Advice on washes

[Hells_Clown]

Now that I've given advice on how to use washes to shade skin, I have a question about said washes.

 

I have problems using ink washes (or others like Vallejo Smoke) in that even though I tend to dilute them quite a lot with thm pooling heavily in some places, and not always in the nooks n crannies.  I sometimes have big spots (that I don't always notice till it's dry) on the chest or bicep let's say.  I also have problmes with bubbles forming.  When the burst they leave rings behind.

 

Anyone got any good advice?

Anybody?

Bueller?

Foerster? (Did I spell that right?  :oo: )

[Coyote]

A wash that goes over the entire surface is a glaze. It should be translucent, but not as thin as a wash.

 

It should be brushed on as a layer of paint, so don't overload the brush and glop it on.

 

A wash wash is thin, again, not flooding the surface, but applied just to the places where you want the wash to be.

 

Also, you will find you get better results if you give the surface a coat of gloss before you wash, especially in areas where you blended heavily, as this creates a very rough surface.

 

Then you can dullcoat as needed.

[Whizard Hlavaz]

I also have problems with bubbles forming.  When they burst, they leave rings behind.

Bubbles could come from a number of sources. For starters, you should take care when mixing your paints/washes, not to do so very vigorously. This is easier said then done, mind you. Just try to be gentle.

 

Next, when dipping your brush into the paint, try to stay away from any bubbles that may have formed (despite your best efforts). They'll pick right up into the brush if you're not careful and then jump to the mini (the little fiends!)

 

Finally, when applying the wash, be sure to be gentle again. Brush the wash on evenly, easing into nooks and crannies. Don't scrub it on. This shouldn't be a hasty process even though it lends itself to be. Your best bet is to trace the contours with your brush, even though drawing across grains leaves nice pools in the deep recesses. It is within these pools that bubbles will form. When done, be sure to carefully inspect the washed area for bubbles. If any are found, try lancing them with your brush or else scooping them out. Whatever you do, don't leave them to dry. That's where your rings come from.

 

Another tip: If rings do form, no matter your efforts to avoid bubbles, you can remove them with a little bit of light friction (the edge of a knife, some sandpaper, etc.) and then smooth them over with another bit of your wash.

 

Hope this helps.

[FreeFall]

Bubbles are my number one problem with inks.  I think that has been said above is dead on, you have to be gentle.  

 

Also, be sure to use extender.  Reaper ink Extender is what I use to dilute my inks, I dont use any water unless I want a very thin glaze.  The extender pulls the ink right into the cracks.

[Coyote]

rings are also formed by pools of paint drying at the outside first.

 

As the surface dries it thickens, making the ink stick to the edges more then the center. Don't allow ink to pool, like was detailed above.

[oracle]

Adding something that breaks down the surface tension of your thinning agent may help.  I use Liquitex Flow-Aid for this.

[Vaitalla]

Freefall and Oracle have it--Reaper Ink Extender is actually a flow improver for inks, and like Liquitex Flow Aid and (my favorite) Winsor & Newton Flow Improver it works by breaking down the surface tension of the paint or ink, resulting in less bubbling and washes going where you want them.  :)

 

--Anne

(yes, Wiz, you spelled it right...