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I have lurked this forum for quite a while, mostly trying to keep my jaw attached at the amazing work you all do. I paint mostly for the tabletop, here and there trying to do a better job than "basecoat, wash, detail, done." I was inspired to put together a cheapo lightbox the other day and start posting my paint jobs because I think the pressure to have my work be looked at and criticized is what I need to step it up to the next level. So here I go with Sokar's Avatar. One of my favorite models. Probably not my best paint job, but it's one I like at any rate! I've go several shots of him here.










Hope you enjoy! The colors are slightly yellowed - I've got a fluorescent bulb in there. I'll be upgrading to one of those daylight bulbs shortly. C&C welcomed of course.

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Regarding the lighting -> as long as all of the bulbs lighting the lighting box AND the room are the same type, it's really the white balance on the camera (and manufacturer tendencies) that will affect your photo. For example, one of my cameras absolutely cannot properly perform white balance with daylight bulbs at all.


Soooo, double check your camera manual regarding how to do a custom white balance and you may not need to replace those bulbs.

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With your current bulb, you probably just need to set your white balance to "Tungsten". (Your camera also has a "Custom" white balance setting if "Tungsten" doesn't work.)


Alternatively, you can readjust your white balance in post-processing with nearly any image manipulation program.

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I'm no master painter yet either but it looks to me like you need to work on blending a bit more. Like twjolson mentioned, thin your paints. I recently switched to a wet palette and I love it! Anyone can make one with a container that seals, a sheet of paper towel and some cooking parchment (these vary alot, you'll want one that lets a bit of water through). Just fold up the towel and set it inside the container, soak it with water and put the parchment on top. It will let you mix your colors so you can blend up to highlights smoother. Then you can seal it shut and not worry about the paint drying out before you can finish the model(s).


As for your model above I would also recommend a dark brown ink wash on the goldy parts, this will bring out the definition. Make sure you use water and future floor polish to thin it out alot. You can also use common dish soap instead of future floor polish, this will break the surface tension of the ink so that it flows only into the recesses of the models and dries without leaving washed out lines on your model.

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