Panzer_Engel Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Incidentally, faint hope, but does anyone know if RAFM has a European distributor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qwijoma Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Yes the kit is vinyl. Some of it VERY thick and a pain to cut! And you are right Auld, it is Dennett! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheAuldGrump Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 A pain and a half to cut, right around the hips.... And a knife slip can cause real problems. I remembered the two 'T's for two reasons - I have a friend named John Dennett (not the same one) and because I remembered that thread on Lead Adventures. Then I cheated and Googled the thread. The Auld Grump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankthedm Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Is that resin or vinyl? Vinyl. Also it isn't that expensive, as long as you don't mind importing one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panzer_Engel Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Interesting, but I think I have other claims on my funds. Starting with the forthcoming festive season. . . . Besides, I think I prefer Reaperthulhu; The spindly arms on this version. . . Mmn. . . No. Not really. I was asking because it sounded like he planned to use a two-part epoxy. Vinyl doesn't mind this, but I know from bitter experience it can melt resins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokingwreckage Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 http://www.ralparthaeurope.co.uk/ For a lot of older minis companies, it's worth trying "original name" EUROPE. I don't know why. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanael Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Here is my delayed pic of the offcial Cthulhu sculpt. It was made by Inteleg in 1994. That is a pretty sweet sculpt; I like it better than the Heroclix one, too. I am going to take a moment for the sake of pedantry, though: how did we determine that this is "official?" How is it more official than the Heroclix version or the Reaper version, given Lovecraftian ubiquity and public domain? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokingwreckage Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 And the Lovecraft mythos or whatever you like to call it was open to other authors right from the get-go IIRC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qwijoma Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Well this is the one that was commissioned by Chaosium. Not sure if at the time the rights to the Mythos were public domain or not. Obviously Mr Lovecraft had been long dead so couldn't give his official stamp of approval Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Inner Geek Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I was asking because it sounded like he planned to use a two-part epoxy. Vinyl doesn't mind this, but I know from bitter experience it can melt resins. What kind of two-part epoxy are you using that melts resin? Just so I can avoid it. I use JB Quick/Weld and it gets very slightly warm but no where near resin melting warm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buglips*the*goblin Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Incidentally, faint hope, but does anyone know if RAFM has a European distributor? www.rafm.com Ask 'em. You can order direct from them, too, except for Reaper miniatures. They cast Reapers for the Canadian market and sell those to Canadians only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panzer_Engel Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 http://www.ralparthaeurope.co.uk/ For a lot of older minis companies, it's worth trying "original name" EUROPE. I don't know why. Thanks for the tip. Although that Ral Partha link was one of the suggestions Google gave for RAFM + Europe. . . . One of only four suggestions. . . Which is why I thought I'd better ask people who lived a bit closer if they knew who RAFM was trading with these days. Incidentally, faint hope, but does anyone know if RAFM has a European distributor? www.rafm.com Ask 'em. You can order direct from them, too, except for Reaper miniatures. They cast Reapers for the Canadian market and sell those to Canadians only. Yes, and a surprising amount of ancient Citadel that they've kept the moulds for since the early eighties - Their entire Traveller 15mm range is composed of old Citadel sculpts. - Unfortunately, as you can probably guess, the reason I wondered if they had any overseas trading partners is that if I were to order anything direct, shipping and handling would render the 'quite reasonable' Drocolitch rather expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panzer_Engel Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I was asking because it sounded like he planned to use a two-part epoxy. Vinyl doesn't mind this, but I know from bitter experience it can melt resins. What kind of two-part epoxy are you using that melts resin? Just so I can avoid it. I use JB Quick/Weld and it gets very slightly warm but no where near resin melting warm. I think it was Loctite. And it definately wasn't the heat, the areas around the glue seemed to re-plasticise. Afterwards, when I mentioned the problem, I was told that some of the compounds released by epoxies on curing can soften or attack polyurethanes. Whether that's true of all two part formulations, I have no idea, because after this initial experience I've used superglue on resins ever since. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klarg1 Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I was asking because it sounded like he planned to use a two-part epoxy. Vinyl doesn't mind this, but I know from bitter experience it can melt resins. What kind of two-part epoxy are you using that melts resin? Just so I can avoid it. I use JB Quick/Weld and it gets very slightly warm but no where near resin melting warm. I think it was Loctite. And it definately wasn't the heat, the areas around the glue seemed to re-plasticise. Afterwards, when I mentioned the problem, I was told that some of the compounds released by epoxies on curing can soften or attack polyurethanes. Whether that's true of all two part formulations, I have no idea, because after this initial experience I've used superglue on resins ever since. Huh. I have only used epoxy on resin a couple of times, and it was only a small amount in those cases. I did not encounter that problem, but I will certainly watch out for it in the future! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panzer_Engel Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Huh. I have only used epoxy on resin a couple of times, and it was only a small amount in those cases. I did not encounter that problem, but I will certainly watch out for it in the future! Test your glue on any moulding plugs you've sawn off? Actually, if you could garauntee the degree of re-plasticisation with a given brand, and work with the appropriate amount, then that would make it the best adhesive for the job, as it would weld the components together like poly cement does styrene. I may have to have another try next time I have a resin in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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