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50209: Alice WIP (Wonderland Diorama)


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I have had great results with $6-8 Krylon primer, which you can buy readily anywhere. I used it on all my minis and have had zero issues. It sprays on thinner and a lot smoother than all the boutique primers I've tried.

 

I use Krylon primers too. I am really enjoying using their newer Dual line because I can get the primer in different colors and use according to how I intend to paint the mini. Lighter colors get a white or ivory primer (Seriously in love with the ivory- and although I got it in gloss by accident I am very happy with how my minis are turning out with it). Darker colors get the grey or black primer. I'll be testing out the other colors they have once I come to minis that will have an over all green, red, etc. color scheme- like my dragons and other beasties.

 

The one exception to the light colors get light primer and dark colors get dark primer rule I have come across is a penguin familiar I have. I did that one with the white primer thinking it would be easier to paint black over the white instead of white over the black.

 

In the shutterbug topic I started a picture thread there where I show a stone/skull throne I am working on. The ONLY thing done to it at the point of the picture is the gloss ivory primer under a black wash. If someone told me that I couldn't do anything else to the piece I would be happy with how it looks. I'm not finished with it mind you- but if I HAD to be done I'd be okay with it.

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I have gotten just by just fine with plain ol' cans of white or grey matte spray paint from my local Wal-Mart or hardware store. I try to go light on the spray, since my purpose is just to get an "anchor" for the paint on the most exposed surfaces. I'd rather have a few recessed areas with bare metal than to heavily cake the figure with base coat to the point of destroying shallow features of the figure. The deeply-recessed areas are those most likely to not be fully hit by the spray, and those also happen to be the areas where the paint is going to have the least problem with wearing off, anyway. Any little bits of bare metal will get covered when I go through and apply the base colors with acrylics. (My lighter acrylics tend to be fairly opaque.)

 

My paint jobs won't win any contests, but I think they at least look passable on the table if you squint a bit. =D My primary objective is just to have identifiable markers on the table rather than primers and (for shame!) bare metals.

 

When it comes to doing the final clear matte coat to seal everything, I use Krylon clear matte acrylic; I used to try using cheap Wal-Mart clear-coat, but that stuff yellows over time. A friend of mine uses more expensive paints and base coats for everything (as he is a SERIOUS war-gamer), but I've noticed a problem with the "fuzz" on some of his base-coats; this is Florida, after all, so humidity is a regular problem, I suppose. Still, I credit him with introducing me to the Krylon clear matte acrylic spray, about which I have no complaints (except, perhaps, that I wish it were a little MORE matte, less shiny, for photography purposes).

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And if sprays don't work, Reaper's brush-on primer is excellent. I only get four decent weeks of spray weather here that I can count on (early June and late September). Rest of the time it's either too cold or too humid. I can wait for those good days to dullcote if I have to, but it makes spray priming unfeasible. So I use the brush-on stuff, and I love it.

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And if sprays don't work, Reaper's brush-on primer is excellent. I only get four decent weeks of spray weather here that I can count on (early June and late September). Rest of the time it's either too cold or too humid. I can wait for those good days to dullcote if I have to, but it makes spray priming unfeasible. So I use the brush-on stuff, and I love it.

 

You know I've applied Dulcote inside and then opened the door to air out the fumes.

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I am working on my first mini, had to give up after 4 attempts on spray primer, and I'm now using the Reaper brush on. I am in Florida... it is ALWAYS humid here.

 

How do you find it? Is this the Master Series brush-on? I'm still working through the massive batch I bought of the Old New Pro Paint Primer (tongue-twister!) . . . but I think it's the same formula.

 

In that case, Buglips, can I borrow your cat for my diorama?

 

Hey cat, you wanna be a Reaper Star?

 

Cat: ibith maktu rowrtran basak multek!

 

That's either "yes" or "go forth and kill in my name".

 

 

You don't need the entire cat. Just the smile.

 

post-3313-0-51922100-1347593025.jpg

 

 

 

Okay, it's definitely "go forth and kill in my name".

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It's the master series brush on, and I like it so far! I went into the gaming store to buy my first mini... I figured I'd get a rat, a wolf, something simple. Came out with Dita the Steampunk witch, Alice in Wonderland, and Xiufang. I'm doooomed. :down:

 

Actually, I think those are good ones to start with. For one, they're cool minis so it's easier to keep motivated to paint them. For two, none of them have an enormous bit of bare skin to hassle with (skin usually requires the smoothest layers and has the least obvious highlight path). For three, they have lots of good cloth areas (easier layering practice). For four, lots of different areas of color to play with. And for five, enough detail to work with without being overwhelming.

 

Don't be intimidated by detail. Rather than being hard to paint, lots of detail gives you opportunities to break boundaries of color up and you can fudge quite a bit to cover mistakes. Now the nymph from DHL 02741? That would be an evil one to start with. Nothing but skin and teeny fiddly bits.

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Okay, Psyber wins. I'm a convert to Krylon. After two additional unsuccessful attempts at getting a smooth layer of primer on Alice, last night I made a run to Wally World and bought a can. Good even coat despite a strong wind.

 

I've just put down the basecoat for Alice's skin. Very happy. Going to be doing the shadows and highlights soon. I should have new pictures tonight or tomorrow morning.

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