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Hells_Clown
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My folks just got a digicam and I thought I'd take some pics to upload so everyone here can have a good laugh. It's a 2.5 megapixle cam with a macro mode so it should take good pics, right? Well when I try to get anywhere near a mini with it, in macro or any other mode, all I get is a blurred pic. I'm not a camera adept so with what little info I've given can anyone give me some pointers? What might I be doing wrong?

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You might be getting too close for the focal length of the camera, or too far away for the macro to be effective. Also, if you're hand holding the camera it's possibly camera shake. A cheap tabletop tripod (if the camera has a tripod mount) will do wonders for this problem. Without some examples of what you're getting, however, I'm unable to give you any pointers for improvement.

 

Keep in mind that not all cameras with Macro mode will render a good pic of a miniature. A lot of cameras seem to think that Macro = bugs and flowers and the depth of field for the macro generally sucks. When you've got a figure of a fighter lunging with a sword, you'll get the face in focus and everything else around it is blurred. That's because the depth of field is too shallow.

 

Read the manual for the camera about using the Macro mode and if there's a way to adjust the depth of field. Reading the manual for digital and even the newer film cameras is HIGHLY recommended. They aren't all cut and dried as cameras that were completely manual used to be. They don't all work the same now, and it's not necessarily a Point and Shoot game either.

 

If you can post some samples of what you are getting I can give you more accurate feedback.

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I find the Macro on my GF's Nikon CoolPix to be inadequate. As Aryanun said, the Depth of Field is too shallow. Without oodles of light, pics come out blurry.

 

I much prefer to use the digital zoom on the camera instead. Placing the camera at about four or five feet from the mini, I zoom in fully with the optical zoom and then bump into the digital zoom about 2.5X. This delivers some decent pics. They can be a little dark at times, but are definitely serviceable. I could probably do with some better lighting options.

 

So, try out the digi-zoom if you've got it.

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Instead of a tripod, because I am too lazy to set it up, I rest my camera on something like a candle, cup etc. I stil hold the camera, but steady it on a nearby object that seems to be the correct height.

 

I have a Nicon CoolPix, maybe it is the camera because I have a hard time getting it to focus on the mini in micro setting. I have to use a bunch of floodlights (lamps) to get enough light for it to focus and even then, I take 10 pics efore I get 2 good ones.

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From what I remember, digital zoom = bad, optical zoom = good.

 

The digital zoom basically just makes your pixels bigger, while the optical zoom makes the image bigger by changing the focal length of your camera.

 

Of course, using either type of zoom will magnify any shaking in your camera, so it's an even better idea to get a tripod if you are using a zoom.

 

I personally use a Fuji FinePix 2800, which is only a 2 megapixel CCD, but it produces decent images in macro mode.

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The problem with still holding your camera while taking pictures is you can still get camera shake, which is why a tripod and using the timer setting is best. If you can do that, you're not even touching the camera or (hopefully) anything else that might lend to camera/table/mini shake.

 

Something to keep in mind that flynn touched on... when you magnify using zoom or macro you intensify any camera shake. This is why it's always preferrable to not be touching the camera if at all possible.

 

My ideal shooting is to have the camera mounted physically to the table at a set distance with long lights flanking either side and one other light illuminating the background. The camera itself is an SLR type complete with bellows and closeup lenses (the bellows allows you to get even closer). Everything is set up in a room with no windows, stable ambient light, and no interruptions (in other words, I can lock the door and no one can change the environment). I have either a time setting, a remote release, or a cable release, and I have complete control over shutter speed and apeture.

 

This, of course, is an ideal studio setup where every single shot can be taken the exact same way and, in the case of film cameras, the prints can all be printed using the exact same settings of the enlarger.

 

Then again, such a setup could run a person into several hundred dollars and would take up a lot of room. Not everyone has that luxury.

 

The basics, however, remain the same. Flanking lights, maybe an extra illuminating the background to eliminate shadows. A steady, stable camera, and the ability to control focal length and depth of field. Without those options, I won't even consider a camera worthy of my perusal. :upside:

 

Then again, when it comes to photography, I'm pretty anal. :rolleyes:

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The digital zoom basically just makes your pixels bigger, while the optical zoom makes the image bigger by changing the focal length of your camera.

Right on. That's my understanding as well. Always use Optical Zoom options first. But, in my case, I'm satisfied with the digital applied here. In the future, I'll buy my own camera with a super-fly optical zoom option (or at least a macro that works decently...)

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I avoid using the zoom at all, so I guess it depends on the camera. Check any bells and whistles it has. Take off the flash, and if the macro doesn't seem to work, then try different zooms.

 

The other thing, is put the picture on the highest resolution it can do. Even if this then only allows you to take 5 shots before downloading. Anything over 1.5 megpix will give you a bigger pic than your screen can show in one spot, so you then shrink it with a program, and this will often remove some of the bluriness. I usually take them about 1200*700, and shrink them down to about 300*200. This brings almost normal film quality to the pics. Hope this helps. ::D:

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The other thing, is put the picture on the highest resolution it can do. Even if this then only allows you to take 5 shots before downloading. Anything over 1.5 megpix will give you a bigger pic than your screen can show in one spot, so you then shrink it with a program, and this will often remove some of the bluriness. I usually take them about 1200*700, and shrink them down to about 300*200. This brings almost normal film quality to the pics. Hope this helps. ::D:

Heh....I have a 128 MB memory card in my camera, which allows me to take something like 160 pictures at roughly 1600x1200. ::D:

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I have the blurring problem as well. I have a Minolta DZ1 or digiZ1 (something like that, I'll check it when I get home) and it's 3.2 megapixels. I can't always tell the picture is blurred from the little thumb nail they show you either. It's very frustrating. I know the pic is in focus but the minute I press the shutter release, it blurs. Here's an example

 

snowtim.JPG

 

I didn't even know this pic was blurred until I uploaded it to my pc--then it was too late to retake it.

 

Edit: That's not me, btw--I'm female. It's actually just some Walmart employee I was testing my camera on. He's holding a little snowman that I wanted to be in focus :/

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Nope. That's camera shake hun. Notice how there isn't a single thing in focus at all? When you press the shutter release you're moving the camera, and that's what's causing the blurriness.

 

Your best bet? Get a tripod. Even a monopod helps, but tripods are generally better for stability and you can then use the timer function on the camera so you can be as far away as possible when that shutter goes "click." Using the timer allows for a sharper image since you won't be touching the camera at all.

 

Also, put the mini on a level surface, and you are going to need to be a lot closer than that for a decent picture of the mini. You want the mini to fill at least 1/3 of the frame, preferrably 1/2-3/4 of it for a nice and decent picture.

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