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03419 Vaeloth, hellborn paladin


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jeesh, Derek that first WiP is unreal. Even at that stage, the skin has so much color & character, it's like his eye are gonna open & he says "Help me get free of this stone spell" ::):


Love the colors, they aren't "fire'y" but it lends a hand at the origin of the character + they look worn & natural looking


Love the progress so far.



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@feltisgirl (Gail): Thanks. I had trouble highlighting to this degree, myself, until recently (after 20 years of painting). Everything in its time! Neat and clean painting first, then smooth transitions, then "other topics" (contrast, colors, etc.).



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#5: Working upward...


I paint the rest of the plate armor and the top of the shield, and I punch up the highlight on the tail tip. They are "done for now", but I know that I used too much of the Orange Brown. His orange eyes are supposed to be a focal point, but the orange on the armor is too strong now. Maybe I should make his eyes redder, instead. Anyway, I like the bronze effect on his right calf, so I'll use glazes to make the rest of the armor more like that leg, after I get the reds in place. At least I know how to make a bright orange-copper if I want that effect on another figure! All it would need is the final pink glints of reflected light. ::P:

I paint the handle and strap of the shield, with Basic Dirt, Sandy Brown, and Creamy Ivory.

I put a basecoat of Chestnot Gold on the sword's crossguard and pommel.


Two more hours, total 6.5.





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#6: Fur and leather.


Using Golden Skin, I paint a finer fur texture onto the hellhound pelt. I will glaze it with some other browns, reds, and oranges.

I also paint the eyes of the hellhound.

I paint the interior of the pelt with Mahogany Brown and something light (maybe Golden Skin), but it looks too dull and purple. Easily fixed later.

I start bringing up the reds (the skirt, upper sleeves, shield, and sword) from Mahogany Brown, using Clotted Red and Rust Brown. The paint in my bottle of Clotted Red is very shiny. I use a stippling technique to apply the highlights, to simulate a rough texture for the leather and, well, "magic" on the sword.


This is another hour or so, total 7.5.





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#7: Finishing off the unpainted areas.


I highlight the coat of scales, the sword hilt, and the shield-studs with Chestnut Gold, Buckskin Pale, Golden Skin, and Creamy Ivory. The small details on his shoulders and the belt-buckle are the same.

The yellow edge of the sword is Buckskin Pale, with Chestnut Gold shadows and Golden Blonde highlights.

The outer part of the belt-buckle is Chestnut Gold and Golden Highlight.

I bring up the reds some more, with Rosy Skin mixed with Rust Brown, and some Phoenix Red and Blood Red glazes.

I paint his hair... with whatever I happen to have on my palette. I think there's some Mahogany Brown (dark red), Rust Brown, Orange Brown, and Golden Skin. Then I paint the hair-tie with my "brass" colors.

I glaze the pelt with Muddy Brown (at the middle), and Phoenix Red and Orange Brown (at the edges).

I glaze in the inside of the pelt with red and brown, since the purple-crimson didn't look right.

I also glaze his horns with Chestnut Gold, since they looked too cold against the rest of the figure now. I reestablish the highlights with Golden Highlight. I also raise the highlights on the back of the horns with Russet Brown and Golden Highlight.

I paint the interior of the shield with Basic Dirt and Brown Sand, plus a little Golden Highlight mixed in at the end. I use the same colors on the belt.

The grip of the sword is more of a ruby red -- the same paints as the other red areas, but without so much Rust Brown and no Phoenix Red.


I think I'm up to about 10 hours.





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#8: Attach the arm, put the figure on the base.


I glue the arm into the socket.

I use Green Stuff to disguise the joint, by extending the upper sleeve a bit.

I attach the whole figure to the plastic base with the same batch of Green Stuff.

Then I sculpt a rocky texture for the base with ProCreate.

I can see that the "copper" upper part of the shield doesn't match the rest of the armor, but I'll bring them into line when I'm darkening the armor.


This takes about an hour.


So... that ends my rapid-fire updates from the Christmas weekend. ::D:





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#9: Paint the base, and glaze the armor (a lot).


I paint over the Green Stuff on the newly assembled sleeve, to match the cloth sleeve (dark purple-brown) and the leather sleeve (red).


I paint the base in muted purple tones. The rocks are Cinder Brown (the shadow color of the discontinued Volcano Brown triad -- a deep reddish-brown with purple in it), brought up with Rust Brown and Fair Shadow, and shaded with Brown Liner. The field (a liquid of some kind?) is a quick wet-blend of Brown Liner up to Dusky Skin.


That was about an hour of painting.


Then, on the armor, I glaze and glaze and glaze. About two hours' worth. I don't remember ever doing so much, since most of my NMM is steel or gold, and I get those right without much additional work, but apparently my sensibilities were off with this bronze/copper color, especially the size of my highlights with the Orange Brown paint. So, now I apply very thinned Chestnut Gold and Harvest Brown and Chestnut Brown and Russet Brown and Brown Liner. This resets the overall color to a more golden orange with darker shadows. I also use these colors to paint the top of the shield, and unify it with the rest of the armor. I haven't given final highlights to the armor, so it doesn't quite have that shiny metallic gleam, but I'll do that at the end.


You might notice that the reds on the shield and skirt are less saturated. I repainted them with a gradation from Mahogany Brown to Violet Red to Rust Brown this time, without the shiny Clotted Red.


The total so far is about 14 hours. Almost done!





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#10: Add some green, final highlights, and freehand (or maybe not...).


I knew in my original color-study that I wanted to include some green for under-reflections, playing off the reds.

I add Olive Green, Pale Olive, and Field Green on the lower parts of the figure -- taking artistic license in the location and intensity. I add some green spots (the apparent source of the lighting) into the flat part of the base with a mix of Jade Green and Pale Olive. The overall effect should be subtle, since I don't want the base drawing too much attention from the figure.


I also add some final bright highlights with Linen White.


I try to add freehand (orange symbols) at the front corners of the skirt and the face of the shield, as I showed in my color-study, but they look cluttered on the actual figure. After an hour of sketching alternative symbols, and another hour trying to implement a few options, I simply repaint the skirt and shield with a rougher "leathery" texture.

I could call this figure completed, but I'll do a few quick studies of freehand by painting over the photos electronically, and if something looks good then I'll paint it on the actual figure.


Does anything else stand out as needing to be changed/fixed?

Hmmm... now that I think of it, maybe I should repaint his left elbow-plate with the more intricate "textured brass" technique that I used on his knees and the foot-plates, since I didn't give him any brass plates above the knees.





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Since you asked...I was thinking the green comes off as just a patina on the coppery/bronze-y colors. Perhaps a violet or blue would be just as subtle? Just a thought. Also, the yellow sword blade could use a bit more detail. It looks a bit flat. And the wolf-y eye is a cats eye gem... maybe a highlight/shine to help it sparkle? dunno. Just some thoughts.


Love your painting, DKS. It is an inspiration.


PS. Maybe add some drama by changing the wolf skin to hellhound skin...

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