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Washes and Drybrushing are EVIL!


sam500
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Did I stumble into the Privateer forum again?... <_<

 

I stopped using washes for years because of the problems you describe. Never could get them to work right. I started using them again after finding a method that corrected the problems. Now, I use roughly half paint and half brush-on sealer (or Vallejo matte varnish), and dilute that mix with water to wash consistency. It settles nicely, and leaves a light, even glaze of color on the raised areas. As long as I take that color shift into account, I don't have to re-base-coat after washing. On large flat areas, of course, I'll still apply paint more selectively (layers and glazes, even wet-blends) for shadows, but for deep relief or textures, washes are often my first choice for shading.

 

The layering and edging you describe are some of the first techniques I (and lots of other instructors) suggest to people who come into painting via tabletop and want to move on beyond the basecoat-wash-drybrush method. They'll open up a lot of possibilities in your painting, but as you master more techniques, you'll probably find yourself experimenting with discarded methods, too. Always something to be learned from revisiting the basics.

 

--Jen

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Enchantra, your technique of not slapping the wash on but guiding it seems much more layering than washing to me--how does it differ from layering?

 

I use guiding in a loose definition of the term. I use the brush to push it where I want it to go instead of slapping it all over the mini. The paint is thinned far more than I'd ever thin it for layering.

 

That sounds more like a glaze actually . . . maybe it's in between a glaze and a wash? A waze? Or how abut a Glash?

 

It's a lot thinner than a glaze.

 

Here's what I use: one drop paint, two drop or three drops flow improver depending on paint type, and about 5-8 drops of water depending on paint type. I mix that all up. I get just enough into my brush to push it where I want it. It's got enough flow improver in it that it doesn't sit on the high areas all that much and leaves the basecoat color fairly intact on the raised portions. So Yes it's a wash, I just like to push it around with my brush so it settles into all the areas I wish it to and I'm not using as much of it as if I glopped it on.

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>>>

In fact, I think they tend to waste time even on gaming paint jobs, unless you paint over-bright to start and the wash is your final step to bring everything back down and together. I've had more success with a quick layered shading technique on gaming pieces, but that does need a little extra brush control.

>>>

 

That would be a useful tutorial thread. I do the over-light technique but often the wash doesn't work right. Some brands/colors as basecoats seem to be more absorbant than others.

 

I have another 100 figures to do...

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I use guiding in a loose definition of the term. I use the brush to push it where I want it to go instead of slapping it all over the mini. The paint is thinned far more than I'd ever thin it for layering.

 

I took a class with Jeremie Bonamont, a French painter, and this is the technique he taught us. The minis he brought with him were unbelievable. You might want to check out his site- http://www.jeremiebt.com/.

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I use guiding in a loose definition of the term. I use the brush to push it where I want it to go instead of slapping it all over the mini. The paint is thinned far more than I'd ever thin it for layering.

 

I took a class with Jeremie Bonamont, a French painter, and this is the technique he taught us. The minis he brought with him were unbelievable. You might want to check out his site- http://www.jeremiebt.com/.

 

Thank you! I knew I wasn't losing my mind!

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