Kuro Cleanbrush Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 The base looks sweet! Can't wait to see your mighty warrior on top of it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeySloth Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 Ask and you shall receive. Sorry I haven't been updating this, I was hesitant to post just because I was debating on if I should bother with OSL or not. Since I'm starting a few new minis tonight I probably wont any time soon. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kuro Cleanbrush Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 He looks totally awesome!!! The aura on his base was really a perfect fit for him. It reminds me of when a video game boss is charging up his super attack and everyone's yelling "Get outta the way! No, no, no! Get outta the..." BOOM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeySloth Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 That's what I wanted to go for so I'm glad it came across. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjacobson Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 I think that "Power-up" effect would work nicely with this as well: 03600: Praying Paladin 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeySloth Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 @mjacobson it really would. I'm hoping some others will pay around with it, like Kuro, as it seams that people on this board do much better jobs with my ideas then I do--which is cool. And now on to my next few miniatures. I'm doing Three Chronoscope figures at the same time: Invisible Man, Sherlock and Watson. As I get parts of them done I'll post pictures of the relevant figure and I'm starting off with The Invisible Man. I've always like this figure so when I wanted some Victorian figures I needed to get him as well. The coat is P3 rucksack tan shaded down with reaper muddy soil and a mix of reaper muddy soil and reaper brown liner. For highlights I'm using Vallejo Desert yellow with reaper leather white and the final highlight being leather highlight. I over shaded a bit, as I tend to do, but since I want to try and work on my highlighting I'm claiming back more then I normally do which is leading to some interesting messes for me as I normally don't have to rework parts as much as I am now. You can see how dark my original shades were in the front image here, where I'm not finished blending, and the final blending and highlighting on the second image that's the back of the miniature. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeySloth Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 Things are progressing, though a little slowly. I've dropped the mid-tone highlight as it wasn't adding anything and instead am just focusing more on blending. Speaking of which I've brought down the shades even more--which took me way too long at first so I started reclaiming areas with a less watered down base coat which helped speed up the progress. Also, because of the amount of blending I'm doing, I've found that doing shades and highlights on first then blending them both at the same time saves me a lot of time (probably be several hours). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeySloth Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 Made some good progress today as the front of this miniature is quite the pain to paint as there's so many small folds that are quite difficult to make look right. Still need to finish the top third of the front then move on to the back and arms -- which I'm hoping will go quicker then the bottom half. Sorry for the blurry picture with this washed out picture. And the lower back is finished 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeySloth Posted April 21, 2012 Author Share Posted April 21, 2012 Still trudging along on the Invisible man, just have an arm and a half left, and I thought I'd spare everyone another shot of shaded trench coat and instead have the start of Sherlock since I needed a break from painting tan myself. I needed to paint his face and hair before moving on to his coat, which will be the same colors as above, and decided to try out something a little different for the skin on him. I'm painting some of these figures to try out the Empire of the Dead scenario from West Wind and since it's kind of a dark Victorian game I'm going for something that evokes that feel. I stared off with my normal blueish gray undercoat, going more gray then I have in the past, then brought it up with a orangish tinted flesh. For the shade I used a glaze of the blue\gray I used at the start and then a maroon flesh shade that Reaper had sent out as a freebie recently (many of you have this shade yourself) to give the shaded areas a blue to purple cast to them. I then used some Reaper fair skin mixed with the maroon flesh (should have used rose skin I guess) as the highlight. I'm really intrested in what people think of the look. I should probably take one more from the top where the highlights are more visible. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeySloth Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 I've finally put aside the invisible man to work more on Sherlock as there are some parts of IM that I'm just not happy with but I haven't been able to fix despite several hours of work so forcing myself to move along is for the best. I think my problems are that I can't get P3 Rucksack Tan to layer up to as orange as it is as a base coat even thought when wet, and when in the bottle, it's not as orange. Also I'm trying out a light box made out of a milk jug, you've probably seen this on other forums, and the purple tissue paper was the only thing I had that contrasted well and didn't require me to cut up something nicer. If I can get this to work as well as others have I'll get a better background. The pictures are a little blurry in parts but it's a WIP so I think it's OK. Plus I took like 20 pictures of each of these and didn't want to set everything back up for a re-shoot. For Sherlock I'm planning on the lamp providing light so I'm trying to shade in a way that it will make sense which is slowing me down. I love how the shoulder of the arm not holding the lantern turned out and have the top part of the back done. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kuro Cleanbrush Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Whew! I've finally got back on the forums after a busy week or so, and it looks like you've really been working hard! The trenchcoats are looking really great; your blending work is very nice, and the transition from dark to light looks quite reasonable (i.e. you succeeded in your goal of not overshading, in my opinion). Also, I really think that Sherlock's face turned out excellent too! Ever since you mentioned how Ren-period painters used blue hues for skin shading, I've been keeping an eye out for it. I'd never noticed it before, but you are completely right! Lastly, I'd comment on the flesh tones of the Invisible Man, but I'm having a hard time seeing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeySloth Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 Thanks. I'm just a little frustrated as I know I can do better blending but I think that I just need to learn how do deal with these off-white\light brown colors as they have always caused me some trouble and it may just be my color selections for shading and highlighting that's throwing me off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeySloth Posted April 26, 2012 Author Share Posted April 26, 2012 Well I think I finally got this figure out, only took me two or so hours tonight of trying different things. What ended up working is having a thicker glaze to start the initial blending then use a thinner glaze to soften areas and introduce more shades between the base and shadow. Not sure if I like this as it's more paint to manage but it works. Now I just need to see if the same works for highlighting (did I mention I don't like highlighting?). The area in the picture with this is the section of coat under the arm. Sorry for a pic with shadows and light reflections as I'm still messing around with the light box milk jug and it was bright enough that you could barley see any shading. Not sure if that means I've got too much light or that I need to intensify the colors--but they look fine by eye so it's probably the former. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeySloth Posted April 28, 2012 Author Share Posted April 28, 2012 Decided to take a break from these and fix up the Maguns that I was working on two months ago. The main thing that needed work was the cloak. Not quite done but I fixed most of it, which was hard because most of my blues are bad (some bad P3 paint I guess). The image on the left is the new, the right was the original. I still need to figure out what to do with the gold though, as it's still just doesn't look right. So any suggestions are welcome. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeySloth Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 I can't seam to stick to one project lately as I decided to join in a friendly paint competition elsewhere since I was running the one here and I think people wouldn't appreciate if I entered in my own contest. Anyway here's my Goblin Prophet by Rackham I over did the cloak a bit, as it took me forever to do all the blending and shading--but it looks good. I need to clean up the face a bit and do the hands but I have the leather and wood mostly done in these photos. Also I'm using Photoshop to bring this up to the correct brightness and colors, as I was tired of my photo's shown here not looking right, so that's why the second image looks over exposed. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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