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Sheer WIP/Tutorial Finished


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Way later on posting than I wanted but eh sinus bugs aren't the best for painting. This is not the original sheer mini that I was painting but since this is the Reaper forums I thought I'd switch to a Reaper one. I wanted to paint this one sheer anyhow so this is the perfect excuse! The mini is 2632 Jahenna, Vampire sculpted by Dennis Mize. This is also a good example piece because you can't miss where the skin goes!

 

I personally consider sheer in three different kinds. The "sheer sheer" where the cloth is pretty much nonexistent and unnoticeable next to bare skin, "demi-sheer" where where you have just the barest of glimpses of skin under the cloth and not a lot of skin tone showing and "wet cloth" sheer where the cloth is actively sticking and has different shadows and highlights placements than just dry sheer cloth. I'm going to do this one as "sheer sheer" with some alterations as this is a family friendly board.

 

After I decide what I want to do with a mini I eyeball it again after I clean it. This helps me get into the Zen mood for painting and helps show me where to put highlights, shadows and get straight in my head what I want to do with the miniature before I start. This is also the time I map out where exactly my sheer is going to go. Since this is sheer sheer, skin will be painted normally (shadows, highlights, everything!) everywhere it would appear if she didn't have any clothes on. The black lines show where I plan to put skintone.

 

Vamp1.jpgVamp1sheer.jpg

 

Vamp4.jpgVamp4sheer.jpg

 

Vamp3.jpgVamp3sheer.jpg

 

 

And now I prime and do the skin.

 

 

Maya~

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The following pictures show her base coated. The base coating step of skin is important because it lays out exactly where your skin will be showing through the cloth. If the legs, arms or anything that will be under cloth does not look like it belongs now it won't look good when you are done and needs to be corrected here.

 

If you get flesh tone on the cloth where there won't be flesh showing that's not a problem as the skin color does reflect slightly in sheer fabric. If you are messy and hit the areas where the cloth will be solid it is coverable and it is better to go a little over than not have enough skin painted. However, you don't want to be too messy or you'll make more work for yourself when it comes time to layer in the sheer.

 

Since she has one leg up and leaning against the gravestone, its important to get both sides of the leg painted so they look even from the front. Her left side shows clearly where the leg should go, but its not as well laid out on her right. Since I'm happy with the base coat, I'll finish up the skin, face, eyes and mouth. I highlight all of the skin areas fully before I start laying in sheer as this saves me extra shadowing work and looks better than just leaving it base coated.

 

vamp2front.jpgVamp2back.jpg

 

vamp2side.jpgVamp2side2.jpg

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I would have already updated but photobucket seems to think that the bare metal pics are ok and all but one of the painted ones are ok. But that one violotes their TOS, yet the others don't.. Ok...whatever. I'll post the more when/if I figure out how to link from my website or if I can't..then I'll just put it entirely on my website and post the link.

 

 

Maya~

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I use picfu.net for image uploading. It won't give you an account, and you can't find the image later, but it's great for a quick posting. I can't wait to see your progress on this one!

 

 

Thanks for the link. I apologize for the delay, one of my kitties had an emergency two days of vet visits. Finished skin pics:

 

 

e64901_440x440.jpgbe3789_440x440.jpg36e2bf_440x440.jpg

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Since this is sheer sheer pretty much all of the skin tone will be showing so finishing the skin completely is important. It also makes life so much easier when glazing in the color of the clothes.

 

I start with an extremely thin wash of blue over all the cloth covered skin. In this case I used Vallejo's Transparent Blue, Reaper's Clear Blue also works really well for this. It should be thin enough that when you spread a brush load over your pallet you can see the pallets color and just barely see color when the paint flows back into the well.

 

b593f5_440x440.jpg

 

 

The paint should be thin enough that you don't see but the slightest of changes with the first layer. What we want is the skin to have the barest tint of the color of the cloth. I add more layers until I'm happy with the coloring. Try to avoid pooling and it helps to paint towards the raised cloth areas or areas of solid color cloth. You'll see blue on parts of the miniature that aren't intended to be sheer and this is because I tend to test my brush on either the solid cloth areas (because this will be covered and doesn't affect anything) or another part of the miniature. It helps me make sure the brush isn't overloaded.

 

 

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fee9f4_440x440.jpg53fbfc_440x440.jpg

 

 

After this I will layer up the raised cloth and the areas where the cloth pulls away from the skin with the glaze to block in where the colors will be much darker.

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Wow, even at this early stage, the effect is very noticeable and is looking very good! I hope your cat is doing better!

 

 

Assuming power doesn't go out here tonight I should have more pics up. Once you get the glaze and the first coat of paint on the clothes done it goes very fast.

 

Thanks for the well wishes, we're keeping her painfree for as long as she has a good quality of life.

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