smokingwreckage Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 I really love your blocked-in shading actually. Are you using reference pics? And the eyes. Also the lips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pingo Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 The face on the second version is really improved. It's more expressive. This is interesting to watch, and now I know what primer fuzzing is. Nice job dealing with that, by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buglips*the*goblin Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 Much better without the primer fur. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan Peacock Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 Those skin-tones look great! :D I guess you had to soak the figure in Pine-Sol or some-such in order to get the "fuzz" off and then re-prime it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pingo Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 Does Pine-Sol work? I have used rubbing alcohol, but it takes a while and a good scrubbing with a toothbrush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackMann Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 Pine-Sol worked pretty well for me with a recent batch of poorly-primed minis. I left the minis over-night in a little dish of the stuff, hit them with a toothbrush and rinsed them off under a tap. Took the bad primer job off like a charm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cloudshaper2k Posted September 15, 2012 Author Share Posted September 15, 2012 smokingwreckage: I have a really strong Ottlight at my workspace and I've been holding Alice up the the light to see where the shadows fall. Pingo: PineSol works great against most of the paints I use (Reaper, GW/Citadel). In this case, I found an hour's soak was enough to strip the Armory primer off the figure. I usually leave a fully painted figure in overnight. The one caveat on this is you will notice a discoloration on the metal after a long soak. For reference purposes, I used Darin Hlavaz's wonderful Bette Davis Eyes tutorial. The liner color and irises are MSP Russet Brown. The whites are GW Skull White. (I should probably put that into my painting notebook before I forget.) Thanks for the complements, everyone. Today, I'm going to try tackling the blouse and dress. ETA: Her lips are an imprecise mixture of MSP Phoenix Red and MSP Fair Shadow. I put a drop of each on my wet palette and put dabs of the red into the flesh tone until I had a satisfactory shade. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pingo Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 smokingwreckage: I have a really strong Ottlight at my workspace and I've been holding Alice up the the light to see where the shadows fall. Pingo: PineSol works great against most of the paints I use (Reaper, GW/Citadel). In this case, I found an hour's soak was enough to strip the Armory primer off the figure. I usually leave a fully painted figure in overnight. The one caveat on this is you will notice a discoloration on the metal after a long soak. For reference purposes, I used Darin Hlavaz's wonderful Bette Davis Eyes tutorial. The liner color and irises are MSP Russet Brown. The whites are GW Skull White. (I should probably put that into my painting notebook before I forget.) Thanks for the complements, everyone. Today, I'm going to try tackling the blouse and dress. That eye tutorial is fascinating. It's just about the opposite of how I used to do eyes, and it looks like it produces great results. Soo ... you used your own eye and judgement to determine where to paint shadows? Very nice, and the results are impressive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cloudshaper2k Posted September 16, 2012 Author Share Posted September 16, 2012 And after several more hours of tweaking and repeated photos, I think the skirt and blouse are set. I think the next task will be the choker. The debate then becomes whether I do her hair next (I'm tempted to leave it until last) or make an insane attempt at Anne's nine layer red. This is already light years ahead of anything I've painted before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokingwreckage Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 She may just look washed-out in the photo, but consider being a bit bolder with your deep shadows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cloudshaper2k Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 I took smokingwreckage's advice and added some deeper shadows by thinning out some GW Bubonic Brown and adding a drop of MSP Yellowed Ivory. These pictures also have the choker and petticoats painted using a basecoat of 1/1 MSP Fire Red and Breast Cancer Pink, shadows of 3/1 Fire Red and Breast Cancer Pink, and a touch of highlights with pure Breast Cancer Pink. Since these areas really don't catch a lot of light, I kept the highlights to a minimum. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buglips*the*goblin Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 Oooh, now that is a splendid improvement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan Peacock Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 smokingwreckage: I have a really strong Ottlight at my workspace and I've been holding Alice up the the light to see where the shadows fall. Brilliant! I've been using a similar method when painting "light sources" and shadows on terrain and large bases, but I never thought to do it with FIGURES for some reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cloudshaper2k Posted September 21, 2012 Author Share Posted September 21, 2012 I didn't quite go nine layers on this red. There's actually six. I started with MSP Bloodstain Red for the shadows and worked my way up to the highlights through Clotted Red, Carnage Red (which has secured itself a warm place in my artistic heart after this project), Fire Red, GW Blood Red, and Phoenix Red. For each color after Carnage Red, I added a drop of the previous color in the chain for continuity and, well . . . see for yourselves. I also did one thing I've not tried before with this segment. Instead of thinning with water, I used MSP Anti-Shine Additive to thin - a trick I recalled from the Darksword Miniatures DVD. I found it gave me much finer control over the flow of the paint off my brush. Now, the debate I'm having at this point is do I call this red done, or do I punch the highlights up more and start getting into the oranges and yellows? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pingo Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 It's looking beautiful. I can't answer about the red highlights. If this figure were as big as the photos here, I'd say yes, but for one inch I don't know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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