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Taryn Spearmaiden


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Your paint is very clean. Nice job.


The key to NMM is contrast. Contrast on the metal area itself and against surrounding areas. That is to say, there should be movement from very dark to very light across the surface on most painted metals (assuming a full light source) and contrast against the areas adjacent to the metal.


I'm not being clear.


You can make a dot of white on a bit of earth brown gleam like gold if this surface is abutted to a darker region featuring muted highlights. Just a dab of paint will read like metal if the surrounding area is more subdued. So... your piece's breastplate. Keeping the flesh highlights away from white... If the purple of the center was darker the gold trim would gleam hotter and read more like metal if the underside of the trim moved from dark brown (walnut) up and around to earth brown to lemon yellow to white and your edges were trimmed in a light yellow/white. Just remember to keep your whitest white for tight spots of glinting reflection.

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.... it is the golds and bronzes that get me. I think I need to work on the color choices for those NMMS.


Gold NMM --> Reaper Pro Walnut --> Vallejo Flat Earth --> Vallejo Ochre Yellow --> Vallejo Light Yellow --> Vallejo White --> Winsor & Newton Titanium White


Bronze --> Reaper Pro Walnut --> Vallejo Red Leather --> Vallejo Dark Flesh --> Vallejo Ivory


Or equivalents from any line. Drop the Light Yellow to make "antiqued" gold. Add green/green-blue to tarnish bronze.

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