Kickstarter Discussion Thread

[araziel]

Just got my order of all the Bones currently released (- the ones I'm getting in the KS anyway). I must say I'm impressed and doubly glad I joined the KS.

The plastic is much more pliable than I expected, but it seems to hold detail better than any plastic I've seen.

 

Also, cutting them is almost too easy, already butchered a few werewolves to pose mod them a bit :P

[ced1106]

I've noticed I've been going through withdrawl. Every time I've gotten a KS update today, I've had this rush of elation... only to find it was for the KS my wife is using my account for :-(. I really want the paints; I've got a bunch of minis that I've never painted that I began too, learned Citadel paints are too hard to work with (too thick to do anything, too hard to thin), picked up some Reaper paint and now have everything on hold...

 

Late reply but...

 

If you're a paiting n00b, do NOT wait for the Reaper paints! Experienced artists need good paint, but good paint will not make you into an experienced artist! Reaper miniatures are highly detailed, and all you will do is wait a long time to kill off a few mini's and unnecessarily waste paint!

 

Grab a Reaper Learn to Paint Kit, plus matte, flow aid, and brush soap from Michael's with a 40% off one-item coupon. You will later buy another sable brush. Read and watch tutorials to learn how to paint. I went the cheap route (craft paints, synthetic brushes), but don't particularly recommend it since it doesn't really save you money.

 

EDIT: Whoops! Reread your post and it doesn't look like you're in n00b territory. You can still get pretty far with craft paints. Forgot the link, but someone tried craft paints on a Bones figure with very good results.

[recruittons]

I've noticed I've been going through withdrawl. Every time I've gotten a KS update today, I've had this rush of elation... only to find it was for the KS my wife is using my account for :-(. I really want the paints; I've got a bunch of minis that I've never painted that I began too, learned Citadel paints are too hard to work with (too thick to do anything, too hard to thin), picked up some Reaper paint and now have everything on hold...

 

Late reply but...

 

If you're a paiting n00b, do NOT wait for the Reaper paints! Experienced artists need good paint, but good paint will not make you into an experienced artist! Reaper miniatures are highly detailed, and all you will do is wait a long time to kill off a few mini's and unnecessarily waste paint!

 

Grab a Reaper Learn to Paint Kit, plus matte, flow aid, and brush soap from Michael's with a 40% off one-item coupon. You will later buy another sable brush. Read and watch tutorials to learn how to paint. I went the cheap route (craft paints, synthetic brushes), but don't particularly recommend it since it doesn't really save you money.

 

EDIT: Whoops! Reread your post and it doesn't look like you're in n00b territory. You can still get pretty far with craft paints. Forgot the link, but someone tried craft paints on a Bones figure with very good results.

 

All of the minis I've painted so far have been craft paints. The results are not spectacular, but it's definitely not terrible, especially for tabletop. You can totally get decent results with just regular synthetic brush and craft paints.

[Slendertroll]

I actually got my start in painting/modding minis from the now-defunct game Heroscape, which had some really great pre-painted minis that ended up spawning a pretty big custom-figure community. For the most people, the goal was to replicate the style of the minis that came with the game: fairly bold colors; a wash or two, maybe a couple layers of drybrushing. The stuff people came up with was really neat looking, and more than sufficient for the functional purpose of the game. The most common paint suggestion was Apple Barrel brand craft paints. Significantly cheaper than professional miniature paints, but capable of producing solid paint jobs. Plus, they're water-soluble, so you can make washes just by adding a bit of water. You can't get anything like the fantastic works of art professional painters make, but for the vast majority of people, that level of skill is unobtainable anyway. Unless you feel limited by cheaper paints, or you're actually a very talented painter, craft paints will probably be sufficient for the majority of amateur painters.

[smokingwreckage]

If I may suggest, if you do go with synthetics and craft paints, still get a good kolinsky sable and some skintones for faces, also some gold and silver for detailing. Getting even a single coat on details on-target with a crap brush is hell on earth and was holding me back from about my second miniature.

 

You might then want a couple of other miniature paints for specific details, like a red-brown and a dull brown-red for stylised reddish leather, or two shades of brown, or a tan plus Coat D'Arms Brown Wash ink. Any of those will make painting in straps pretty easy. The Reaper teals triad is very very bright and "pops" for painting in gems or other decorations.

 

Reaper, GW, and other hobby miniatures have details, and even getting a single coat on them with a bad brush is just self-flagellation. If you don't want to paint straps, buckles, studs, eyes, faces, gems and so on, then that's fine, but most people will want to and I strongly recommend a decent brush or two, and a few nice flowable miniature paints for those jobs. I'm only stressing this because bad brushes caused me so much grief starting out back in the early 90's, and again, you can paint-and-dip and ignore the details. But even a single well placed colour on the details can really bring it up a notch and be very satisfying... and to do that you need tools that aren't fighting you.

 

A good brush and nice paints can make fast paintjobs even faster, and can be much more enjoyable to use. But definitely have some cheap trash brushes for basecoating, and those times when you have to ram them tip-first into a tricky gap.

[Pingo]

I was wandering over the Kickstarter trade thread, just out of curiosity (I don't wish to trade).

 

I think my tastes must be out of the mainstream, because I was startled at how many people wish to trade away their zombie hunters and Chronoscope minis. Really? Trade away a chick with a chainsaw? Wow.

 

Now I question my recommendations on what I'd like to see in Bones.

[Qwyksilver]

Pingo. The bread and butter of Reaper's sales are fantasy RPG characters, NPC, and critters.

 

A lot of people are genre specific and don't like their peanut butter fantasy mixing with their modern/SF chocolate.

 

"You got chocolate in my peanut butter! You got peanut butter on my chocolate!"

 

Personally I love my two great tastes that taste great together.

 

I :love: me some Reapies Peanut Butter Cups™

Edited October 3, 2012 by Qwyksilver

[Argentee]

Pingo, I think because the set is so fantasy heavy it attracted a lot of pure fantasy gamers. Gamers who play mostly sci fi or modern may have stayed away.

 

I mostly play superhero games but I need painting practice. So not into trading so much, though I have been debating offering my dupe paints in trade. Just not sure how much Sun Yellow people need.

 

And some of the bones are being repurposed. Fire elemental can be a villain. Golems can be villains or PCs. I have Ideas! Muhahahahaha!

[cthulhudarren]

Grab a Reaper Learn to Paint Kit, plus matte, flow aid, and brush soap from Michael's with a 40% off one-item coupon.

 

Is flow aid considered a must for painting washes? I'm a n00b and wasn't going to get that. I'm getting sets 1 and 3 from the kickstarter, was planning on getting a couple kolinsky sable brushes, maybe a couple more colors of paint, and maybe some minwax for dipping. And some kind of matte finish to take the shin off.

[CashWiley]

Now I'm hungry for peanut butter cups.

[CashWiley]

Is flow aid considered a must for painting washes?

I painted for a couple years in the 90s with nothing but water. Of course, I also painted straight out of the pot, too. And the guys I knew back in the 80s, most never used anything but paint and water, though the best guy was a fine artist and used all kinds of stuff. You should be fine with the basics until you get a few minis under your belt.

[smokingwreckage]

If you want to use washes, get some flow aid. MSPs flow pretty well without it, but it's like magic in a bottle. I don't recommend any other additive as a must-have or even very desirable unless you find them fun... which I do... but anyway. Get some flow-aid.

[Slendertroll]

If I may suggest, if you do go with synthetics and craft paints, still get a good kolinsky sable and some skintones for faces, also some gold and silver for detailing. Getting even a single coat on details on-target with a crap brush is hell on earth and was holding me back from about my second miniature.

Oh, I didn't actually mention this in my post, but yeah. Good brushes are important, even if you're using craft paints. And you can get flesh-tone and metallic craft paints, which I find it actually work pretty well.

 

And flow-aid is a must if you're using nice paint; craft paints can just be watered down.

 

Oh, and I can't recommend mixing craft and miniatures paints; I'm not sure they take sealant, etc. the same way.

[Qwyksilver]

Now I'm hungry for peanut butter cups.

My work is done

[Exwilly]

If I may suggest, if you do go with synthetics and craft paints, still get a good kolinsky sable and some skintones for faces, also some gold and silver for detailing. Getting even a single coat on details on-target with a crap brush is hell on earth and was holding me back from about my second miniature.

 

You might then want a couple of other miniature paints for specific details, like a red-brown and a dull brown-red for stylised reddish leather, or two shades of brown, or a tan plus Coat D'Arms Brown Wash ink. Any of those will make painting in straps pretty easy. The Reaper teals triad is very very bright and "pops" for painting in gems or other decorations.

 

Reaper, GW, and other hobby miniatures have details, and even getting a single coat on them with a bad brush is just self-flagellation. If you don't want to paint straps, buckles, studs, eyes, faces, gems and so on, then that's fine, but most people will want to and I strongly recommend a decent brush or two, and a few nice flowable miniature paints for those jobs. I'm only stressing this because bad brushes caused me so much grief starting out back in the early 90's, and again, you can paint-and-dip and ignore the details. But even a single well placed colour on the details can really bring it up a notch and be very satisfying... and to do that you need tools that aren't fighting you.

 

A good brush and nice paints can make fast paintjobs even faster, and can be much more enjoyable to use. But definitely have some cheap trash brushes for basecoating, and those times when you have to ram them tip-first into a tricky gap.

i do agree. i tend to get a new brush(Detail brush/ fine detail brush) every 6 months or so due to using them so much. but of course ive been painting minis since 94/95(which from then to now is a super difference which i might add was 8th grade for me).