Color mixing/layering for lissette [#14022]

[jlhorner1974]

All of you color mixing experts about here -- I am painting a Lissette [#14022] for my wife (who will also be a Druid, like the contest winner's rendition), and I need some help.  I've done some decent minis before, but this one has a lot of detail and I'm using some strange colors this time.

 

1.  She wants the bottom dress-like part to be champagne colored.  Any ideas on how to mix this color?  I have some GW and some Reaper paints, and I can buy Reaper paints at a store near me.

 

2.  She wants the shirt/corset part to be burgundy.  Again, any ideas on how to do this?

 

3.  What is the best way to paint the sword like what is in the picture?

 

4.  How can I get the wooden parts of the staff to really look like wood?  I can never get wood to look right...

 

 

Thanks for your help, Jason.

[Mengu]

I'll take a shot at answering some of these.

 

For champaign, I'd go for something like Bleached bone, or Reaper Ivory. You could also look at spring yellow, fair maiden, Buckskin, Orc Flesh, or Linen White for different flavors. Also depends on what other colors you want to work with.

 

For burgundy I'd use Scab red as the base color. Depending on where you want to go from there, you can mix it with a touch of Scorched brown for a rich burgundy, or a touch of Regal Blue for a more purply burgundy. If you have some red wine, just dribble some on a white paper towel, and try to match the color.

 

The sword is I believe shaded metallics. Start with boltgun metal, and highlight with chainmail, and mithril silver. What I sometimes do that I think gives better effects is I darken my chainmail with black ink for the base coat, and highlight from there. You have to start with a black basecoat underneath for the sword.

 

To make wood look more like wood, make sure you use a considerably darker wash than your base coat so the grains look really deep. And use a considerably lighter color for the highlights.

[Errex]

1.- Light yellow?

2.- Scab red basecoat, highlight imperial purple

3.- What picture?

4.-Basecoat vomit/bubonic brown. Add woodgrain with thinned down bleached bone/snakebite leather.

[jlhorner1974]

I got the champagne color to turn out well, thanks.

 

The picture I'm talking about is the Lissette here:

 

http://www.reapermini.com/painting_contest...?date_won=04_03

 

Also it looks like the different parts of the figure are outlined in black --- like the runes on the sword and the detail on the pouches and scroll cases.  How do I do this without totally messing everything up?

 

For the sword, I basecoated in black, and I'll apply some boltgun metal, then chainmail+black ink, and finally silver.  Do I then carefully paint the runes in black and then lightly go back over with gold to highlight?  I'm not sure where in the process the runes are outlined in black.

 

Thanks for everyone's help.  

 

Jason.

[Flit]

I don't have many of Reaper's paints, but I like the results I get doing wood this way:

 

1) Base coat with brown. The one I use is OOP, but it is a fairly warm(yellowish) medium brown.

2) Wash with Reaper's Wood Shade Ink

3) Highlight with base color then base color mixed with tan and/or bone white until you get the effect you want.

 

Hope that helps

:)

[Enchantra]

1.  She wants the bottom dress-like part to be champagne colored.  Any ideas on how to mix this color?  I have some GW and some Reaper paints, and I can buy Reaper paints at a store near me.

 

2.  She wants the shirt/corset part to be burgundy.  Again, any ideas on how to do this?

 

 

4.  How can I get the wooden parts of the staff to really look like wood?  I can never get wood to look right...

Champagne:  Use an ivory color with a hint of yellow and light brown mixed in.  Just enough to tint it though, not to overpower the ivory.

 

For the Burgundy, mix some red and brown, usually two parts red, one part brown, and then a small amount of purple or blue depending on the exact color you want.  May have to adjust the tone by adding a bit more brown or red.

 

For wood:  Basecoat in a medium brown, then wash with a darker brown.  Drybrush with a couple different shades of a lighter brown and a hint of grey.

[jlhorner1974]

Thanks for the help.

 

As I apply the metallic layers and highlights to the sword, should I drybrush or wash?

[Coyote]

blacklining - paint the black first, then add your colours over top. Results in a thinner black line that can't possibly mess up your blending (as it is applied before any blending)

 

For shading metallics, I've been working on a technique I was inspired by someone here to do. Basically, they were undercoating metal with a colour that was essentially, a non-metallic version of the metallic colour.

 

However, I've been undershading to get smooth transitions with metallic paints.

 

It worked very well once, unintentionally. I was going to paint some RnF GW orcs with NMM axes, but it would have taken too long. My girlfriend didn't understand why so I did one side of the axe in NMM to show her. Then, I painted all the axes with Dark Gunmetal (Vallejo). Looking at it later, I could still see the shading from the nmm undercoat.

 

Looked very good, and something I plan on doing anytime I paint metallics.

[Hells_Clown]

Don't know where you live, but if you have a Michael's or Hobby Lobby or Wal-Mart near you, go there.  Plaid paints have both burdungy and champagne.  Usually less than one dollar U.S..  Can't beat that, even if you don't use those colors much.

 

Making something look like wood is much easier when that item is sculpted to look like wood.  Grain is hard to fake, at least for me it is.  Base coat a dark brown and dry brush or layer lighter shades here and there.

 

Hope some of that helped.