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wildbill
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I placed an order thru my local store almost 3 weeks ago when the bones first were announced. My store told me yesterday that their distributors say that Reaper has still not released the bones to distributors. Its all good as I dont mind waiting a little, but was a little surprised by that.

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I placed an order thru my local store almost 3 weeks ago when the bones first were announced. My store told me yesterday that their distributors say that Reaper has still not released the bones to distributors. Its all good as I dont mind waiting a little, but was a little surprised by that.

 

I was hoping to see some at my local store too, though I'm not sure of their ordering procedures and their employees aren't always the best at customer service.

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The one downside to the plastic's durability is that the mould lines, while small, are extremely difficult to remove. Scraping it with a knife edge does nothing, and light filing is ineffective; you really need to put some elbow grease in to file the lines off, which is okay on flat surfaces, but presents difficulties when it crosses detailed areas. I wasn't able to clean mine as well as I would have liked so I'll just have to put up with the persistent mould lines.

 

When working with seams on PVC figures, it's best to have a fresh sharp exacto blade, and to only cut, not scrape with it. It takes some practice to work with the material, but eventually you will be able to trim them sufficiently.

 

Halber

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OK here is my big question: I just ordered a handful of these to try it out (Purple Worm for $2.99???) and while I understand you don't have to use primers on these, I prefer to use primers for various reasons. How will primers like Krylon and the like take on these? The old WotC D&D minis reacted badly to enamel based paints (because of the vinyl in them), but there are other types of materials out there (like the glue-together flexible plastic Tamiya uses on some of its models, or Dragon's DS plastic -- a flexible hybrid styrene). I'd be interested to hear how primers will react on these...

 

Damon.

I don't know, to be 100% honest. We tried Testor's spray primer and Testor's Dullcote, we tried Tamiya FIne Primer, and we tried our own MSP offerings. We tried Zap-a-Gap Superglue. Nothing we tried damaged the product. Although, again, we had 100% success painting without primer. In fact, if you come to PAX East in one month, we will have Bones at our Paint and Take to try - and none of the offerings there will be primed.

 

I don't have, and didn't try as a result, any enamels or enamel based primers, or much else. I would be interested to know if you find anything that damages the product, mostly so we can warn consumers away from those items. But also, Lars, try without primer, too. Saving yourself a step might be worth it.

 

I tend to use a black primer, simply because I like the shadow it creates. If Bone were black and not white, then this recommendation would work for me. As is, I'll have to experiment when I place my next order ... of Bones. Frankly, this is SWEET. Love the price and if the quality is as good as your metal, I see a new horde of minis taking place.

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I can confirm that we have in fact released them to distributors, and we have shipped. I will also confirm without naming names that not all distributors elected to pick these up.

That is a damned shame - the more I fiddle with the scant few that I managed to pick up the more that I think that this could be a big success.

 

I am willing to publicly state that I was dead wrong about these not being something for me, while I did pick them up mostly to plug for other folks I have come to rather like them. And I have found that the tentacles from the Creature Components can be used to excellent effect with the purple worm.... ::):

 

A very simple job of drilling a hole, adding the tentacles, and using greenstuff to mask the join. Easy!

 

The Auld Grump

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Got my first Bones yesterday & here is my short review on them

 

Picked up Fulmbar & the kobolds.

 

The dwarf looks great, thou I won't be giving up my metal version of him anytime soon. Details are nice thou I'm not sure if they are as sharp as the metal version. Nice to have him all 1 piece but how on earth are you suppose to paint the area behind the shield & the cloak (ie the area that would be open if that arm is seperate).

 

BAD: The Made in China stamp on the bottom really causes the mini to be unstable. Yes you can sand it off which I will do but I can see where this may cause "problems" with some people.

 

Kobolds looks great. I need to compare them to the metal ones but over all I think they great + hey the price for them, can't complain about that!!!

 

BAD: Not much to say here, maybe some of the details but I need to compared with a metal version first

 

Too bad the sprue parts can't be recycled (then again that is the metal Boneyard collector in me talking there ^_^)

 

I put some paint on the sprue parts last night as a test. Mainly I wiped some paint over the Reaper logo, while the paint stuck it didn't stick like it was a primed surface. Thou I will admit the Reaper logo looks great on the sprue part (only the paint in there & not on the part). I'll have to experiment more with the paint (I used MSP HD for the test).

 

I just scraped a bit off the sprue with my fingernail & it came right off like it was never there. Hmmm not sure what to think about that.

 

Overall thou I think the line has a great future & will purchase more when I can!

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I need to report that the primer experiment with my set was not a success. Testors Flat Black Enamel spraypaint (my preferred primer for plastic) stays tacky. Interestingly over time it went glossy (and still tacky), so there is too much vinyl (or similar) material in it. Or possibly the enamel leeches out the plasticizer. Paint still sticks though! :)

 

Into the SImple Green! That's the next experiment!

 

BTW, I was painting one up without primer. Definitely needs to go on a little thicker than normal. I still thinned my paints, but perhaps by 1/3 (not the normal 1/2 I usually do...this is with GW paints), and was able to get adequate coverage. Follow-up coats can be as thin as you want however...

 

Damon.

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