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haldir

GW plastic--gluing?

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Picked up a couple of Skaven singles out of the Island of Blood (Skaven will always hold a place in my heart, what can I say :devil: ). Anyways, since I think the last GW mini I bought was either a metal one or waaay back when D&D was 2nd edition I was curious can you use regular modeling glue to assemble these?

 

I'd like to use Tamiya regular liquid cement for them but I wasn't sure due to GW has a glue & almost every person I've seen assembling GW stuff uses that.

 

thanks

RM

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Hey Randy, the Tamiya will work. Just to "feel safe" Find yourself a few pieces of sprue without numbering or lettering and glue 'em together with the Tamiya and observe the strength of the bond yourself to be sure it's to your satisfaction, eh?

 

That Tamiya is stinky stuff isn't it? :rolleyes:

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My husband has assembled at least half a dozen armies since I met him and he's always used plastic cement for the plastic stuff - smells awful, but holds great.

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I'd like to use Tamiya regular liquid cement for them but I wasn't sure due to GW has a glue & almost every person I've seen assembling GW stuff uses that.

 

That's because the existence of other manufacturors products is a bigger secret at GW than the location of the Black Library within the webway. Most of those people use the GW glue because they don't know that other products, like Zap a Gap or Taimiya Plastic Glue exists.

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That's because the existence of other manufacturors products is a bigger secret at GW than the location of the Black Library within the webway. Most of those people use the GW glue because they don't know that other products, like Zap a Gap or Taimiya Plastic Glue exists.

 

Sooooo true!! Oh wait you mean there are other paint brushes out there that I can use??? :devil:

 

 

Cool thanks for the info guys & gals. I wasn't sure if GW's plastic was the sort that you couldn't use regular modeling glue. I guess I've used Tamiya's stuff for so long that the smell doesn't bother me much.

 

RM

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Yea, I also use Testors glue. I can't testify that it's the strongest, I don't know for sure. But I do like how it more or less melts the plastic together, rather than just glues them. I would be inclined to say that creates a stronger bond. Especially when compared to sheering a super glue bond.

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Since Haldir asked if Tamiya worked, I kept it to that topic. However, now that we're on the topic of which is best... I've tested a few readily available plastic cements.

 

"Best" depends on the individual purchaser, but the criteria that I suspect most will consider are:

 

Evaporation time

Initial bond time

Complete bond time

Versatility (how many plastics it can bond)

Toxicity/Active Ingredients

 

The glues I've purchased and tested include (in alphabetical order) Plastruct Bondene, Plastruct Plastic Weld, Tamiya Cement, Tenax-7R (space age plastic welder), Testor's Model Master (black label), Testor's Plastic Cement (the clear liquid in a bottle w/a brush), Testor's Plastic Cement (red label, but similar container and needle applicator to the black label).

 

Plastruct Bondene -> quick, 5-10 seconds, same type to same type in same bond, high (dichloromethane)

Plastruct Plastic Weld -> quick, 15-20 seconds, different plastic types in same bond, high (MEK: Methyl Ethyl Ketone)

Tamiya Cement - quick, 5-10 seconds, untested & not on label, high (butyl acetate)

Tenax-7R - quick, 5-10 seconds, untested & not on label, high (I believe it to be MEK: Methyl Ethyl Ketone)

Testors Model Master (black label) - slow, 15-20 seconds, high (Xylene)

Testors Plastic Cement (liquid brush) quick, 15-20 seconds, high (Acetates and MEK: Methyl Ethyl Ketone)

Testors Plastic Cement (red label) slow, 15-20 seconds, high (Xylene)

 

For some reason I though there was a difference b/w the red and black label testors, but am not quickly seeing it.

 

I am also going to eventually purchase the Micro-mark MEK liquid cement sometime, but I really have enough for now. The only thing that'd change that is if I leave any of the liquids open & they evaporate... ugh...

 

One more criteria: Strength of bond - and well, I don't have anything that'll really measure this, so I've left it out of the information I've posted.

 

I've also got a new test that not all will be able to perform. It's the SST test. That is, the Starship Troopers the Miniatures Game test. Testors black and red label absolutely don't bond well with SST plastics, the rest seem to get the job done. Sooo, if you've got SST miniatures - try using those to do your tests.

 

I'm also going to see how well the MEK stuff works with my Alkemy figures as I believe testors acted funny/lacking with them as well.

 

Anyway -> er -> that's all!

 

Regards,

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