NMM

[Hadier]

Hi i was wondering if anyone can advise some colors to use for gold and silvers? i have looked at the stickys and the only problem i have with those is in 1 it advises a GW color thats no longer made and the rest cover so many differant companys that i have no way of getting them.

i was hopeing someone might be able to advise what RMS and GW paints to use since i have all the RMS and easy access to GW paints.

 

thanks

[fieldarchy]

I use brown liner for my darkest shadow on gold, then the rest of the colors in various mixes are blackened brown, chestnut brown, chestnut gold, palomino gold, sunlight yellow, pure white.

 

Steel I used Flynn's recipe in the sticky.

[mattmcl]

I've used Anne's gold recipe from the sticky. For steel, I base with 2 parts brown liner, 2 parts blue liner, 1 part white and 1 part breonne blue. Then deep shadows with blue liner (sometimes I change this based on other colors on the mini), then take the base coat and keep adding white to it, all the way up to pure white in about six steps.

[Vaitalla]

Basecoat a 5050 mix of Russet Brown and Palomino Gold

Darkest shadow Russet Brown

First highlight 75/25 mix of Palomino/Russet

Second Highlight pure Palomino...you may want to add a brushful of your previous mix to tone this down a little as pure Palomino is BRIGHT!

Third Highlight 50/50 Palomino/Clear Yellow with a drop of White added

Fourth Highlight keep adding white

Final highlight Pure White

If your gold is too yellow, glaze with Saffron Sunset to deepen and add compexity to the color.

 

For silver/steel, you can use any neutral or bluish greys, even some purple or greenish greys if you wish. The color should be mostly grey. Use Grey Liner for your darkest shadows and add Pure White in successive steps for highlights.

 

All NMM needs to go up to Pure White highlights.

 

Hope that helps!

 

--Anne

[Przemas]

can`t recall which paints i`ve used for nmms from the Reaper range (and I think Anne has already covered this topic) but when it comes to GW I tend to use snakebite leather+black, snakebite leather, snakebite leather + white for golds and chaos black highlighted to space wolves grey for steel/silver.

[Mclimbin]

For steel, don't try to use your shadow color and just white. I tried it, it made me want to pull my hair out. After 2 sessions of trying to make it work and failing, I used a grey color for the midtones and everything went smoothly.

[dks]

Most of my paint schemes are muted, so I avoid Palomino Gold or true yellows in my golds.

 

My golds go like this instead:

1. basecoat Earth Brown (or Chestnut Gold for a warmer gold)

2. shade by adding Brown Liner to the basecoat, down to pure Brown Liner

3. highlight by adding Buckskin Pale to the basecoat, up to pure Buckskin Pale, and then Linen White to the Buckskin Pale, up to pure Linen White

 

I used Earth Brown for the basecoat of the 'gold' on the duelist figure:

http://www.reapermini.com/FigureFinder#detail/02981

 

Gold and other colored metals don't reflect absolute white, but their final highlight should at least be brighter than the highlights on the figure's non-reflective surfaces. NMM will stand out better if the cloth (and other matte surfaces) is not highlighted up to white.

 

Derek

[paintminion]

For silvers, especially on swords, I've been using Blackened Brown and White, mixing a grey for the basecoat and blending both ways. Then I've been using Ultramarine Blue or Saphire Blue as a glaze over things. I really like the look of that and can glaze it however often to make it look right.

 

Golds for me lately have been Blackened Brown, Chestnut or Oiled Leather, up to white, with the Saffron Sunset as a glaze, like Anne said. It comes out very warm.

 

Pick something and start with it...don't be afraid of a wrong color, just do your best to pick your progression and glaze in the end when you need to tweak the color.