Jump to content

You can get rid of "frosty" miniatures without repainting.


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 5
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

If someone does an experiment - FOR SCIENCE! - then please also experiment with cleaning the oil back off; I suspect it will go back to frosty. So my theory is that this works a bit like using a subsequent gloss coat for the same purpose.


Ya gotta be careful what you ask for sometimes...




Seriously, if there's one thing they taught us in art school is don't mix oils with acrylics... You can paint one over the other (oil over completely dried acrylic), so in theory this would work. BUT I still wouldn't trust olive oil.


Olive oil is not really suitable for use with art materials. It goes rancid and/or doesn't dry completely. Here's a direct quote form the Smithsonian's museum conservation page:


drying oils
: Oils which have the property of forming a solid, elastic surface when exposed to air in thin layers. The drying oils most commonly used in oil painting were linseed oil, walnut oil and poppy oil. Examples of
non-drying oil unsuitable for painting are
olive oil
and almond oil."

I agree with you that the olive oil they used probably filled in the "frosting" in the varnish. I would imagine it would wash right off, though, unless it was sticking into micro-bubbles in the frosted varnish.


If any oil remains on the surface it will "dry out", but actually leave a residue. Now what does oil like to attract? Dirt! Dust will stick to it the remaining oil...


I don't have a perfect solution for frosty varnish, but I'd try a brush-on gloss acrylic varnish before I used olive oil. The brush-on will fill the frosting just as well, but once the binder dries the acrylic will plasticize, making a molecular lock. It will not remain wet or tacky unless there's some kind of chemical reaction between the binders of the spray-on and the brush on varnishes. (I've had that happen once, with Krylon UV varnish sprayed over brush-on "plastic" paints from Michael's.)


I prefer using a lacquer or alcohol-based brush-on because it doesn't have the same style of binder as acrylic-binders (Reaper, Liquitex, etc.) It will not dissolve the previous layer. Caveat - don't use them over each other! I sprayed Testor's Dull Coat over Semi-Gloss once. They're both lacquer-based, so the Dull Coat dissolved the semi-gloss to make... demi-gloss? It didn't look good...


Something I saw on Golden's archival varnish site clicked though:

"Frosted" Appearance


Substrate was still too absorbent when Satin or Matte Varnish was applied resulting in the matting agents remaining exposed on surface. Allow the coat to dry, and apply a gloss layer to return clarity. Apply additional gloss layers if the surface still appears to be absorbing varnish. Once the surface is sealed with gloss, return to applying desired sheen coats."

That makes perfect sense! (And corroborates the "gloss varnish, then respray" method.) If the underlying acrylic isn't fully dry it can act like a primer, sucking up some of the binder which is keeping the matting agent (aka talc aka frost) in suspension.


Finally, I died when I saw this! I will never think about shaking my can the same way again...





  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...