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Yes. I know many mini painters have great success with the cheapest automotive primers, but I'm sold recently on the Army Painter primer. Black primer, that is. You can get it at about ten bucks for a can, which, although costlier than the other stuff out there, seems to deliver a smooth finish on everything I've primed, from humid, jungle Philly summers, to low temerature winters with low humidity.

 

I've tried Armory, GW, Krylon, and others whose names I've forgotten, but never had to strip Army Painter off of a model and start over.

 

I'm sure others can help you decide; that's just my take on it.

 

Cheers.

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I have been using Tamiya Fine White primer. It is a Japanese primer formulated especially for fine models and is what many pro painters use. It works in extreme circumstances. I've primed with it in freezing conditions, it very humid conditions, and dry conditions. It always leaves a nice smooth finish without eliminating details. My only complaint is that it only primes, and does not always fill/smooth over, pinholes. It just primers them and leaves them as detail. I have trouble getting paint into them due to water surface tension (I should prep my mini better to get rid of these).

 

I recommend the Tamiya. I'm sure you can get some through Reapers online store but I don't know for sure... Reaper paints are the best.

 

As to your painting, keep up the good work. I think you are to a point that you just need to practice more. Also, try and paint on a smaller scale. Really get down and look closer at the mini. For instance, the scales you painted on the kobolds are too far apart and too large. They look as if they are huge dots instead of scales (you may also want to have a good set of kolinsky sable tipped brushes).

 

As always, bring your highlights lighter and your shadows darker.

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FWIW, Krylon White is what I've been using and it's worked really well for me. A lot of the Craft paints have really bad "tooth" to them so they don't hold up very well. They also tend to have a much coarser pigment and a higher binder to pigment ratio than good quality hobby/art paints, and as a consequence trying to use them for drybrushing, and particularly washes doesn't work very well. Drybrushing will go "chalky" pretty quickly and the washes tend to break down and leave watermarks. I like to use Liquitex or Windsor Newton artists paints for washes because they have really dense pigment so you can thin the tar out of them and still get really good results. They're hard to use for basecoats cause it takes forever to get a smooth coat, but for washes and glazes I really like them.

 

Michael

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I like floquil primer, but each person has a favorite. I will boldly state I think there is not better matte sealer than Testors Dull coat. It takes the shine out and I find it is such fine particles that I can use it while painting. For instance, if I finish up all of the face and other skin on the mini Before I start on the clothing/armor etc, I may seal the mini with a light coat of testers dull coat. It creates a protective level for the work you have finished that will allow you to clean up a fresh (still wet) accidental brush stroke on a finished area without messing up the finished paint underneath. It is a dream in a can.

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Hi there Zabby!

 

You know if you can't buy a big batch of paints, you can buy a basic starter set and mix your colors by hand. I know that this seems really "unfun", but it taught me a lot about colors and will save you grip tons of cash starting out. Plus, if you don't want to mix them by hand every time you paint, you can buy some really cheap capped mixing wells from a craft store and save your mixed paints for multiple miniatures. The capped wells come in packs of 8 to 12, depending on size and cost under 2 dollars.

 

As to Primers, you will want to stay away from Krylon or anything that doesn't have a fine mist tip. I know that they aren't cheap, but I have had excellent results with Games Workshop primers, and more recently with the Privateer Press primers. They are fantastic. If you aren't painting a large quantity of minis at once, a single can should last you some time.

 

Great start by the way! Stay motivated!

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Hi Zabby,

 

Great job on the miniatures; that is one heck of a start to the hobby! I really like colour scheme and the highlighting you've done on the wizard. As others have mentioned, experimenting with washes will do wonders for the shading.

 

As for primer, I'm going to muddy the waters and disagree with Fitz by warning you off of GW primer, which is grossly overpriced and no better quality, in my experience, than any other. Army Painter primer is good, and I often use Krylon myself and have had very good results. Also, Reaper makes good brush-on primer, which I generally prefer except when priming large batches or big models. As you can see there are as many opinions as there are painters, so you'll probably just have to experiment and see what works best for you.

 

Cheers!

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Great looking work! Love to see new artists to mini painting get on here and you are off to a great start! I have to disagree with a bit of the advice above...I have had HORRIBLE experiences with the Army painter primer. May have been a bad batch or 2, but Krylon gray has always been perfect and gone on smooth and fills in well especially with the directional nozzle and is half the cost! I would go with Gray just to keep your minis from being too bright, but if you plan to dip them then you may want that brighter look. Also, the Krylon matte varnish is a staple of my painting supplies. Overall it comes down to trial and error and what works best for you. There are planty of fantastic options that don't cost absurd amounts of money and are easily available at your local 24 hour store for those 3 a.m. "Oh crap I'm outta primer!" paint binges! Best of luck and keep up the great work!

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As for primer, I'm going to muddy the waters and disagree with Fitz by warning you off of GW primer, which is grossly overpriced and no better quality, in my experience, than any other.

 

Furo might be right about the GW primer. I know they went through a really bad time a few years back with their manufacturer. I am using the P3 ones currently, but GW has been really upping the ante with some of their painting products lately. Their washes and foundations in particular. I am pretty sure I used some a few months back for a friends squad and it was pretty clean. I should pick up a can for curiosity's sake and see how it compares.

 

But you know a lot of your success with priming comes from how you go about it. Even the best primers get glassy if you over prime. If Krylon, or any other option, turns out to be the best for you; for whatever reason, do a little digging in the tutorials section and find a good method. Methodology can make all the difference. GL and cheers!

 

- Fitz

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.I have had HORRIBLE experiences with the Army painter primer.

 

I bought some based on earlier recommendations and it went on extremely gritty. Followed instructions on bottle and tried it with three different minis on separate occasions which are now ruined. Disappointing. Krylon went on very smooth so I'll probably go back to it. It's cheaper and easily accessible at craft stores so no shipping cost. My first order of Reaper paints came in today so I'm eager to paint.

 

Thank you all again for the compliments and advice!

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Hate to say it, but primer's largely a matter of taste. The one thing you will get everyone to agree on is "don't do it in high humidity."

 

As to clear coat: I use a couple coats of the cheap Krylon gloss, and then when I'm ready to seal it for good... I use the high quality matte stuff that costs way too much. It cuts the shine, and makes it look like it's not coated at ALL, for all that it's got enough sealer on there that you could use a ball bat on it without chipping the paint.

 

Them's some fine old school kobolds, BTW.

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I've used the Army Painter spray for 15mm tanks only. The german yellow went on fine but is pretty bright for dunkelgelb. The german desert came out 'ok', but I've used a couple cans of the german grey and that one always comes out way too...'plastic-y' and shiny for my taste. Plus it kills me that it's $12/can when the WalMart brand is .99 - $1.12/can and works much better for me, if only they had appropriate model colors... :down:

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.I have had HORRIBLE experiences with the Army painter primer.

 

I bought some based on earlier recommendations and it went on extremely gritty. Followed instructions on bottle and tried it with three different minis on separate occasions which are now ruined. Disappointing. Krylon went on very smooth so I'll probably go back to it. It's cheaper and easily accessible at craft stores so no shipping cost. My first order of Reaper paints came in today so I'm eager to paint.

 

Thank you all again for the compliments and advice!

 

FWIW, the problem with a spray paint going on gritty is usually caused by spraying too far from surface so the paint is drying in the air before it hits the figure.

I quit using GW spray primer because the cans would go 'flat' and I could never finish one, and at $15 a freaking can I want every drop of paint out of the bloody thing! (and yes I tried warming the cans & shaking the cans - still had a dead can with lots of paint still sloshing around in it)

Army painter primer is okay, but I wasn't thrilled with the coverage, and again it's $12-15 a can.

I've had really good luck with the $5 cans of Krylon, although the white seems to work better than the black for some reason.

I haven't used the Tamiya spay, although a number of the Pro painters in my area swear by it, not sure on cost, but Tamiya has been in short supply in the US for a while due to importer issues, although I believe that's been resolved now. Still it'll be harder to find than Krylon.

Anyway, that's my $.02. :;):

 

Michael

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Zabby, are the models you primed with Army Painter metal? If they are metal, go to walmart or a local drug store (cosmetics at drug store) and buy some 100% pure Acetone and soak them in that over night, get a nice stiff paint brush or cheap battery powered toothbrush and the primer will mostly disslove and scrub right off. Then use regular dish soap to wash them up so that they will take primer again and give it new coat, should be like new. Also, other Army painter products are great, the dips, the flocks and other scenics are great and relatively cheap, but I will not use any Hobby primers or sealants as they are not worth the cost versus equally if not better quality Krylon products.

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