First WW2 mini King Tiger Konigstiger

[sam500]

This tank is supposed to be part of a Bastogne company. Fighting through the winter until eventually running out of gas, this battered tank started out with dark yellow dunkelgelb, was white-washed, and has now started to rust through the end of winter.

Anyway, this is my first Flames of War figure painted so far. I'm going to try and finish a Konigstiger company from the "River of Heroes" book. This also represents my first use of enamel paints, oil paints, and powdered pigments.

 

 

I haven't added any decals yet as I haven't figured out where to get the proper numerals and division symbols.

Nod pointed me in the right direction to what symbols would be necessary for a Konigstiger Bastogne unit:

"I've got the 506 and SS 501 around Bastogne.....

 

the 506

first tiger II's delivered had large olive green patches on dark yellow base. balkenkreuze in centre of turret side.

Later tigers had dark green and earth brown spots. it had a three digit marking system, but still numbering the tanks in the companies from 1 to 14. The company digit was placed on the RH side of the balkenkreuze.

the 2./ had red numbers with a white outline. the 3./ had black numbers with a yellow outline.

it div symbol was the W with yellow tiger.

 

the 501

the Tiger II's were void of zimmeritt and painted in ambush scheme.

1./ black numerals with white outline, on middle of turret side. No balkenkreuze

2./ red with white outlines

2./ blue outlined with yellow.

battalion had large red numerals with white outline.

SS 501 had the crossed keys on the shield"

[Heisler]

Most of my decals are either from I-94 Enterprises or Perrin. Battlefront also makes their own decals. Are you also asking about where to place those decals on the model? You are going to have a hard time placing decals on that model now. Normally they either whitewashed right over them or left a little square of the appropriate color surrounding the marking so it could be seen.

 

That's a really nice job, I love the mudwork on the tracks. If anything is "wrong" its that you have actually probably overdone the rust. For the most part only a knocked-out tank would have rusted that much. The vehicle is to important to the crew to let that much rust appear on their source of proctection. It looks good though so I'm probably the only one that it would bother and there is certainly nothing that would indicate that it didn't happen that way.

[Sergeant_Crunch]

Nope, I thought the rust was a bit overdone myself and I don't even play historicals. Regardless, the tank is outstanding.

[tanker22]

I'm in to heavy weathering and I think it looks outstanding. Very beat up and battle worn if maybe a bit overdone for the situation and the age of the vehicle. The rust on top of the turret is out of place though.

Exterior rust on skirts and, high points, traffic area's or any other area's that the paint and primer can wear off over time will given an extended combat field enviroment. You can never have to much mud and rust on a tank, all that matters is the key mechanical components and weapons systems as far as being clean and serviceable. Its not a dispaly piece, its a tank and shouldn't look like one IMO.

 

As far as your mud something to keep in mind is the roadwheels and track will be caked with it unless its dry and breaks off. The back of the tank is usually covered in it as well from it being thrown up from the track and the front only if its going through ditches or mud holes.

Fenders and splash guards are nice put also the first thing to go since they are made of such thin metal. Doesn't take much to bend or rip them off let alone being blown off by enemy fire. These kind of things dont last long against tree's either, the tree usually wins

The only time you'll see mud along the side skirts for the most part is if you get mired in it or its wet splatter from muddy water type holes.

Dont forget traffic routs for the crew getting on and off the tank as either, if there is mud on ground it gets tracked all over the top of the hull and turret from them walking on it.

 

Interesting color with the white wash as well, very cool

Nice job on it

[Lars Porsenna]

I was deliberating whether I should reply to this, since I didn't want to come out as being too negative, but having been around tanks both in a museum setting as well as the field, I also agree the amount of rust is a bit too much. A Henschel turreted Tiger II would have been produced between the beginning on 1944 to the end of the war, but ZImmerit was discontinued in Aug-Sept 1944, so by this time the tank would have been less than a year old, so simply would not have enough time for the paint AND primer fail and cause the extensive rusting depicted. Even in combat, vehicles like the Tiger would be very well maintained (they were always breaking down for one thing; read Otto Cairus' memoirs for an interesting illumination on the subject) because they were expansive and an "elite" formation. Finally photo evidence tends to back up the small amount of rusting on the vehicle.

 

I would also add that the barrel probably would not blacken due to extensive firing (smokeless powder), but instead might cause the paint color to shift, or cause the paint to flake more readily (thus explaining the darkened look of the muzzle in photos).

 

Of course if you're happy with it, that is what is important. I agree the mud is well done and neccessary!

 

Damon.

[Renowyth]

I cannot add diddly about historical accuracy.

 

However, the paint job looks good. There may be too much rust for accuracy...but it does look like rust, and it seems to be in realistic places.

 

Save it for Reich of the Dead?

[sam500]

Thanks for your suggestions guys.

This was a test piece to try out some techniques before starting with the rest of the army.

I figured it would be easy to practise on the largest of the minis as at 15mm things can get really small, really fast.

I kind of figured there was too much rust after I put it on from a historical perspective, but I was trying to balance chromatic depth and history. When it was only whitewashed it looked rather bland. I'll try changing things up with the next tank and make it more mud caked instead of rusted (maybe dried and wet mud this time).

Cheers!

Sam

[Heisler]

Whitewash was rarely applied as evenly as you applied it on that one. It was usually a rush job and it wore off rather quickly. When I apply whitewash I finish the model completely including decals and light weathering. Then I apply the whitewash in a splotchy manner over the vehicle, paying closer attention to areas where it will were off quickly. Then you can apply your heavier weathering and mud over that.

[Lars Porsenna]

Also late war the Germans were short on everything, including whitewash. Sometimes only the turret got the procedure.

 

Also whitewash weathers very badly, so a lot of the basecoat would show through after a short period of time.

 

Damon.

[sam500]

Here is a picture showing the mini directly after the basecoat -> whitewash -> fading

 

And here I've painted the base coat starting to show through

 

And here I've added heavy weathering and chipping at these same locations

 

And then maybe I went a little overboard with the rust

[Lars Porsenna]

I would also add that that extensive amount of chipping is extreme as well. I know it's the "thing" to do in modelling circles, but its incorrect there as well.

 

Damon.