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Painting with Milliput?


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I read a tutorial in which the author was talking about prepping the mini by mixing up some Milliput and combining it with water to make a paste. At which point, he painted this paste onto the mini in order to get a really smooth surface.

 

I tried using greenstuff last night, but it didn't seem to be water soluble after being mixed.

 

My question is, can this same technique be done using greenstuff?

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Welcome to the board!

 

To my knowledge, GS is not capable of doing this on it's own. It's more of a sticky chewing gum with memory material while milliput is a crumbly pottery clay mixture that breaks down in water.

 

Regards,

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Little known "secret" about greenstuff. You can get it to a paste/putty like consistency by dissolving it in Polystyrene cement. The same stuff you use to glue your plastic models or minis together.

 

Get a glass or metal lid, spaghetti sauce lid or something. Then put your mixed up greenstuff in there and start adding Polystyrene model glue. Then add more to it and stir it as you go with a metal tool. Eventually you'll have a paste or putty to apply to the model and brush around. Let it set up a bit then you can use mineral spirits (white spirits, turpentine substitutes etc...) to do some brush sculpting (gonna kill your brushes doing this) if you need to get that stuff smoothed into the cracks.

 

I don't use this technique as it's too messy/nasty for me. I just use Magic Sculpt and alcohol/water to fill joins, but it can be done with green stuff and the right solvent in a pinch.

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ApoxieSculpt, which I've seen on sale at Hobby Town, is also a water soluble putty that can be made into a slurry and used like Milliput or MagiSculpt. The nice thing about those products is you can use that same property when you are using them to bulk out an integral base or fill a join and use water to get a smooth connection between the putty and the surface. Much easier than doing that with greenstuff, and even if you don't get it quite perfect they're sandable. Greenstuff is usually better for fine work, though.

 

Also if you're painting a mini and find the surface of the basecoat looks a little rougher than you'd like, paint a coat or two of Reaper Master Series sealer over it and then another coat of paint and you'll have a much smoother surface. This and the milliput slurry are best over large smooth surfaces like cloaks and so on, both methods have the potential to fill in detail on areas that have it.

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As I understand it, greenstuff was originally developed for plumbing applications, hence it is waterproof. Interesting technique with the miliput, though. About how much did he use?

 

It didn't specify how much to use. It was more of a use your best judgement depending upon area to cover; keeping in mind that you'll be brushing it on, so the consistency should be "paintable".

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  • 2 weeks later...

IIRC somewhere in my surfing, I found where someone waters down milliput to an extremely thin consistency to fill in rough spots or something. Does anyone do this? How? Why? Links are fine. Just curious. I think it was to start with a much smoother miniature to have a much smoother finish. (If this is just plain wrong, I don't want to lead others astray, so please indicate no to do this.)

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The automaton metals tutorial? Yeah that really perplexed me for about a year. I've found it's all about using a hard stirrer as opposed to a brush, some heat to increase rate of reaction and the right mix of water, will produce a pretty paintable paste. That said, I I almost never do it (when I'm painting at all) because it's too time consuming,

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