necronomitron Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 I know it's not strictly about painting, but I've not come up with a good solution. What are some good suggestions for removing the large chunk of pewter that the mini is attached to when you buy them? To date I've just left them on and painted them the color of the base, but I'd rather try and get more creative with my basing and they're pretty cumbersome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan Peacock Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 It's not pretty, but my best tools for this would be a dull hobby knife, and a pair of gloves. (The reason for it being dull is simply that if it isn't dull already, it WILL be in short order, so there's no sense in wasting a brand new blade on the task if you can avoid it. Even a hobby blade with the tip broken off will still do the job.) I've also done this with a box cutter blade, but it really depends on the construction of the blade and handle -- i.e., if it's the kind of blade that's "oh-so-cleverly" designed to break off in sections so you get a "fresh" blade, or if it's in a cheap plastic handle, it's not likely to be able to stand up to the stress of trying to cut through pewter. Overall, it's tedious, and you have to be careful not to damage the mini in the process or to break the blade. I've snapped a few this way, despite my best efforts. I've sometimes used a hacksaw, but the thickness of the blade is going to etch away precious millimeters that I'm going to have to end up re-building with putty on the new base, or obscuring somehow. Another possibility is to try to incorporate or hide the existing base. Toward this end, I sometimes will use wire cutters to clip off edges of the base (and save the cut-off pewter pieces for my melting pot or else to use as base ballast), then use air-dry clay (Marblex/Stonex) or epoxy putty (Magic Sculp(t) or Apoxie Sculpt) to build up around the base to turn it into a rocky outcropping, a broken slab, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ishil Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 A jeweller's saw enables a much finer cut than a hacksaw. Some people also use a Dremel, but you have to hold it pretty firmly. Ishil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
necronomitron Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share Posted June 25, 2012 Thanks for the tips guys. I might try the Dremel approach first. My luck with knives in general...not great. I have the scars to prove it. Haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BunnyPuncher Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Sprue cutter for the excess, coping saw under the feet, clean with knife. I hate skinny legged minis because it is so hard to drill holes for basing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ixminis Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Xuron clippers are very very useful. They come in a variety of sizes & have a life-time warranty. So far, they are the most durable brand I've used. When using a dremel, it's often useful to drill holes in close enough proximity to each other that you can then use clippers/sprue cutters to cut along the path of the holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evhorne969 Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 I'll second Xuron cutters! Just keep nipping small chunks away until you get down to where you want. I do it all the time when I have to convert a figure. Works GREAT!! Gene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeySloth Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Dremels take a long time and heat up the metal. Use clippers. I can cut off a pre-attached base in under 5 just using a standard sprue cutter and a file for smoothing using the small chunk method Gene mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan Peacock Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 I'll second MonkeySloth's note about Dremels. I LOVE my Dremel tool, but it's really not so great for cutting through pewter of any real thickness. The rotary blade is going to have thickness issues just as with a hacksaw, but with the added "bonus" of a chance of going out of control and cutting areas you didn't want if it catches and slips. As someone told me with a bit of melodrama, "The Dremel can be your friend ... and the Dremel can be your WORST ENEMY." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot Lead Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 +1 for the Xuron cutter! I've used it to chop off broccoli bases with ease. However, for precise or finicky details I prefer a razor saw. The blade is usually ~1mm thin, but I find it gives me more control to make a straight cut than a normal hobby saw (with the wire-size blade.) The blade don't snap either... I can cut off feet easily without losing much metal. Also, if you go the saw route use some bee's wax on the teeth - pewter and lead are very soft metals and will clog the teeth eventually. The wax slows this as well as lubricating the saw for faster cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight Lurker Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 Also, if you go the saw route use some bee's wax on the teeth - pewter and lead are very soft metals and will clog the teeth eventually. The wax slows this as well as lubricating the saw for faster cutting. Wow! Thanks for the tip Laszlo! I've been using beeswax for years in my sewing, how come I never thought of it? Jen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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