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NMM Thou Art A Heartless B!!ch.


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The shoulder plates look pretty good. The back of the armour also looks good, though the blending is rougher towards the shadowed portions and I think you lost the midtone a bit. Outside of large rounded surfaces like that, it helps a lot to have the white hotspot adjacent to a deep shadow whereever possible. The thigh plates, for example, don't really seem to 'shine'. If they had tiny white dots placed in logical highlight locations next to some of the shadow recesses, it would bring out a lot more of a shine appearance. You did that with the shoulder plates, which is one reason they work so well!

 

NMM was a big trial for me to learn, so I feel your pain! For me, it helped to try a different technique. What I tried was based on a tutorial in the Darkson Designs painting book by Jester. In the tutorial he started at near white (misty gray), painted in the white hot spot, then all the shading was glazing down with very thinned paint. The Snow Shadow triad is very nice for this, either straight or mixed with neutral grays. It's still fiddly, there's still a lot of going back and forth to try to smooth the transition lines, especially on something like a sword. (By a lot of back and forth, I'm going to say the first few I did, one face of a sword might take as long as an hour or more to get it as smooth as I demand.) But for me it worked a lot better than doing the mid-dark-light technique that usually works so well for me.

 

Another alternative you can try is to go up and then back down or other variations like that. What I mean by that is, the way I paint very shiny black like patent leather or black hair. I highlight up from the black and it looks pretty rough. Then I run through the same sequence in reverse trying to smooth out the transition lines. It's quicker than trying to get everything perfect as I work up.

 

This tutorial outlines another technique you might try. Rather than aiming for a fantastically smooth blend, it aims for a streaky shine look. Streak painting NMM tutorial. I had already worked out NMM when I tried it, but I did try it on one mini and found it faster and less fiddly. My streak painted mini (nudity alert).

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I applaud your work. I've been dancing with this elusive technique for better than a year. I think you are doing all the right things, its the subtle blending that really makes it work. That takes a lot of practice. I recently painted a greek army trying NMM on bronze. I got to try a lot of different things. That may be the way to home in on your techniques, paint a lot of similar figures at once, repeating the process and watching the differences take affect. When you do a single figure you paint a lot of different things, but if you work on twenty helmets in row, you start to see things you wouldn't with just one (Like spots, dancing before your eyes).

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Wren,

 

Thanks for the reply and the links. I'm friends with Jester (he lives here in MN) and I have his NMM tut, it's one of the ones I printed out when I was starting out. I'll take a look at those other links though. Any tips is well appreciated and I hope others will go to them as well. I'll go back and hit the leg greaves with a white hot spot.

 

Dargrin,

 

Yep. Just like the title says! lol Should have written down what my mid tone was for the Gold nmm. I'll give it a shot and see what happens. Thanks!

 

Randall,

 

Thank you! I try to find minis that I think NMM works well for. I'm very partial to true metallics though. You can do so much more with them.

 

Enchantra,

 

Thank you as well! I do what I can. Like you I prefer metallics over nmm, but I like to push myself.

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Not much I can say that others have not. Many of us struggle with NMM. Sometimes I nail it and other times I can't get it to look like metal at all. I am sure that in hand the mini looks better than in the photos, but the photos do show that more layering and glazing is in order. Keep trying like we all do. You should master this sooner than later. Overall I like the paint scheme and color choices.

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