There is some overlap between the kits, but they give a great selection of paints at a very good value (if you don't have any MSPs):

 

LPTK-1 Armor and Fur

 

-9003 Blood Red

-9014 Grass Green

-9017 True Blue

-9136 Walnut Brown

-9029 Earth Brown

-9047 Fair Skin

-9039 Pure White

-9037 Pure Black

-9054 Polished Silver

 

LTPK-2 Skin and Cloth

-9135 Carnage Red

-9008 Sun Yellow

-9011 Leaf Green

-9055 Breonne Blue

-9110 Oiled Leather

-9044 Tanned Skin

-9049 Ancient Bronze

-9037 Pure Black

-9061 Linen White

 

LTPK-3 Non-Metallic Metal

 

-9070 Mahogany Brown

-9074 Palomino Gold

-9083 Highlands Moss

-9057 Ashen Blue

-9110 Oiled Leather

-9038 Rainy Grey

-9139 Blackened Brown

-9037 Pure Black

-9039 Pure White

 

 

There have also been several "what paints do I get" or "favorite MSP" threads in the last few months. You might step back through the threads here to take a look.

 

Ron

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Hmm, went looking at the duplicolor sandable primers online at some of the auto parts chains that carry their product, and seems there's two versions of the duplicolor sandable primer... a 'regular' version and a 'hot rod' version.. any experience between the two? I've no idea what the differences are, if any.. they're the same price, and appear to be same packaging, but have different model/part numbers, and they're both black.

 

Nevermind.. further research discovered they were different colors.. just that my monitors poor ability to discern colors made them both appear to be black.

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I didn't know there was a hot rod version of Duplicolor, so my guess is you want the regular stuff.

 

On paint colors: figure out what color themes you want for the `nids and spam-in-a-can and buy those. You will also want some colors that are good for making your shadows and highlights. The Reaper Liner colors are great for this. For instance, if you are going for blue (ultramarine) Space Marines, you're going to want Liner Blue and Ghost White to help you with Shadows and Highlights. Get a blue triad you like and you're set. The Cyan blue set might be good for Space Marines.

 

You're going to want paints for other stuff than the 40K pieces. For that, check the existing threads on "must haves". As far as paint additives are concerned, a person could write a whole thread just on that. Since you are just getting started, make it easy on yourself. Get the pre-mixed additives from Reaper. There are two triads that include additives, brush on sealer and two colors of brush on primer, white and black. That might not be the least expensive way to get started, but it's the easiest with the least guess work. Get some droppers and distilled water.

 

One last bit of advice on colors: look in your closet. Look around your house. You have an internal color sense; the colors that you like and that you surround yourself with. Those are the colors you are likely to use on models you paint "for fun". Buy colors that are like the ones you favor and you'll be happy with them.

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Hmm, went looking at the duplicolor sandable primers online at some of the auto parts chains that carry their product, and seems there's two versions of the duplicolor sandable primer... a 'regular' version and a 'hot rod' version.. any experience between the two? I've no idea what the differences are, if any.. they're the same price, and appear to be same packaging, but have different model/part numbers, and they're both black.

 

Nevermind.. further research discovered they were different colors.. just that my monitors poor ability to discern colors made them both appear to be black.

 

I didn't check to see if this had already been posted, but there are 2 versions of Duplicolor Sandable primer. One is specifically made to be a gap-filling primer (and labelled as such). You will want to avoid that one.

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Hmm... i haven't found anything that indicates which this is.. any chance you can post the duplicolor model numbers for the right sandable primers? Black and white?

 

From the Dulpicolor website (colors - http://www.duplicolor.com/products/colors/primer.html )

 

the FP 101 and FP 102 (and probably the self-etching DAP 1690) are the ones to avoid.

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