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Removing bases


gloria_invictus
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This is one of those threads that keep popping up.

 

The general concensus seems to be 'get an adjustable-speed Dremel tool, and carefully grind the base off'.

 

You'll most like sacrifice a few minis to do it, but once you've the practice, you should be fine.

 

--And welcome aboard, G-I.

 

--lstormhammer, SPQR

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I had good luck removing one with a jeweler's saw. It didn't take too long and the cut was very thin. Much better than with an x-acto knife or razor saw.  I will be using the saw on future conversions.

They aren't too expensive either.  I got one from a jewelry supply company on eBay for about $12.

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Having removed several thousand bases (decades of wargaming), I still maintain that the best all-around tool (for speed, accuracy, safety, low damage to minis) is a pair of toenail clippers.

 

Start by clipping a line parallel to the outside of the foot.  Next, clip a line from toe-to-toe and heel-to-heel.  third, clip along the inside of the foot.  Last, clip the excess from underneath the foot.

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an inexpensive dremel with the attatchable metal sand wheel.  put it on a low speed and you can watch as it comes away and can stop before it starts digging into the feet.  For a normal Broccoli base it takes me about 15 to 25 minutes.
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I'm kind of fond of a jewlers saw used to cut a 'v' in parallel with the toes to heel.  I then use the dremel tool @ 10000 rpm with a metal rasp to remove the excess metal.  Then file the remained flush with a jewlers file, and pin the foot to a plastic base (round for me!)  Fill in any extra slots/holes/etc. with wood filler and away you go!
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  • Reaper User

Just wondering if anyone has any good advice on how to cleanly remove the "broccoli" bases from the Dark Heaven mini's. I want to mount my mini's on square plastic bases.

Most hobby shops have a spiffy tool that's perfect for the job. I found mine in the train section but I've also seen `em in the tool isle. The tool is called a Xuro-Shear and costs about $12.00 American. Basically it's a combonation of a pair of pliers and nail trimmers. The clippers make a precise cut that's flush and they'll cut though just about anything pewter, plastic, even thin steel rod.

 

As for instructions:

 

Once you've removed most of the offending base just leave the remaining base metal directly under the mini's feet.

 

Carefully cut the remaining bits of metal into plugs. You'll have to be very careful to under cut the metal directly under the mini's feet to cut the plugs down to size.

 

Once you have the plugs you're ready to remount the mini onto an official regulation size RMI base. The easiest method I've found is to fill the base with putty. I prefer using Kneadatite but others swear by Milliput. Sculpt an appropriate surface onto/into the base. I like to experiment so I do all kinds of customizing like adding ballast and odd shapes and surfaces into the putty for an unusual texture. I've even been known to sculpt stairs, urns, what have you directly into the putty. Like cobblestones? Go ahead, sculpt away!

 

Before the putty is completely hard position the mini above the base and press down so the plugs under the mini's feet make indentations. Carefully remove the mini and allow the putty to harden completely. Should take an hour but if you're impatient just put the base 6-8"under a 100 watt light bulb for about fifteen minutes. Remove from light and allow to cool for five to ten minutes. Apply a small amount of glue (either 5 minute epoxy or cyanoacrylate) to the plugs. Insert the plugs into the holes making sure the mini is standing straight up.

 

Voila!  :cool:

 

Hope this helps!

 

C-ya'll at Gen Con 2003!

 

>>ReaperWolf

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What you can also try is a scalpel, it will cost a little effort, but you can support the legs with your fingers (just make sure you don't cut them)

I also seem to remember special square GW bases that could support round bases. It had a big circular slot in it where you could fit the base in.

The slot was just deep enough to not get any edges and if there is space between the original base and the square base, it  is easy enough to fill it up with some putty..

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Like lots of people I hate the broccoli bases. Like lots of people I painstakingly removed them from my Reapers (and others, like my historicals I mixed with old GW Bretonnians). After a while I got sick of doing it...who wants to grind the base away from a dozen goblins I need for a game next week?!?

 

I do this instead:

 

1. I take a standard GW base (I use the round 1" bases rather than the square ones; if you're planning on using them for D&D then facing is relative and the round base allows you to adjust and still keep a nice, neat 1" footprint) and cut away the inside. I use a Black & Decker variable speed drill with a small bit to cut around the outside edge, and then use a new sharp knife to cut away the center. You should now have a plastic ring.

 

2. Next I glue the ring onto a piece of paper using some epoxy, and after curing test fit, adjust, and finally glue the figure inside the ring.

 

3. Next I fill the ring with epoxy. You need the flow-ey kind, not the gel-ey kind for this (you want it to flow) up to the edge of the ring and the base, blending all together.

 

4. Finally texture the base and add bits if you want. I texture with sand, add bits of ballast, or bits of detritus salvaged from old figures, model kits, or GW plastic sets (GREAT use for these!), and prime to taste.

 

I find this far easier and less labor intensive than other methods.

 

Damon.

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Most hobby shops have a spiffy tool that's perfect for the job. I found mine in the train section but I've also seen `em in the tool isle. The tool is called a Xuro-Shear and costs about $12.00 American. Basically it's a combonation of a pair of pliers and nail trimmers. The clippers make a precise cut that's flush and they'll cut though just about anything pewter, plastic, even thin steel rod.

:cool:

How thick of metal can you cut with them?

Have you ever broken a pair?

 

Reason I ask is that I have broken two pairs of sidecutters I picked up at GW. (I also have broken three Craftsman cutters, but they are cheaper to replace  :D but are not true flush sidecutters :( and thus do not leave a "pretty" edge )

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  • Reaper User
Most hobby shops have a spiffy tool that's perfect for the job. I found mine in the train section but I've also seen `em in the tool isle. The tool is called a Xuro-Shear and costs about $12.00 American. Basically it's a combonation of a pair of pliers and nail trimmers. The clippers make a precise cut that's flush and they'll cut though just about anything pewter, plastic, even thin steel rod.

:cool:

How thick of metal can you cut with them?

Have you ever broken a pair?

 

Reason I ask is that I have broken two pairs of sidecutters I picked up at GW. (I also have broken three Craftsman cutters, but they are cheaper to replace  :D but are not true flush sidecutters :( and thus do not leave a "pretty" edge )

The cutters slice through the broco bases like a hot knife through butter. Never managed to destroy a pair yet but then again I leave cutting steel gauge wire to my heavy duty needle nose pliers.

 

Even after minor mistreatments they retain their true sidecutting edge.

 

>>ReaperWolf

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