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Crackle Paint tests


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When I was reading through Massive Voodoo last week I saw a write up on Distress Crackle Paint and ordered some off of Amazon and thought I'd share some thoughts from a few experiments that Massive Voodoo didn't cover.


I picked up two different colors, Picket Fence White, and Rock Candy Clear.


The basics, if you don't want to read the Massive Voodoo article, is this paint is designed to crack when used. The thicker the paint the larger the cracks. Pretty straight forward. The Massive Voodoo guys used it for dry mud and other cracked surfaces (there's a cool paint up of a cracked surf board).


Both the paints are a slightly different consistency, with the clear paint flowing better (meaning it settled better if left alone), and neither are as pasty as the version shown in the massive voodoo article. Not sure if the two I ordered are newer blends of the medium or if it's just a difference in the colors.


First off I painted a few different test amounts in both colors:




And they turned out like so (note I ran some washes over the clear so you could see the cracks)


post-6838-13189919181626_thumb.jpg post-6838-1318991929876_thumb.jpg


The thin layers I painted, which I was trying to come as close as I could to a "base coat" of a regular paint but their giant brush made it a little hard, didn't really produce much in the way of cracks for either color but the white paint did produce some nice textures. The clear paint cracks from underneath so even though you can see the cracks you can't actually do anything with them unlike the white paint because the surface is smooth.


I've found that you'll need to paint more on then you'd think you'd actually need to get any desirable effect--especially with the clear.


If you want some really rough "peeling" like effect you'll need to paint the white over a section of white that's actually dried as in the pictures below. The Clear doesn't behave in the same way.


post-6838-13189923117784_thumb.jpg post-6838-13189923225473_thumb.jpg


Here's the same technique with a base which looks good but I don't think that it'll hold up with any gaming piece as most of the paint has actually pealed away from the base




What interested me the most in these paints is the possibility of the clear paint being used as an ice effect so I poured a bunch into a mold, waited a day and got this:


post-6838-13189927705107_thumb.jpg post-6838-13189932579996_thumb.jpg


(note I did the same test with the white paint and it never leveled or cracked that much)


Which are some interesting chunks of ice that you could dry brush to get a frosted look (the dry brushing isn't that great as I didn't have these glued onto something)




I've got a few other base ideas that I'm trying out for the clear ice look, and will add them to this post once they're done.

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I wonder if the base would turn out better if you primed it or laid down some kind of material first? Like foam or cork?


It still might not hold on its own so well but probably enough to get a decent mold of it. Once it's molded, you'd be able to crank them out in resin with no problem.

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You can also find some pretty cheap crackle stuff in the nail polish sections. I've seen the effects on a few kids at work and a couple of the staff and it's pretty neat. Not sure how well it would behave with other paints, but might also be a cheap alternative with lots of color variety.

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I don't think priming it will help, but I'm sure you could put some white glue down and apply some pressure to get it to stick.


The reason I don't think priming will work is because I just got finished making a base with the clear that had a base coat underneath and it actually cracked that paint. It's pretty hard to see, couldn't really get it to show up in the picture but there are cracks throughout the blue showing the tape and black base underneath.




I applied a dry brush of white to the dried clear paint (you need to have more paint on your brush then you'd normally use for dry brushing, I couldn't get any to stick unless I did so) and have this cool ice base now. I'm sure the process can be improved but I think once you add some fake snow (I don't have anything to use for that right now) it will look really good.



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One more experiment base. I did a base coat of P3 frostbite but found that it didn't offer enough contrast with the white drybrusing so I stained it with some heavily watered down turquoise ink and re-dry brushed it. For the ice chunks I used some of the broken bits I showed in the original post.




I've got one more base that I'm working on not sure if it will be done today or not.

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It's fairly brittle if it's in large chucks, like the rocks in my base above, but I've had no problem drilling through the amount I've put on the bases--just don't press too hard.


I haven't tried drilling one of the larger chunks but considering I can easily break apart a chunk with just my fingers I don't think it will withstand a drill unless you're really careful.

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