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Tutorial: Choosing & Buying Paint


EldarCorsair
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That's a nice tutorial and covers a lot of ground. Thanks.

 

You said to stay away from Artist grade paint. I thought Artist grade had more pigment and was higher quality than Student or Value grade.

 

You said to use BBs as paint agitators. I haven't used them because I've heard people claim they can rust. Perhaps some BBs are better than others for this job?

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That's a nice tutorial and covers a lot of ground. Thanks.

 

You said to stay away from Artist grade paint. I thought Artist grade had more pigment and was higher quality than Student or Value grade.

 

You said to use BBs as paint agitators. I haven't used them because I've heard people claim they can rust. Perhaps some BBs are better than others for this job?

 

It really depends on brand, but most brands list artist quality as a lesser-grade. You want to look for premium or professional grade paints.

 

BBs shouldn't rust. Rust is oxidation causes by exposure to air. Obviously, if a BB suspended in paint is rusting then your paint is being exposed to too much air and will dry out to quickly. If it's still an issue, you can also use small lead fishing sinkers (which won't rust).

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Shaking your paint will introduce plenty of oxygen to rust your BBs; I'd strongly recommend against BBs at all as well.

 

Also, one of the main reason people recommend paints designed for miniature painting over craft paints is the substance used to produce coverage. In miniature paints it's usually white pigment that's added, but in artist paints it's ground silicates/clay (Anne would be more knowledgeable on the particulars); the larger particles in the craft paints make them chalkier/clumpier to the eye.

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That's weird. I've used the same BBS over and over for about 5 years now. No rust, no discoloration. They're not as shiny as they used to be, but they're still good. Maybe I got a great batch?

 

As I mentioned before, lead sinkers will do the same thing and I'll be sure to put them in the article.

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I have mention this before but a Laboratory Vibrating Mixer, you can get them for under 30 buck on eBay, can do wonders for keeping paints mixed and reviving paint that are just starting to go. I just use rubber bands to hold a small tray on the mixer itself, with more bands to hold the paint and I can mix 10 at a time. Spray cans are really easy as well.

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When I mentioned this to my gaming friends all I got where jokes about the vibrating part and my penchant for excessive tool buying and building, I bought a vacuum chamber, and pressure pot for casting resin at the same time, and built a workstation with mirrors on the backsplash to bounce and maximize my light. I have to take some pictures, but first let me check eBay for a similar model.

 

Bellow is the link to a cosmetic duplicate to my model, except mine is 110V, I paid $30.00, a great deal I realize now, and picked it up from a business making custom replacement magnetic heads for computer and recorders. It was the same place; I bought my resin casing equipment from. The owner of the company thought I was making meth, until I explained just want all the equipment was for.

 

There are deals to be had out there you have to look, try Craigs list; I bought a Centrifuge for 30.00, yes more projects. Shipping will always be the biggest problem, so look locally. I hope this help, and I will find my old pictures or take new ones, if you want to see my simple set up for mixing paint.

 

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/IKA-vibrax-VXR-shaker-220-v-mixer-microplate-vortexer-/200250906171?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2e9fe2563b

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BBs in your paint will rust. Been there, done that. Although I hear that stainless steel will not rust in paint, I haven't tried it. Most of my paints are Reaper, so they have the skull agitators which work just fine. My non-Reaper paints have glass beads in them which also work just fine.

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