Using 30mm magnetized bases for casual?

[Pharos]

Greetings everyone.

Me and my gaming comunity prefer to base our reaper mini's of 30mm size bases over 25mm as it just makes this easier when positioning into combat and all. We magnetize them so we can use the normal base size if in a tournament of course. Now the question I have is what would the apporpriate base sizes for mofels like cavalry and monsters be? Cavalry is 25x50 standard so should that be scaled to 30x60 when using 30mm as the standard?

[MiniCannuck]

Hey Pharos,

 

Whatever your club decides will be fine - it all depends on how you want things to look. Like any game, if you are playing with your friends, all house rules are up to you as long as you are all having a great time.

 

That being said, if you plan to play at an official Warlord event, the base sizes are defined in the book.

[joshuaslater]

Internal consistency will provide the trick for your group. Post pics with your battle reports please.

[Stubbdog]

I have been putting magnets on the bottom of my minis for about 3 years now. I started out using rare earth magnets, but they were actually too powerful. They kept ripping out of the glue hold I had on them, so I started to green stuff them into my bases. That worked for a while but was a lot of work. Then I found the GF9 magnet bases and have been using them ever since.

 

The GF9 magnet bases are the correct size and have enough magnet to hold pretty good on metal surfaces. I can almost turn my metal sheet upside down and have them stay on. There are a few heavier models that won't but most will.

 

I usually base my models on their usual bases and then I glue that regular base on top of the GF9 base. But, that is just me.

 

IT also is great for me when taking my stuff to the store or tourneys. I bought a small section of sheet metal from Home depot on the cheap and then glued that to the bottom of a 5 inch deep tupperware tub. I just stick whatever figures I am using that day on the sheet and go. Takes 30 seconds to put em on or take em off. Rather than a few minutes for each mini when trying to stuff them into foam trays. I like foam trays but they take to long in store and tourney situations. Plus, it lets passerby people look at my painted stuff and hopefully gets them interested and asking questions..

[TGP]

Is it true that Warlord mini's, based as packaged, are non-metric base sizes?

 

These:

• 1x1 infantry
  
• 1x2 cavalry
  
• 1.5x1.5 medium monster
  
• 2x2 large monster ??
  

If that much is correct the conversion factor is: 1.18110 ( 30mm/25.4mm )

 

Resulting in enlarged metric basing (in millimeters) as follows:

• 30x30 infantry
  
• 30x60 cavalry
  
• 45x45 medium monster
  
• 60x60 large monster
  

@Pharos: I am curious about two things. Where did you get 30mm square bases? Are you guys attaching the minis to a 25mm (one inch) base first then magnetizing that to a 30mm base?

[Pharos]

Is it true that Warlord mini's, based as packaged, are non-metric base sizes?

 

These:

• 1x1 infantry
  
• 1x2 cavalry
  
• 1.5x1.5 medium monster
  
• 2x2 large monster ??
  

If that much is correct the conversion factor is: 1.18110 ( 30mm/25.4mm )

 

Resulting in enlarged metric basing (in millimeters) as follows:

• 30x30 infantry
  
• 30x60 cavalry
  
• 45x45 medium monster
  
• 60x60 large monster
  

@Pharos: I am curious about two things. Where did you get 30mm square bases? Are you guys attaching the minis to a 25mm (one inch) base first then magnetizing that to a 30mm base?

 

The 30mm squares where gotten from the litko website. They have a huge amount of variety when it comes to base sizes. Yeah we base them on the normal 25mm and then magnetize it to a 30mm base.

 

cheers.

[Wowahboy]

The GF9 bases mentioned by Stubbdog work great. I use them for some of my historical figures. I use the large round GF9 bases for my Nappy and ACW Generals. For Warlord, I cut my bases from 2mm thick styrene sheet from Hobbylinc (also best source for Floquil Figure Flat and Zip Kicker) and magnetic sheet from Hobby Lobby. Print out the 40% coupon from the Hobby Lobby website before you go and get a rolled 2' x 1' magnetic sheet for $6.00.

 

I do not use the standard 25mm black plastic bases for a couple of reasons. First, since they are tapered, you have less room on top for models and/or terrain. Second, the undersides are hollow making it difficult to apply magnetic sheet.

 

I use covered cake pans from WalMart for storage. The cheap ones are best . . . figures tend to slide on the teflon pans.

 

Finally, if you want to simplify your lives, don't rebase, just say that anything on the table within 1" is in B2B. Just make sure you declare that the figures are going to be B2B and that your opponent rogers up. For good sportsmanship, explain your intention and clearly measure where opponent can see that your figs can make it into B2B before moving figs within 1". I have used this method often as recently as the tournament last week when figs get jumbled together and especially with figures like my gargoyles with wings and claws sticking out everywhere. It's never been a problem with anyone and for folks with painted figures it can save on wear and tear, since paintjobs do get damaged during the course of play as figures bump and collide. Unpainted figures can be especially injurious to our little beauties.

 

Anyway, that's my thoughts on the matter.

 

Hope I don't get blacklisted for mentioning prices and suppliers . . .

[TGP]

One really easy (and paint job friendly) way to make a measuring stick to check for a 1 inch distance between minis is to take a 1" round base and make a micro terrain piece out of it. Glue a small stone on it, paint, wash, inkstain, drybrush, and add sand or flocking to it just like you would for a painted miniature's base.

 

Result is a painted and flocked boulder. Use the base to check the 1" distance. Use the boulder as the handle to pick it up with. Enjoy leaving it random places on the table for decorative effect. Use it as an I-am-moving-to-here marker or a spell-effect-centers-here marker. Enjoy the ability to measure small distances without endangering minis with those snap-back metal edged tape measures. Use it to prop up corners of large bases on uneven terrain. Enjoy how it does not spoil the tabletop like a bright orange tape measure...

 

Simple to make | numerous uses.

[psyberwolfe1]

I use the GF9 bases now and have slowly been adding magnet bottoms to my no magnetized bases. As a note you can get a nice looking looking dry erase board at Wal-Mart and convert it to an army tray. Your magnetized figures will stick nicely to it, and with a little work you can create a sharp looking magnetized topper. The one thing I'm doing is basing so then I can use for D&D or Warlord..

[Teskal]

Is it true that Warlord mini's, based as packaged, are non-metric base sizes?

 

I put out my Bull Ork and checked the size of the base, it was 25mm, not 1 inch.

 

Would it be a big problem, if the base is round?

 

I bought a lot of large diameter washer (25mm diameter) and was thinking to put most miniatures on this washers.

 

In the moment I'm looking for greater washers for monsters (40mm? and 50mm).

[ttuckerman]

BTW, I use the metal strips and take four boards. The right and left side I cut groves from the front to the back at about half again higher than the minis. Use screws to put the top and bottom on. The top is shorter than the base and groves are cut vertically for the plexiglass that are the front and the back.

 

Using 1" or 2" strips of metal I slide them in the groves. Thus you can take out a stick of figures, take them off the strip and use them. The plexiglass means that you can see them. You could use 1/8" plywood for cheaper. I used wood scraps from other projects so the only thing I had to buy was the plexiglass and eyebolts.

 

One thing I learned is that it is better to go narrow and tall verses long and short. It is easier to get thru doors. I sized mine the same width as my catalog case for my books. You can then stack them on one of the foldable two wheeled dolly when you go to conventions. Eyebolts and a strap are good for short distances. Only short because with metal minis it gets heavy.