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joe b

Other paints?

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I feel odd asking this question here, being Reaper's board, but there are a lot of folks I trust here. I'm considering expanding my paint set to other paints, but I don't remember which ones are considered good and which are not so good. So, if you're up for sharing your experiences with the following, please feel free. What I'm mostly interested in is how they fare in terms of coverage, ease of use and whether they are temperamental in particular way I need to keep in mind.

 

Tamiya

Vallejo Model

Vallejo Game

Privateer Press

 

Thanks.

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I've got a set (haven't had occasion to use them thouhg) of the P3 paints... I've been told they cover a lot like the pro paints, are are a pretty decent line of paints in general. One thing I've noticed with them though, is a fair amount of the colors settle really bad, and take a LOT of shaking to remix well, that and they're in pots instead of droppers. I'd definitely suggest making some agitators for these guys if you have a set and don't shake them often.

 

One of the vallejo lines is good, the other isn't.. I can never remember which one is which. In terms of RMS the good line is pretty comparable in terms of quality I've been told (never used any of the vallejo line except for metallic medium, which is neat)

 

Tamiya's paints are pretty good for airbrushing, that's what I use them for exclusively. They've got a very smooth finish and thin down well with windex (old school formula) Plus those little pots can prime a lot of minis when compared to spray cans of stuff. I've never actually used their paints with a brush and palette however (at least not since i was a kid), only for priming.

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The only experience I have with any of these is Tamiya grey primer and I love it. I would be interested in hearing about Vallejo, because I was thinking of picking either these or the RMS paints for Christmas to replace my GW collection...GW paints aren't horrible, but I hate the paint pot design and want paint in a dropper stlye container for easy measuring and dispensing. I would love to support Reaper honestly, but if the vallejo are a good alternative it might be a good arguing point with my wife who thinks the Reaper paints are a bit pricy.

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I have limited experience with VMC paints; the metal medium is great but soaks right through my wet palette, the basalt grey is utterly devastating to everything I mix it with, and the glossy black is glossy and black. (10:1 glossy black:basalt grey is a decent carbon-fibre recipe for those of us who don't want to apply CF decals to our formula-car models.) Around here, bottles of VMC run about 25% higher prices than RMS, but probably contain about 25% more paint don't contain much more paint (thanks Heisler!).

Edited by Ferox

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I've used GW paints for years eventually getting a bit annoyed that my second Mega paint set had dried up, those new plastic pots are rubbish for paint longevity. so I decided to try out Vallejo Game colour, wasn't too keen on them, despite the similar colour range to the GW paints. I then decided to give the Vallejo Model colour range a bash, nice range of military colours but was always finding that some of my choice of colours were hard work to put through the airbrush and I want always keen on the Vinyl look so after finally getting to a position where I could get the RMS paints to the UK, I decided to give Reaper Master Series a go...

 

I now have the range of RMS paints which I use pretty much exclusively now and have the following full sets of paint collecting dust on a shelf:-

 

VMC

VGC

Coat D'Arms

 

 

The RMS paints just seem to complement my paint style. I can control the fluidity and characteristics of the paint and a useful aspect for me is I can use the paint via brush OR airbrush, so colour matching is less of a problem. I might crack open the Coat D'Arms paints from time to time when I need to do a bit of brush dunking to get a lot of mini's painted for a game army, but it's pretty much RMS all the way for me these days.

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I have used Vallejo Model Color paints for years, overall they are excellent paints and I freely mix them with my RMS paints. Please note they do NOT contain 25% more paint than an RMS bottle. I believe (and don't quote me till I confirm) that and RMS bottle is 17ml and a VMC bottle is 19ml. The price is about the same. Most VMC colors must be thinned they come out very thick from the bottle, but not all. Coverage varies quite a bit depending on the color.

 

I have used P3s and for me they more equivelent to Reaper Pro Paint, good coverage straight from the bottle, but they do separate badly. I have not had any of them dry out on me as they have a really good flip-top pot.

 

 

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I've been concentrating on the use of the P3's and so far I am happy with the results. I personally haven't experienced the seperation issue. They are having troubles with the metallics currently so I wouldn't give them a try yet although the ones that I bought are fine and not clumpy.

Overall I use the VMC and Reaper Pro(new) along with the recent addition of the P3 line.

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I still consider myself a free agent when it comes to paint, using what I think will work best for any particular purpose.

 

That said, however, I find I have unconsciously moved almost completely to using P3. Coverage is amazing, especially on familiarly tricky colors like whites, oranges and yellows. If you can imagine the best of Reaper's paints in terms of coverage and flow and how much you like them, pretty much every single non-metallic P3 paint feels like that consistently and better (sorry Reaper - I still love your Pro Series). I have never seen a non-metallic P3 pot dry out or separate, not even after years on the shelf.

 

As to the P3 metallics, I do use many of the silver tones consistently, but the gold and brass pots are their big failing point. My experience, as with some other painters I know, is that the P3 gold, brass, etc., separate pretty much out of the factory and are nearly impossible, if not impossible, to un-gum and to maintain. Though they provide better coverage than GW (my primary source for metals) they are nowhere near as reliable, so GW metals remain on my table.

 

The other one I would chime in on is Vallejo. I think anybody who gets into painting anything resembling modern military eventually ends up with some Vallejo on their table, just because it is immediately available in the right hues for any particular uniform. I equate the quality of Vallejo in terms of coverage to the best of Reaper's paints. Reaper is more reliable, though, and more consistent. The Vallejo stuff tends to separate pretty quickly, and can fool you, so that even after you shake it for several minutes, you find yourself squirting mainly water with just a tiny bit of pigment, onto your palette. After awhile this really reduces the life of the paint.

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One thing about Tamiya: if used properly it can be brush painted, and in fact I've used their Feldgrau several times when painting early war German uniforms. Like any paint, though, it must be thinned, and best when using multiple coats. When using this technique, I have never experienced the gumming up phenomenon. But they are more tricky to use as a brush paint than in an airbrush (where in the latter application they are superb).

 

Damon.

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GW paints aren't horrible, but I hate the paint pot design and want paint in a dropper stlye container for easy measuring and dispensing.

You could always transfer the GW paints to dropper bottles. I picked up about 100 bottles of boston dropper rounds (with tops) from US Plastics for about $30-$40, and I've transferred both Pro Paints and Citadel paints (non Foundation) to the bottles.

 

Ron

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GW paints aren't horrible, but I hate the paint pot design and want paint in a dropper stlye container for easy measuring and dispensing.

You could always transfer the GW paints to dropper bottles. I picked up about 100 bottles of boston dropper rounds (with tops) from US Plastics for about $30-$40, and I've transferred both Pro Paints and Citadel paints (non Foundation) to the bottles.

 

Ron

This could work....Would the foundation paints transfer too? I just feel like I waste a lot of paint doing the brush dip method for putting drops onto my palette.

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GW paints aren't horrible, but I hate the paint pot design and want paint in a dropper stlye container for easy measuring and dispensing.

You could always transfer the GW paints to dropper bottles. I picked up about 100 bottles of boston dropper rounds (with tops) from US Plastics for about $30-$40, and I've transferred both Pro Paints and Citadel paints (non Foundation) to the bottles.

 

Ron

This could work....Would the foundation paints transfer too? I just feel like I waste a lot of paint doing the brush dip method for putting drops onto my palette.

 

 

I transferred all of my Foundation, GW Washes and P3 Paints to empty Reaper bottles. Smartest thing I ever did.

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