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Nathaniel

Round bases in Warlord 2nd Edition

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Really? It's that big of a deal?

 

Yeah. I think square bases usually look bad. I don't want miniatures in my collection that I think look bad. I don't want to fiddle with making sabot bases-- I did that before and didn't enjoy making them.

 

As for the other games you play actual base to base happens all the time. Failure to actually make contact can screw you in some situations. Figures getting tangled up is going to happen in every game. If you're worried about scratching your figures maybe you shouldn't game with them.

 

The issue is when figures get caught on one another and get into a disarray, fall over, etc.,. Not everyone is as dedicated when it comes to varnish and pinning as I am and I've seen people break miniatures when extracting a casualty when figures were all jammed together. I played games where you had to get into base to base for years. Then I played games where you don't. I think it's a really great feature not to have to fit models base to base when they often have weapons or limbs that go out beyond their bases.

 

I think you're missing out on a good game because you've made the bases a mountain when in fact it's an ant hill.

 

If the game is balanced based on 8 figures being able to engage one of the same size (so three from a single direction) and my basing only lets the opponent get in 6 (so two from a single direction), then that is quite the advantage for the 30mm round bases.

if you cant temporarily sticky tack a square base on it to be able to play, because it would be asthetically unappealing, well, then.. I guess you are right.

 

A small base in Warlord is 25mmx25mm. Round display style bases (like the ones lots of the Reaper Chronoscope line have) are 30mm circles. if I take a 30mm circle and put it on top of a 25mm square, I get 2.5mm of overhang on each side. So no other miniatures can be placed into base to base with my miniatures on the flat sides because of the size of my round bases.

 

But, I do appreciate that you at least came and asked about it.

 

 

My friend is excited about playing. I thought "Hey, cool, another thing I can use my fantasy miniatures with." I figured I'd at least ask.

 

So, maybe Warlord is not Nathaniel's game, 'cause he hates square bases or uses minis based such that quick sobots cannot be used. That would be too bad, because Warlord has a good game engine and point system that for most cases works very well and allows good fantasy skirmish play in a reasonable time frame.

 

Pretty much this. I bought the 1st edition Warlord game when it first came out, but never got around to playing it. Fantastic painting guide though. Then my friend got the rule book and asked me if I was interested. I rememberd "hey, yeah, I remember liking that game" and I figured I'd come find out if my existing collection would work.

 

 

I like Warlord. It used to be my bread and butter game. Now I play Malifaux and Pulp City more. I understand liking the melee radius and not having to move a bunch of figs to extract a dead guy or worry about messing up a painted figure.

 

Malifaux is something I just got into. There are a few reaper miniatures that will be making an appearance in my crews. There are some rules instances where you move into base to base, but Malifaux models stick off their bases less than other ranges and it's not like it's every time you fight that you go into base to base. And also Malifaux has no facing, so if you do have one weapon sticking a bit off, you just turn the model.

 

I know a guy that has the same aesthetic problem as you. He bought pink foam that was 3/8" thick and carved little 1" circles to set his round bases in. After cutting them out they were slightly larger than a standard 1" base, but not enough to matter. He then just based the rims of the squares to match the basing on the rounds. Granted that is a project that takes time, but so is painting and basing in general.

 

My issue is that my small guys are on 30mm bases, so 25mm sabots won't work. And my bigger guys are on 40mm and 50mm bases, so 37.5mm square sabots won't work either. So even if I did have the time to make sabots, my own bases will interfere with the game when people try to go base to base with my miniatures.

 

What I might do is take some of my figures from my painting que that I haven't based yet and put long pins in their feet. Then make it so the miniature itself comes off of the base. Or holes in their feet and pins coming up from the base. Then the miniature itself would swap basing. I have a combination of nefsokar and wargods of aegyptus miniatures that I haven't based yet which could end up getting removable bases. I've done this before for a few miniatures, but never for the amount needed for a warlord army.

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The issue is when figures get caught on one another and get into a disarray, fall over, etc.,. Not everyone is as dedicated when it comes to varnish and pinning as I am and I've seen people break miniatures when extracting a casualty when figures were all jammed together. I played games where you had to get into base to base for years. Then I played games where you don't. I think it's a really great feature not to have to fit models base to base when they often have weapons or limbs that go out beyond their bases.

 

The best for you is NOT to play any game. Just lock all your painted minis in a display. It does not matter whether they are on a round or square bases. When you use them in a game, they will eventually get jammed into other figures, dropped, knocked over or worst of all, stolen. If it has not happened to you yet, then you simply have not played that many games despite your years of experience.

 

Things that potentially can happen: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/368661.page

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The best for you is NOT to play any game. Just lock all your painted minis in a display. It does not matter whether they are on a round or square bases. When you use them in a game, they will eventually get jammed into other figures, dropped, knocked over or worst of all, stolen. If it has not happened to you yet, then you simply have not played that many games despite your years of experience.

 

Things that potentially can happen: http://www.dakkadakk...ist/368661.page

 

You seem like you're taking my choice not to rebase my models in order to play a game you like very personally. Enough to tell me I shouldn't play any game. blink.gif

 

Yes, figures do get jammed, dropped, etc.,. I assemble and paint my miniatures assuming they are gaming pieces.

 

I've played games where miniatures MUST be in base to base as a common part of the game.

 

I've played games where miniatures do not have to be in base to base as a common part of the game.

 

The first kind has more jams, falls, bumps, etc., than the second because the miniatures get closer as part of the playing of the game. This should be obvious, but I guess if it points out a flaw in a game you like, you take that as your cue to go on attack mode?

 

Have fun with that. I'll be elsewhere. rolleyes.gif

 

...

 

Thanks to everyone who took the time to answer my questions!

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Having just finished reading the rulebook, I do not see any reason why you can't base on round bases and stop your figs just out of base to base but declare it in base to base (as long as you have the movement to reach base to base). On the round base question, the rules do say to use the standard square bases, but the only reason for having a standard base size is "having a common base size increases the speed and ease of play." So, if players agree that they prefer round or are willing to keep in mind while playing that with square it is possible to get a few more guys in base to base and if the chance comes up for someone to mob someone on a round base with eight guys allow up to eight guys to mob him even if they don't all fit.

 

Not requiring base to base contact fixes that problem anyway. If you agree beforehand that everyone stops 1/2 inch out, it should leave enough room for eight to fit in close combat. It says in the rulebook that if the features of the model (such as spears, tails, etc.) prevent the model from coming in base to base that you can stop the figure outside of base to base and declare that it is in base to base. So this should cover you if you don't want your figs getting tangled.

 

The only problem you would have using these houserules is if you went to a tournament, but for playing the game with your friends, this should be fine. Don't stop yourself from picking up the game just because of the previous responses on this forum. This ruleset seems to be very flexible to houseruling so you can make it the game you want to play.

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