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Kilazar

Blood Red is chalking when applied over itself

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What the title says, my reaper Deep red is turning pinkish after applied over the top of a previous layer of the same color!

 

More details. I am painting Blood Angels, and going with a darker scheme, so I airbrushed deep red over a flat black primer. The color came out perfect. After that was done I picked one marine out and used him as my pallet to find out exactly what my entire scheme was going to be. I did a little touch up with the deep red, then inked him with badaab black. Re applied the deep red in progressive 90, and 80% coverage. And it came out perfectly fine. Each step allowed for the previous applications to dry completely

 

So I started painting the rest of my crew with the deep red doing factory style touch up to hit the spots I missed with the airbrush. And the paint is chalking on the other dudes while my test marine is still perfect! It applies and looks fine wet, and even when it first dries it looks the same shade. But after about 5 minutes of drying it is a really light almost dark pinkish shade like it was a red chalk. Why is it doing this? It is really driving me crazy, and the worst part is I did not notice it was doing this until I got around to applying more colors on the rest of my 30 marines. Please tell me I can fix this and I don't have to strip and start over.

 

Also just to make sure it was not just those marines, I went over to my rhino that was airbrushed the same way, and did a quick swath of paint. Same results. So I picked up a flat black primed termy and tried applying the deep red. It went on very thin and I had to build it up in layers, but the full pigmented layer came out a very subdued lightish red instead of the deep red color that the paint dries into on my pallet. I tried a new bottle and same results. The new bottle was purchased last week.

 

 

*edit*

Can someone fix my title please, it was supposed to be deep red!

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More information is needed to really get a good idea, Kilazar. What did you use to cut the paint when you were putting it through the airbrush? Also, when you're painting on the Deep Red with a brush, what are you mixing in the paint to thin it? Just water? Any additives? What's the rough ratio to paint:additives? That'll help dial it in a bit as to what the problem might be.

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What John said. ::): More information, please! How much are you thinning it when you're applying it and it's chalking, what are you using to thin it? I am painting some red right now and will test the colors you mention extensively over the weekend to see if I can duplicate the issue.

 

Thanks!!

 

--Anne, a.k.a. she who makes the paint

p.s. Have you used that bottle of color before on other projects and has it ever acted that way on those?

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Well the airbrush was just cut with water, about 50/50. But after that no cutting when re applying to my test model that came out fine.

 

I did find that if I use the reaper drying dehydrator, and the Privateer press mixing medium at a 1/1/1 ratio, I could put on thinner layers and build up to a almost not bad color of the red without losing details. But it still does not come out anywhere near the test model, or anywhere near the other models I have painted with this color in the past.

 

With the test primed modle. I did no cutting at all either and the color after tons of layers still comes out lighter than many of my other models I have painted with this color over this primer in the past. It makes no sense to me that one model will come out fine and nothing else will.

 

*edit*

No this bottle is a new one. But the "old" bottle was used on the test pallete model, and on 3 or 4 of the models with the issue before purchasing a new bottle. The old bottle was kinda old though. Thats what prompted the replacement. I will see if I can get pictures tonight when I get home. though I am not good at taking them so they may not help.

 

 

 

One additional question, do you think room temperature can have a drastic effect on the pigment? I keep my house at 68 degree's. But when I originally did the airbrush the room temperature was probably about 70 to 71.

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Have a look at the pic in post 10 in one of my older threads. The front half of the model was a mix of the colour and distilled water. The back half of the model was done with 1:1 of the paint and Liquitex airbrush medium. The front half looks a bit chalky and dried out, whereas the back half looks a better solid colour.

 

 

http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/38733-airbrushing-with-msp/page__p__556301__hl__Airbrush__fromsearch__1entry556301

 

 

Maybe similar?

 

I'll have a go at doing the same with Deep Red now and see the results.

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Have a look at the pic in post 10 in one of my older threads. The front half of the model was a mix of the colour and distilled water. The back half of the model was done with 1:1 of the paint and Liquitex airbrush medium. The front half looks a bit chalky and dried out, whereas the back half looks a better solid colour.

 

 

http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/38733-airbrushing-with-msp/page__p__556301__hl__Airbrush__fromsearch__1entry556301

 

 

Maybe similar?

 

I'll have a go at doing the same with Deep Red now and see the results.

 

 

Hard to tell with the grey since it's not a really contrasting difference, but I think maybe it looks close. The front looks like the color is washed out and lighter, while the back of your model looks solid. The problem with the deep red is it's a huuuuuuuuge difference. Thanks for being willing to test for me.

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Here you go, I think this is the same problem. the front half of the mini was done with MSP Deep Red and Water 1:1, the back half was done using a 1:1 mix of paint and Airbrush medium.

post-6029-12726473570018_thumb.jpg

post-6029-1272647382707_thumb.jpg

post-6029-12726473944637_thumb.jpg

post-6029-12726474121409_thumb.jpg

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Yes that is what it is doing, though it's coming out a bit lighter for me. And I'm not useing any water. My results have been with the paint straight out of the bottle. I get a bit of a darker shade if I mix some drying dehydrator and the pp mixing medium at 1/1/1. But it's still not as dark as I'm used to the deep red being.

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This is the stuff I'm on about, works for me.

 

http://www.liquitex.com/Products/fluidmedairbrush.cfm

 

I've got a slightly modified mix in a MSP spare bottle, where the mix is:-

 

50% Airbrush Medium

25% distilled water

12% flow aid

12% fluid retarder

 

There abouts anyway.

 

 

Well I'm past the airbrush stage, with the airbrush medium in is it cool to brush paint and get the same application? The reason I ask is cause alot of work has already whent into them. I got the guns and icons all painted and I'm worried that if I just go back to base coat and start over that I'm going to be dulling my detail out. So at this point I would like to just touch up the area's that are applied wrongish.

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Test it out on one of the mini's armour bits, it should be ok, failing that have you tried adding some brush on sealer to the mix?

 

 

 

 

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I'll give what you said a shot tonight when I get home. What exaclty is the cause of the water dilution issue? Is it just diluting the pigment too much where as the other additives don't dilute as much?

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This is baffling, and I'm going to show it to our tame paint chemist and see what he has to say about it! Temperature will often alter the color a paint dries but I thought it had to be more than a few degrees. If I am understanding correctly, you got the lighter color and the paint was not thinned at all at that point?

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Yes, I get the lighter color without thinning the paint or with thinning the paint. Even with a new bottle.

 

 

I have found that about 5 minutes of super vigorous shaking aleviates it for smaller work (like a space marine) but any area larger than say a half inch swatch on like a tank, I have to super saturate my brush in order to do. And even then the edges where the paint has been spread thin tend to go on that really light color. Found my brick red does it too. That bottle is also new.

 

I do have a new order of brick red and deep red coming in this week directly from you guy's instead of from my LGS. Maybe the pots I got from the LGS were just sitting around waaaay too long.

 

At this point I can repair my marines. But I can't thin the paint to do it so it's leaving brush strokes on them. And this bothers me. I really hope the new bottle is better. I'm still not sure how to fix my predator other than starting over from black prime and just choosing a different color. Again, we shall see how the new bottles fair.

 

 

Also, I'd like to give a huge thanks to everyone trying to help in this thread. I can't bring my self to strip them and start over cause the figs lose too much detail so repairing the current paint, or tossing them and buying all new figs are my only real options. The loss of detail from the strip would bug me way to much for me to ever get back around to repainting.

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