Kickstarter Discussion Thread

[Daria]

As far as paint additives go, I personally find retarder (slows down the drying process) to be a must have. I mix colors, and find it incredibly frustrating when my paint dries on the pallete (or brush!) before I can get it on the figure.

[Pingo]

My experiments with retarder gave acrylics an unpleasant, rubbery texture. Is it different with Reaper paints?

[Daria]

I don't know, I use citadels without that issue . I also tend to add a little water too though.

 

Edit: Could also be a side effect of adding too much retarder, it's suppose to be used in very small amounts.

[Qwyksilver]

Diluting the retarder in some distilled water has never given me a problem. With either tube artist acrylics or MSP. You need very little. I've always used W&N Slow Drive fluid retarder. You don't want to use the gel SloDri on minis.

[Ampersandrew]

Have any of you guys recommending the use of retarder tried using a wet palatte? It seems to me that the wet palatte is supposed to cure these same problems and I'm wondering if you have any experience of it.

 

I'm only starting to get into painting and I've assembled the stuff to make a wet palatte, I'm just waiting for my first bones figure to be delivered to start into painting.

[Qwyksilver]

I've had wet palettes for years. Use them sometimes. Especially if I plan to paint an army so I have color consistency.

 

I have a premade gunk that includes slow dri, flow aid, distilled water and acrylic medium. Its easier to transport a dropper bottle. One $5 bottle has lasted me years.

[Serenity]

Have any of you guys recommending the use of retarder tried using a wet palatte?

I use a wet palette most of the time now. The welled palette gets used mostly for watery mixes and for the water/flow aid mix I add to the paint on the wet palette. I keep the water/flow aid mix in a dropper bottle, but I find one drop is often too much for the tiny amounts of paint I use.

 

Using the wet palette, I don't need any retarder. This is in a typical midwest A/C environment. Other drier locales may need retarder much more than I do. Wet blending techniques may need it, too, but I mostly use layering (very thin paint on top of dry layers).

[Corporea]

windsor newton and davinci make good sable brushes. fyi, if it hasn't been said before for new painters, NEVER leave your brushes sitting in water.

[ced1106]

Have any of you guys recommending the use of retarder tried using a wet palatte? It seems to me that the wet palatte is supposed to cure these same problems and I'm wondering if you have any experience of it.

 

I'm only starting to get into painting and I've assembled the stuff to make a wet palatte, I'm just waiting for my first bones figure to be delivered to start into painting.

 

As a fellow n00b, I'd recommend getting used to flow retarder and matte before retarder and wet palette. I can put a drop of craft paint with a drop of matte and flow aid, take a nap, and can still use the paint!

 

Do NOT wait until March to start painting. The Reaper mini's are highly detailed, and it's no fun wrecking your favorite miniatures. Get a Learn to Paint Kit and learn the basics.

[Ampersandrew]

As a fellow n00b, I'd recommend getting used to flow retarder and matte before retarder and wet palette. I can put a drop of craft paint with a drop of matte and flow aid, take a nap, and can still use the paint!

 

Do NOT wait until March to start painting. The Reaper mini's are highly detailed, and it's no fun wrecking your favorite miniatures. Get a Learn to Paint Kit and learn the basics.

 

Thanks for the tips.

 

I have the first four of the learn to paint kits on order, but since they have to ship them across the Atlantic I don't expect to have them for a couple of weeks. I got home from work tonight and found a bones troll #77004 waiting for me, so I'll be having a bash at that with the stuff I have on hand.

[Daria]

I don't like wet pallets just because I'm lazy. It's more work for me to set one up, and then a used one always smells funny. With a bottle of retarder I can just squirt and go.

 

But wet pallets are great for Army painting, as already mentioned.

[klawzie]

Veni, vidi, vici.

 

Took me about three days, but I finally caught up reading this entire thread (though I did skim some of the edition wars/metal v. plastic tennis matches)! As I mentioned to Buglips, who PMed me after I inundated his dash with Likes for making me laugh, it was like experiencing the fun of the Kickstarter all over again. ;) (But now I'm all sad panda about it being over. Again. Not recommended for therapy.)

 

Daria - I did hear in my wandering around during the KS that the funny smell of wet pallets could be gotten rid of by using (I believe) rubbing alcohol instead of water. (Maybe it was peroxide or witch hazel. One of the three, in any case.)

[Heisler]

My wet pallet has never had any kind of odor. It if does then you might try putting a penny or two underneath the sponge.

[ced1106]

I have the first four of the learn to paint kits on order, but since they have to ship them across the Atlantic I don't expect to have them for a couple of weeks. I got home from work tonight and found a bones troll #77004 waiting for me, so I'll be having a bash at that with the stuff I have on hand.

 

Nice!

 

Have you done pre-inking before? Basically, you prime a miniature in white then apply a black ink to get the details. This finds mould you may have missed before priming, as well as helps blackline / add shadow to the recesses.

 

http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?30053-Effectiveness-of-pre-wash-(ink)-on-miniatures-help-suggestions

 

Bones does not take wash directly on the plastic BUT I've heard that you can thin down black paint to have a similar effect. So, basically, you can do some experimenting before your LTP kits arrive, *and* have a miniature ready to paint! (:

 

Also, start reading up on flow aid and matte.

[CashWiley]

You don't need inks, you can just run a wash over white primer. From my (only) post in the Ogre community WIP thread:

 

 

White Army Painter primer and a black/brown wash.