Wumby Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 So, I've been told that once I'm employed again, full-time, I can purchase new paints...a whole set. (Stay at home dad by choice, and now realizing how tough it is to get employed again.) I'm still using, what's still usable of my 10 year old GW paints. Right around that ten year mark, I discovered Reaper Pro Paints, and could tell a difference in my painting level. Yay! I don't have many of the Pro Paints, but I've also picked up some RMS, and a tube or two of Vallejo. Each line has its merits, but I'm discovering that the formula for ProPaints and the Vallejo seems to complement my current skill level of painting. I'm a Reaper fan-boy, and love the triads, yet I'm more pleased with my results with my two vallejo game colors. When the miraculous, "you're hired" conversation happens, I'm stuck. I like my current end-product without the RMS, but feel that the RMS would challenge me to improve. Am I making up excuses to be a fan-boy supporter, by feeling that the RMS would challenge me to improve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshuaslater Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 A conundrum. I have the Reaper paints, and still mix in GW, Vallejo, Privateer, etc., but the gist is, for the whole set, go with the Reaper paints. The triads are helpful, and get you improving from whatever level you start from. I'm still what I would call a tabletop painter, but my tabletop paint is getting better from the Reaper squeeze bottles, the people posting in the showoff section, and practice..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wumby Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 I'm tabletop too. I throw the mix in too. I like GW foundations still, and their washes. I was leaning toward the RMS just because of the implicit force to make me improve with my thinning and lining. I don't think I'll ever be a purist, "one brand or nothing" kind of person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxden Racing Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 I go with what works...and with my skillset what it is (and what it is, is fairly sad), RPP struck the balance perfectly. I've also been known to use everything from GW paints to even AC Moore generics in a pinch, but this is what I keep coming back to. As my stocks run out, I'll be replacing with RMS. I've thought about picking up the whole set, but I go through paint so slowly it's not worth it unless I up and up give all my old stuff away to an aspiring painter. Some of my pots are going on 8 years old now, just because I don't use that color very often. But when I need it, I'm glad it's there... I'd like to try P3 sometime...I hear their stuff is nice, but have never been in a place to do so. As far as improving yourself from RPP, RMS or P3 would be a good next step. Everything I'm told is that they'll force you to up your game for brush and flow control, and are supposedly a lot more conducive to advanced techniques like glazing, shading, and wet blending than their thicker cousins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercius Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 I love RMS...I have about 80 of them. The triads are nice and the paints fit my painting style. That being said, the RMS line are all very thin to begin with and are made for layering it seems. If you use techniques like two brush blending or just like working with thicker paint then the RMS line will be challenging. I work with lots of layers so it worked perfect from the start with me, although it has definately forced me to improve more, using colors outside of the triads and whatnot. I say if you want to get better in laering and glazing styles of painting RMS is the way to go. As far as two brush blending and thicker paint goes, I have a few of the Privateer Press paint pots and love them also, there is most definately a tool for each style it seems, you just need to pick and choose what works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serenity Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Unless you're planning to paint a lot, like you were going to do army after army, a whole set is really overkill in my opinion. However, if you have the cash and won't miss it, it doesn't really hurt to have them around. Personally, I really like the MSP line for layering. It thins very well and doesn't require excessive shaking. It is generally well-behaved on the palette, though some colors separate a little. Will it make you a better painter than Vallejo? Somehow I doubt that. There are painters using GW, P3 and Vallejo that do unbelievable work. I don't know how many MSPs you've tried, but I say go with what works for you. I've seen a seller on eBay who auctions sets of MSPs, around 50+ paints, not complete sets. The prices I've seen have been rather low, too, so low I've wondered if he's taking a loss. The MSPs don't require a lot of maintenance, but they do require some, so keep that in mind. You'll probably want some kind of paint shaker if you go with anything like a full set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themudhead Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 GW are $3.70 while Reaper are $3.29. After 5 paint pots the difference is already $1.50. You'll need 50 or so... do the math. I'd go with the Reaper. I started painting minis with testors enamels. Then got into mixing testors with grenadier acrylics and quickly found you can only layer them... then got some Ral Partha paint pots. Those mixed with grenadier and covered the model much nicer than the testors. Then I started with GW pots. Those mixed OK too but were not fine enough and dried out too quickly (they design them that way to make you buy more). I tried Vallejo and those worked great. Nice coverage and easy to mix but as it turns out they are hard to find in stores stateside. Now I have gotten rid of all those dry GW/Ral Partha/P3 paperweights, and by simply switching from those to Reaper, my painting has gotten way better and my pocketbook is heavier. They don't dry out either (well they do but it takes years). Also, you should invest in some nice sable brushes (kolinsky sable if you can afford). You will immediately notice a difference. Reaper is good, Reaper is wise... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wumby Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Right now the thicker P3's, RPP's, and Vallejo's is where I see better results. I don't like pots at all and prefer droppers. The thin-ness of the RMS is what gives me some trouble. I want to develop my layering techniques. So I feel that RMS is the way to go...I'm still learning to thin paints too. GW is too thick, Vallejo/Pro Paints/P3's are just right, and RMS is too thin for me...right now. I have approximately 15 RMS's and I do love them. I'm not good at mixing so I like the pre-selected triads to help with layering and blending. So, still sort of conundrum for me. I'm just garnering opinions from others, so I do appreciate replies thus far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wumby Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 @ the mud head. I'm moving away from GW except for some washes, P3's bought 'em and don't use 'em. So I'm torn between V and RMS. Whenever I am able to get new paint, I will pick up higher quality brushes than what I own, and will find someone local who is just getting into the hobby to pass on my old paints that still are functional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herzogbrian Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 @ the mud head. I'm moving away from GW except for some washes, P3's bought 'em and don't use 'em. So I'm torn between V and RMS. Whenever I am able to get new paint, I will pick up higher quality brushes than what I own, and will find someone local who is just getting into the hobby to pass on my old paints that still are functional. I don't know...GW Chaos Black is hard to beat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wumby Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 I don't know...GW Chaos Black is hard to beat. ...that and Devlan Mud, Badab Black (washes) and Mithril Silver. I think they'll always have a spot in my supplies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
"That Guy" Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 @ the mud head. I'm moving away from GW except for some washes, P3's bought 'em and don't use 'em. So I'm torn between V and RMS. Whenever I am able to get new paint, I will pick up higher quality brushes than what I own, and will find someone local who is just getting into the hobby to pass on my old paints that still are functional. I don't know...GW Chaos Black is hard to beat. I find Chaos black to pasty and rubbery. It does not lend itself well to layering at all in my opinion. Good coverage though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshuaslater Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 When Nigel Tufnel asks, "How much more black can it get?", the answer is CHAOS BLACK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxden Racing Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Chaos Black: For when a black hole itself isn't dark enough. If your GW paint's rubbery, it's evaporated a bit. Thin it out a tad and it'll be back to a workable consistency. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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