Separating pieces from "used" plastic minis...

[Dane]

Is there any way to unfuse plastic models that have been glued together? I'm thinking about buying some used minis, but would want to strip and them repaint them, but in doing so, I think I'd want to paint the separate pieces unassembled. Is that possible?

[Mengu]

If they used the right kind of glue for assembly, then no, it will not be possible to disassemble them, since the platic glue literally melts the pieces together.

 

However it may be possible to otherwise cut the offending piece close to the joint, and reattach it if needed, since plastic is fairly easy to work with, but you may have to do a bit of greenstuff work, depending on the joint.

[Dane]

That's what I figured. Maybe I'll aim for one of the auctions where the seller states that "pieces fell off in storage or transport." hehe

[Arkblade]

I use the Z-7 Debonder from Zap-A-Gap.

 

 

[Cerridwyn1st]

Debonder works if the pieces are attached with Superglue. With plastic figures, some glues littlerally "melt" the pieces together, fusing them. The bond is actually stronger than the plastic around it. If the piece breaks, it will break on the plastic, not on the join.

 

Of course, you could always try some debonder and see if it works. If it does, the pieces were assembled with a glue that did not fuse them. If not, well, you're stuck

[VelveteenRabbit]

Just ask people what they used to put them together. I've found that a ridiculous number of people use Super Glue rather than Plastic Cement. It's weird how often I've tried to tell people that Plastic Cement is cheaper, easier to use and does a better job only to hear that they'd rather use Super Glue...

[TragicNut]

Just ask people what they used to put them together. I've found that a ridiculous number of people use Super Glue rather than Plastic Cement. It's weird how often I've tried to tell people that Plastic Cement is cheaper, easier to use and does a better job only to hear that they'd rather use Super Glue...

 

Which of course works on metal-plastic joints too... ;)

[Joe Kutz]

Some debonders will work as a solvent glue to certain plastics...so be sure to test on something like a bit of sprue first.

[warlordgarou]

Just ask people what they used to put them together. I've found that a ridiculous number of people use Super Glue rather than Plastic Cement. It's weird how often I've tried to tell people that Plastic Cement is cheaper, easier to use and does a better job only to hear that they'd rather use Super Glue...

I've actually come across some plastic figs which could not be assembled with plastic cements. Or at least, any plastic cement that I could get my hands on. . . .

 

(Among them were the Warzone models that were put out with the 2nd ed box set. I never could get those guys together with anything other than superglue.)

[Joe Kutz]

Plumbers PVC cement - if they are the ones I am thinking of. Bit of primer...or sand paper to scuff up the joint and remove the oxidization on the surface (it tends not to glue up well).

 

There is a plastic cement that work for almost every plastic out there (some like PTFE are ridiculous to work with though) - whenever possible, I'll use a solvent adhesive as opposed to something like epoxy or CA for gluing plastics. No need to worry about the joint ever failing.

[Dane]

For my upcoming re-assembly of refurbished GW Marines, I picked up some Testors Plastic Cement, instead of superglue. I'll still be reinforcing with pins made from lengths of safety pins, but I don't want these guys to ever come apart. I also need to get some toothpicks for applying the plastic cement, as I remember how imprecise the stuff was back in my model airplane building days.

 

On a side note, I found it funny that the citrus-scented, non-toxic "blue tube" cost far more (double?) than the whiffy, toxic, red tube. I got the red tube, as I don't see myself inhaling the stuff for longer than it takes to dab and press.