DHL02499: Tomb Wraith

[haldir]

nice!!

 

When I first looked at the pic, it looked like the rune was floating inside the fold, nice effect ha ha

 

Also nice use of just a few colors, the blade sticks out, while the cloak (figure) mostly stays in the background. Again nice effect

 

RM

[Whizard Hlavaz]

Welcome back from the clutches of WoW!

 

.....

 

I've painted a few glow effects from flat objects (runes, glowing eyes), and I generally find it best to make a jump down in value at the edge of the glowing object to its surroundings, and then darken outward from there. Don't go dark around the glow and then lighten outward. ( -- as you & Jenova have already figured out/discussed)

 

Thanks, Derek. Good to be free of the Warcrack.

 

No, a black coak wasn't my intent. Not even a grey. I wanted a neutral with some traces brown, maybe purple, maybe some yellow. Volcano brown has a bit of purple shade to it to my eye, so I went with that. Highlighted with some Vallejo Dark Flesh.

 

Anyhow... the sigil... If you happen to have an example of a glow you've done, I'd love to see, please. So long as you have the pic handy. Don't take a special shot on my account. So to be clear about how you would paint a glowing object -- are you saying the edges of the object itself would darken a tad? That's what I'm seeing in the Cry Havoc.

 

Next, would you leave any of the surrounding material DIRECTLY NEXT TO THE GLOWING OBJECT unlit? Then darken from a light to fade away there out? I've actually been obsessing since 'abandoning' the piece and would like to try again. Any more advice you could spare would be appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

And thanks, Haldir.

[joshuaslater]

The profanity filter would only block out how damn good that painting is, so I'll stop here.

[dks]

If the glow were coming through a cutout in another object (a jack-o'-lantern effect), then you could paint the forward-facing edges of the blocking object darker, to set up a higher contrast to the light source within.

 

But I was talking about how to simulate a glow from freehand or from a portion of a basically flat object (like a rune on a cloak, eyes in a face, etc).

 

The trick is to fool your viewer into thinking they are seeing light in space in front of and around the glowing area. But you have only solid matter to work with.

 

Maybe a numeric progression would be clearer. On a value scale of 100 (brightest) to 0, most of your figure would be in the range of 0 to 70. The glow itself -- and any reflections of light sources from metal or glossy objects -- would be up around 90-100. At the edges of the glow you would jump down to 80 or so, and then fade back to the ambient brightness of the figure.

 

Here's a part of a painted rune on the ground.

I dabbled some medium blue on the ground around the light-blue ("glowing") rune. I added the highlights on the rock, grass, shoe, and ankle -- objects oriented to catch the light -- in an attempt to give the viewer more cues to the presence of a glow.

 

I wanted the eyes of my Shadow King figure to appear glowy, too, but I failed in the rendition that you see in the Gallery here - Shadow King. The dark lining around those eyes prevents the "glow in space" effect. I have touched up the eyes since then, using a medium green as a new lining around the eyes, but I haven't taken new photos.

 

Hope this helps,

Derek

 

Anyhow... the sigil... If you happen to have an example of a glow you've done, I'd love to see, please. So long as you have the pic handy. Don't take a special shot on my account. So to be clear about how you would paint a glowing object -- are you saying the edges of the object itself would darken a tad? That's what I'm seeing in the Cry Havoc.

 

Next, would you leave any of the surrounding material DIRECTLY NEXT TO THE GLOWING OBJECT unlit? Then darken from a light to fade away there out? I've actually been obsessing since 'abandoning' the piece and would like to try again. Any more advice you could spare would be appreciated.

 

Thanks.

[jenova]

The gold was undercoated in Reaper Walnut (old Reaper Pro). Next, a bit of Vallejo Ochre Yellow to base. This was shaded by my cloak's base, which was a blend of equal parts Reaper Master Weathered Blue and Volcano Brown. Highlight back up with Ochre Yellow glazes. Touch of white added to Ochre Yellow. Then white to top off the tips. I skipped using any kind of lemon yellow or yellow so as to keep the gold "aged" and antiqued. Unlike the cold, bright steel blade, I didn't want shiny gold. I wanted it warmer, earthier.

 

Thank you for the NMM recipe and the bigger pictures. I just found my bottle of Yellow Ochre so I will go play with some NMM!

 

Now you may put the figure in a box and send it to me :