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What the heck happened?


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What's going on with this paint? It's a mix of RMS Shield Brown and RMS Military Green. It's painted over GW Foundation Charadon Granite that had been washed with Devlan Mud.

 

The skin, boots, and boot/waist/wrist furs are also RMS colors on top of GW Foundation paints, and I've had no problems at all with them.

 

I'm stymied and need help figuring this out. Do I need to try and scrap the worst of this off? Seal it? Go over it with more paint? I've never had this happen before and can't figure out what's going on.

 

wtf.jpg

 

Here's a before pic to compare.

IMG_0979.JPG

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People are asking the right questions.

 

Crackling paint is a phantom issue that we have pop up a couple times a year with MSP. It seems to be tied partially to humidity and partially to how thickly you apply your paints. The reason we ask if your primer was fully-cured is that paint crackling typically happens when a harder coat (the high-acrylic Reaper paints) is applied over the top of a softer coat (some uncured primers, some high-vinyl paints, etc.). I personally have only been able to reproduce the crackling once, and it was when I applied a thick coat of paint over a freshly-primed resin base (so two factors: thick paint and soft un-cured base). I have otherwise never seen it happen on any of my models, so I have been unable to pin down the cause of it once and for all. ::(: I have had people bring me the bottle of the paint that crackled for them and it was perfect for me when I used it. I have had people say that they have used the bottle of paint before with no issues, until it suddenly crackled on one model! This is why I tend think it is tied to a combination of environmental and specific basecoat/primer factors.

 

Now...to answer your question about what to do about it...it is possible to take a taklon brush (small size) and dip it in some Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner and Restorer and in this way to gently strip only the portion of the model which has cracked. You would then need to re-paint, of course. I am pretty sure that painting over crackling wouldn't be optimal, but your cracks do seem very small and fine, so perhaps it would. I would make your paint pretty thin, though.

 

My query is: how thick was the coat you applied that cracked, the green color? How much did or didn't you thin it? Have you used these colors before with good results otherwise?

 

Thanks!

 

--Anne

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I had this happen a long time ago with a blue paint. I ended up stripping mine because the crackling effect carried through to every layer I put on him, even with thick paint like 1to1.

I am now curious if a blast of clear coat would have sealed off the cracks though, and just add another layer of the basecoat instead of stripping.

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I primed with Floquil, which states it's compatible with most plastics. I let it dry for a day. See here. I've worked on them since April 12, so they're not freshly primed.

 

I wondered about the wash, too, and yes, I have painted on top of GW washes. They're a strange beast, and I have no idea how they're concocted. I'll bring one after ReaperCon for you to look at, Anne. They're unusually thick, but they work well, especially for quick washes on army painting jobs.

 

The skin was done with GW foundation Tallarn Flesh, then GW Ogre Flesh wash, then RMS tanned skin triads and I had no problems. I've used Devlan Mud on other models and painted on top of it with RMS paints without any issue.

 

I have some W&N brush cleaner but am not sure if I have any taklon brushes. I only did this to three models, so I will see what I can do to clean them up without stripping them.

 

The paints were appropriately thinned. It was probably about a 3:2 mix of Military Green to Shield Brown with enough water to get a good consistency.

 

I've used the Shield Brown, but this was the first that I've used military green.

 

And yes, I shake 'em up good, real good, like a painter should, knowing that I could, rhymes with wood, and pudd(ing). Uh, okay. I'm losing focus.

 

Thanks for the feedback all. I will probably paint another area for now and let that area dry well and good before cleaning it up and moving on.

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Similar thing recently happened to me, so I will throw in my situation just to give the detectives more clues on why it might be happening.

 

The paint: Reaper's Master Series Dark Elf Shadow.

The primer: Krylon white.

 

The piece was cleaned thoroughly and the primer left to cure for at least twenty-four hours. It was not what I call thick: no detail obscured at all.

 

The paint is still relatively new. However, when I first squeezed some out, I noticed it was too wet, even though I had shook it for nearly a minute. What came out was pretty much unuseable, even after adding a little thicker paint and trying to mix it.

 

I shook the paint up some more and got what looked and felt like a smooth flow from it. I was only able to coat a few small areas before I got pulled away. The paint was not super-thick but maybe a bit thicker than I would normally apply.

 

The next day, cracks identical to DavidVC04's picture showed up. My initial feeling was that the primer might have been too smooth. White Krylon can go on with sort of a glossy smoothness sometimes, and paint has difficulty spreading smoothly across it, or adhering well, at least on the first coat. Subsequent coats were successful without obscuring too much detail. I was in a rush to get the piece done (but actually never finished it, anyway) so I did not have time to worry too much about it. No cracks since then.

 

I will say that the weather here has been crazy. One day it's 90 degrees in the shade, and the next it's cold and raining. The humidity of the past couple of days makes me think weather could have played into this. But my initial feeling still is with the combination of white Krylon going on too smoothly coupled with a slightly more thick coat than I would normally apply.

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Both pictures are showing the area to be slightly shiny (I'm seeing a very marked sheen on the pants and leggings). Does the wash usually dry this shiny/slick...reminds me of what I get with inks? Could that account for the thinned subsequent layers to creep during drying?

-AW

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I recently experienced the same problem with painting over GW washes with RMS paints.

 

I had a good coat with white spray.

I then painted a RMS colour and when that were dry I applied a GW wash on the area.

The next day I painted over most of the previously washed surfuce.

A day later when I went back to the figure and I noticed that the paint I had applied over the washed surface had crackled.

There seems like the shiny surface you get after washing it with the GW washes is no good for RMS paints for some reason.

 

To fix it i applied the paint two more times over the area and that removed the cracks.

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