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Superglue often works. Epoxy almost always works better. Some people swear by Gorilla Glue, which seems to be a more flexible adhesive, and therefore a bit more resistant to shocks.

 

Any glue works better if you pin the joint (drill into both sides of the joint and use a wire pin to make a better mechanical connection between the pieces).

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I've switched from basic superglue to Zap a Gap brand...I just like the little tip thingie on it better. I think they are basically the same. Glue minis, glue fingers, and occasionally when I can't get that exacto knife cut to stop bleeding quickly, works in a pinch. :unsure:

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As a veteran of Zap-a-Gap from waaay back, please let me caution anyone new to it. It won't last long. In my experience, it crusts up and flakes off within only a few years, and much sooner if for some reason your model should receive some kind of rough handling.

 

I use Gorilla now. Very happy with it so far.And sometimes Loctite (sp?), which I also am happy with.

 

I don't really see a need for a gel or a two-part, as I tend to pin most everything, and I do a lot of work with filling in gaps.

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Currently I use Zap-a-gap CA+ which is a gap-filling superglue. I hear that Gorilla CA glue is better.

 

I also pin the joint. If the joint you're working on has good contact, then pinning is not as necessary. It depends how rough you'll be on it. I enjoy the pinning process, and I recommend you try it, preferably on something noncritical the first time.

 

I've also used epoxy putty and epoxy adhesive to join parts. With the putty I skipped pinning and was surprised that it held quite well. However, I'm pretty careful with minis. If there's a chance of rough handling, you should pin.

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I use CA, often some epoxy putty to fill gaps in the joint, and pin almost everything. Pinning is probably overkill for most joints, but there's nothing wrong with overkill. ::): Lately I've started scoring a cross-hatched pattern into the contact surfaces on both sides, especially for joints I can't pin: it's an easy way to increase contact area.

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Thanks guys for the helpful answers. Not quite sure what the equivalents of Gorilla and Zap a Gap are here in Europe, but I've found a local Games Workshop store, they should be able to help further.

 

I got my Reaper figures in the post yesterday. In trying to bend one of the swords straight it snapped in the middle. What's the best way of repairing it? It looks too thin to pin properly and I can't imagine that just glueing is going to be strong enough in the long term (it's a PC in my RPG and will be handled quite a bit). Any thoughts?

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Currently I use Zap-a-gap CA+ which is a gap-filling superglue. I hear that Gorilla CA glue is better.

 

Gorilla CA is about the same consistency and quality as Zap gel. However, more importantly for me the tip doesn't dry out! I've used CA for years now and every friggin' bottle of Zap (or other brands) always dried out the tip eventually, no matter how diligently I cleaned after each use and cleared with a pin. Or the cap wouldn't seal well, letting moisture-laden air into the bottle, which cures the CA inside until it's a useless sludge that won't flow out anymore...

 

I don't have that problem with Gorilla CA. The cap screws on, lessening air contamination. The cap has a metal pin in it that keeps the bottle tip open. So far, so good, after about 6 months on this bottle... I'd have tossed two bottles of Zap by now.

 

The only downside is the tip's not made for precision hobby work, unlike Zap's replaceable micro-tips. I just pour some out onto a piece of paper and apply with a brass rod or pin.

 

Later,

Laszlo

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As a veteran of Zap-a-Gap from waaay back, please let me caution anyone new to it. It won't last long. In my experience, it crusts up and flakes off within only a few years, and much sooner if for some reason your model should receive some kind of rough handling.

 

Is this the thin-bodied Zap or Zap-a-gap? Just curious because it seems to stick well to my minis.

 

Honestly 90% of my paint jobs are for display, so it's not like I'm banging them around a lot, but I just stripped a 6-year old space marine captain with brake cleaner (the solvent stuff, not the fluid). The cleaner made the 5-min epoxy I used to hold his repositioned arm resemble (and flow like) Ghostbusters' ectoplasmic snot. (Kind of cool actually. :blink:) But the Zap-a-gap holding a pin in his back was like a rock...

 

Later,

Laszlo

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The bottle of GW cyanoacrylate I've been using has a screw-on cap that has kept the tip from clogging, even when I absent-mindedly tried to screw an RMS cap onto it.

 

LK, for that broken sword I'd suggest clipping off the whole thing, carving a new one from a piece of sheet styrene ("plasticard" at any model train shops you have nearby), and pinning that to the hand. Unfortunately pewter and its alloys tend to suck for bending strength. In future, try heating the mini up in a pot of hot water before bending it back into shape -- the heat will make the metal more likely to bend and less likely to snap.

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I got my Reaper figures in the post yesterday. In trying to bend one of the swords straight it snapped in the middle. What's the best way of repairing it? It looks too thin to pin properly and I can't imagine that just glueing is going to be strong enough in the long term (it's a PC in my RPG and will be handled quite a bit). Any thoughts?

 

Hmmm. If it's too thin to pin, glue won't really hold by itself. You could try using an epoxy putty which can be filed (Milliput, Brown Stuff, Aves, etc.) Build it up around the break and then file it back down to the proper sword thickness. However those types of putties aren't too flexible and it may break anyway.

 

One weird, but possible, solution is to solder the blade. I knew a woman years ago who soldered her minis instead of gluing them. However, you have to get the whole area really hot enough for the solder to flow and that risks approaching the melting point of pewter (which I assume is higher than a soft solder, but you never know...)

 

For the best longevity I'd just replace it. I don't know the specific mini, but if you can cut it off the hilt cleanly, it's a snap to drill out the hand and add a new pinned blade through it. Reaper sells weapon packs for just his purpose. Since you ordered it overseas, though (and presumably don't want to pay shipping just to buy a weapons pack) you could try scoring some (shhh....) GW swords for this swap. (But you didn't hear it from me! We are on Reaper Forums after all... :poke:)

 

Take care,

Laszlo

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Hi Laszlo, the figure in question is 02459 (Ava, Female Templar). I've already got a second order together from Reaper (half my players weren't happy with the figures I'd looked out for them - they still haven't got hold of the concept that the GM is all-wise, all-knowing and always right, hard to swallow as two of them are my kids, they ought to know at least that by now :rolleyes:), so adding a weapons pack isn't going to be a problem. I'll probably follow your advice here. I was in the local GW shop this lunchtime and they seem like a friendly lot, so I'll probably take the figure there and ask them to drill it out for me first. Thanks for the idea.

The lad in the shop was trying to persuade me to give Warhammer a go, so I asked him how old he was. "22" he says. "Son, I tried Warhammer before you were born!"

 

 

For the best longevity I'd just replace it. I don't know the specific mini, but if you can cut it off the hilt cleanly, it's a snap to drill out the hand and add a new pinned blade through it. Reaper sells weapon packs for just his purpose. Since you ordered it overseas, though (and presumably don't want to pay shipping just to buy a weapons pack) you could try scoring some (shhh....) GW swords for this swap. (But you didn't hear it from me! We are on Reaper Forums after all... :poke:)

 

Take care,

Laszlo

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