Jump to content

The Great Community Ogre Adventure (official WIP thread)

Recommended Posts

Here's my first step. Mini was cleaned a little bit - not really a fan of mold lines on the bones. They're easy to cut off, but so is the rest of the mini! Plastic is quite soft, I can see myself making a pretty major mistake trimming mold lines, so I gave up on this guy. I primed him with GW spray primer (skull white), then basecoated the flesh in GW bleached bone - I'm a Pathfinder GM, and am going to be running my group through Rise of the Runelords soon, so I'm going to try painting him up like a Pathfinder ogre. I also found that the watered-down paints don't cover the Bones plastic very well. You need to have thicker paint, or REALLY good primer coverage on these things.



  • Like 3

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, I'm a bit late to this party but I'm ready to go.


So I've named these two Mudd and Budd. Mudd, the metal one, will be on the left in the pictures. Budd, his Bones cousin, on the right.


So here they are with some primer:




Now, first things first. This is my first time working with a Bones miniature. My first impression straight out of the blister is that the detail on the Bones version is noticeably softer. This may make less of a difference as they progress.


Now all this means is just this: all things being equal, mini to mini, I would never choose a Bones over a metal as a painter. There's simply no contest between the two, the metal wins it. But things are not equal, and Bones are more suited for gaming - and when you can field almost five of those Bones ogres for every one of the metal guys? I mean, come on. Let's not be silly. On the tabletop five plastic ogres beats one nicely-painted metal, three large army men, and a bar of hotel soap.


So I like Bones, they're the best plastic I've ever seen, and I'll buy lots more for gaming. But for painting and collecting, which I'd do game or no game, it's metal or bust.


I also chose not to fiddle with the seams on Budd much. He's going straight to the front, so it's not worth the effort. Try to ignore those, it's the only part I'm not playing straight. Everything else is an exact duplication of technique.


Which brings us to this, skintones:




Coat D'arms for this. I mixed 4 parts 126 Festering Brown (for yellowishness) with 2 parts 124 Dwarven Flesh (for fleshyness) and 1 part 119 Rat Brown to darken it up with some brownishness.


I'm a dark-to-light kind of painter, so usually my basecoat is the darkest shade and I highlight from there.


They could probably use a third coat, but maybe only in spots. I'll do the blacklining first, then see. But before that I have to paint the rest of their bits.


Also, you'll notice that the shade appears a lot lighter on Budd. Thus illustrating quite well just how much the undercoat can change things, even if it's only a little darker or lighter. Budd is sparkling white under there, but Mudd is a teensy bit darker.

  • Like 7

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

And my second update for the day, or my first of the next day depending on how you want to math the timezones since it crossed midnight while I was Ogre tickling.




The basecoating is now roughed in, and it's becoming a lot harder to tell the difference between the two. So Bones's softer detail isn't too much of an issue and is certainly easy to live with for nealry 1/4 of the price of metal. Except for Budd's warped base, they're pretty close.


Paints used:


I originally painted the armlet and, uh, WWE championship belt face in Reaper Old Pro Paint Aged Red Brick in preparation for a highlight to red - but with the Reaper OPP Troll Green shorts the Ogres look a bit like twisted christmas ornaments. So I changed it to Coat D'Arms Hideous Blue, threw some Reaper OPP Dragon Black in for shade, and slung it on. I like that much better now.


The shorts, of course, are Reaper OPP Troll Green. I thought about blue at first, but didn't want them to look like they were wearing daisy dukes.


Fur is painted Reaper OPP Armor Grey.


Wrappings/puttees are Ral Partha Khaki.


Straps and belt are Reaper OPP Shield Brown.


Beard and blacks are Reaper OPP Dragon Black.


Satchel is Reaper OPP Chestnut Brown.


The back pouch is Coat D'Arms Barbarian Leather (you can see it on Budd).


Base is Reaper OPP Woodland Brown. Not happy with it, will probably change it.


Club is Reaper OPP Volcano Brown.


Mammoth and shoulder shield are Reaper OPP "Copper" drybrushed over black. It's called copper, but it makes a fantastic looking bronze, oddly.


Rings on club are drybrushed Coat D'Arms Gunmetal




Next step will be the blacklining.

  • Like 6

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is my ogre, with a black basecoat of craft paint Delta Ceramcoat Black and Bette Davis Eyes (Reaper 9033 Golden Blond and Black). I also gave his fangs a golden blond basecoat.




I then spent the next hour painting his base skin coat with Reaper High Density 29822 Suntan flesh. Sadly I spent way to long at work today (12 hrs :blink: ), so I have to call it a night as far as painting this guy. 1.5 hrs so far.



  • Like 4

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

TaleSpinner pointed out that the odd blobby thing on his front shield was a woolly mammoth (thanks, TaleSpinner!), so I decided to do that before I forgot it or mucked it up (the detail on the Bones ogre is a little soft).




I painted the shield with simple colors, Winsor & Newton Mars black, Liquitex cadmium red light, and a Golden matte fluid titanium white with a little black added, then washed with a mix of the black and Golden burnt sienna, and highlighted with a dark mixed grey (from the selfsame blck & white).




Then I put a thin layer of the white mixed with Golden yellow oxide as a base on his flesh. It's still a bit translucent.



  • Like 3

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had the Ogre for just over a week now so I've had plenty of time to sort out my colour scheme and get my paints ready.... time which I spent watching Boardwalk Empire.....


I normally start with a black undercoat and work up from there on one part of the model at a time, like all the skin then all the armour etc, but as I wanted to try out my first Bones with paint right onto plastic and I didn't want to leave any sections bare I've laid out base colours on all sections without worrying about any of those high-browed things like neatness or accuracy. It's a very rough guide at the moment and is a long way I where from where I'll end up..... It's the Apple Maps layer [/satire].




Putting the base colours on has brought out some more mold lines so as I start each section I'll neaten those up and reapply the base colour rather than be doing the lot at once.




All paints are Citadel, so far I've used:

  • Skin - Elf Flesh
  • Metal - Mithril Silver
  • Wood - Scorched Brown
  • Leather - Chaos Black with Scorched Brown
  • Cloth - Graveyard Earth
  • Hair - Bestial brown with Chaos Black
  • Fur - Adeptus Battlegrey

I think that when I next do a Bones figure I would go back to using a black undercoat unless the whole figure would have the same basecoat all over.

Right; going to leave him to dry for a bit then try and work out the rest of the mold lines on the skin and reapply the Elf Flesh.

  • Like 4

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

used bedab black and devlan mud washes




still moving along did the base and did first layer


better view of the base


face in club


size comparison with a orc archer froms the bone line.


now the size comparisons with the orc and Nagash(Games Workshop Mini. hes is a bigger figure and is getting closer to giant sized.).


was shot in the wrist with an arrow.


  • Like 7

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The lining is done, so I figured I'd update because cleaning up after my patented sloppy blacklining will probably take the better part of today's painting.


So here's a comparison shot of Mudd and Budd before I got to Budd's lining. Just to illustrate why I do lining for contrast (new painters, take note: I use a stronger line than recommended, most top tier painters use something that is not as stark as black. Brown liner, for example). You can also see somebody lamenting her abandonment, standing there and making me feel guilty with her sad stare.





The next pic is of the two with their lining done.




Now you may be able to see the cracking problem I noted yesterday on the chit chat thread, I'm not sure if it shows well on camera. Anyway, I think I figured out what happened.


As noted, this is my first Bones and these two are being done with exact duplication of technique. What this means is that I'm doing Mudd first and then doing the exact same thing with the exact same mix to Budd.


What that means is that I'm not necessarily doing Bones like you should do Bones, and that's where I fumbled into a snag. When I used my Reaper Pro Paint brush-on primer, I did not realize that this might require additional drying time for Budd - particularly as it's being applied over a soft plastic, and I've used it on plastics before and should have known better.


So this was probably dryish, but still tacky, even though it was dry on Mudd. So why only the Pro Paint? Well, that's my older in-use stock. If the partha Khaki was one I didn't have to restore, and I know none of the Coat D'Arms have needed dilution in pot, then the Pro Paint would be the only type used here that I have had to thin all these colours out with water in the pot because they see heavy use and dry up a bit.


So I'd say a combination of that dilution over time, plus the additional tackyness of Budd's primer, explains why the Pro Paint cracked on him but not on the metal guy.

  • Like 6

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Day 2! I didn't like how the flesh was turning out, so I ended up doing a glaze over it and a whole new set of shadows and highlights. I don't know if I'm happy with it. It looks really weird. Anyway. Finished the flesh, hair, and teeth. I basecoated all of the brown-ish bits with GW vermin brown, and am going to experiment to see how many different browns I can get from the same base colour.


  • Like 6

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I didn't like the direction the skin was going, so I re-basecoated the skin in Brown Sand/Chestnut Gold. Then I highlighted this skin as follows:


H1: Chestnut Gold

H2: Chestnut Gold/Palomino Gold

H3: 1 Chestnut Gold/3 Palomino Gold

H4: Palomino Gold

H5: Buckskin Pale


Finally: I glazed it with Clear Green and then touched up the highlights. I still have some tweaks and smoothing to do, but you get the picture:







  • Like 5

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I cleaned up some of the darklines. Sometimes I'll do all my clean-up all at once, sometimes I'll do it as I go. In this case, there being two of them, I'm doing it as I go.


Also started in with some highlights.


If you look, you can see paint worn off the top of the club and the right big toe. Those are my grab points, that's why both minis are worn in the same spot. Proof I'm doing them the same way. ::P:


Interestingly, though this picture doesn't really show it, Budd started out as the significantly lighter one but now he's significantly darker. How weird is that? And it's not because my mix is off, when I make a colour I make enough to do both from the same batch.


Fur is drybrushed with Coat D'arms Lupine Grey. For those that don't know, when I mentione these paints I am, essentially, using Citadel paints. The original ones under a different name. So Lupine Grey is, like, I dunno Space Wolf Grey or something. And I think my Rat Brown I used to darken my skintones is the same as the Vermin Brown upthread in post 24.






  • Like 4

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've cleaned up the mold lines on the skin and got to work on shading this morning.


Started by thinning down Dwarf Flesh and glazing all the skin areas.



I then added some Scab Red and Bestial Brown to the mix and went over the recessed areas.

I've switched over to a rear view as it shows off his muscles clearer than the front.




I then added some Regal Blue to the mix... some was far too much so I added a bit more of the three previous colours to get what I wanted and went into the areas that were deepest or would be darker.




Going to leave that for a while now then I'll start neatening the flesh up and highlighting.

  • Like 4

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Right, last update today, no more painting until tomorrow. I went over the flesh with a Dwarf Flesh glaze then added a little Elf flesh and went over the upper areas (there arn't photos for each seperate stage this time because of some perfectly legitimate reason that I'm struggling to invent right now and definately not because I'm an idiot and forgot to take some... front and back though, so that's something)




I then did a couple more stages of highlighting with a little more Elf Flesh added each time then did a wash of Leviathan Purple on the face ears and nipple... and that's the last time I ever want to think about ogre nipple.








  • Like 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I started this guy about a week ago. I have some cleanup work to do, then I think he's done.


Note: this is maybe the 6th mini I've painted. Its pretty rough, but I'm still happy with him. Some things came off really well. Some not so well. The eyes look odd in the front shot, but I think its the lighting. I'm pretty pleased with those. They're much easier on a larger mini. In general, though, up close with the camera, he doesn't look quite as good as he does on the table. Is that normal?


(Also, working on a better photo setup. Going to get some tips from my wife, the food blogger. She takes incredible shots and I figure I can leverage a lot of her skills.)








  • Like 4

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I decided to put the ogre on a bigger base, the base will get fancied up later. Anyway, here he is 30 minutes after a pass with Reaper Tanned Shadow.




And here I have added more highlighting with tanned skin. A lo and behold, the missing orc spearman showed up, sitting there on the shelf behind an orc shaman :blush: . Cats were unfairly blamed this time...




  • Like 3

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Tigermanic
      Ordered Ma'al Drakar to play the role of Tiamat in my Rise of Tiamat campaign I'm currently running. (Icons of the realm Tiamat is just to small IMHO)
      Having just received it in the mail I'm finally understanding the scale of the project I have Doomed myself to. Lol
      I was wondering if people had tips on mold line removal for pieces this large, what you suggest for Gap filling between all the assembled pieces, should I prime before assembly, and if there is a best way (or horribly wrong way) to pin all the pieces together.
    • By Cicciopiu
      Hello again forum family, I keep my purple period rolling on :D
      This time wanna share with you my version of Eilluvasheth. Beingi n my purple phase the dominant color is purple, and what's better than a gold armor to complement it?
      So I've tried to paint it in NMM to challenge me as NMM is out of my comfort zone. Still I'm trying to figure out where to place the shines and to maximize the contrast, but in the end I'm pretty happy of her, also considering that this lady is full of tiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiny details 
      Also i'm trying to pump the shadows instead of the hi-lights to maximize the purple contrast, just to avoid it to look pink.

      Hope you'll like her :)

      Now, nipples are covered in armor, but to avoid mods to delete the pics, I'll link the front one.

      Hi-Res Front Picture
      Hi-Res Back picture

      As always every c&c is more than welcome.
      Thank you for watching
    • By spitfire23bc
      'Tis the season! I posted this a while ago before is got paint on him. Santac'Laus has featured in the Christmas one-shot games I've run for the last couple of years (and this year is no exception). He's gone from villain to lovable (but weird) friend, who rides a manta-ray-shaped sleigh, pulled by a team of beholders. 
      If you're one of my players, please don't read the spoiler!
      The hat, sack and present were all made with green stuff. The snow was made with snow powder mixed with water effects. 

    • By Cicciopiu
      Hello forum family, I wanna share with ya all my most recent fatigue: Marthragul!
      I was in doubt if painting it into a realistical Earth dragon, or something more colourful... The Magenta won! :D 
      And I chose to don't cut corners, so no drybrush, no washes, no feathering... just dear, old layering, shading and glazing 
      ...cause I'm a fast painter, as you know 

      And, yeah! This took me almost a month of at least two hours per day... basically I hate this dragon now 

      Enough talking, time for pics :D

      I really hope you like it, if you have any question do not hesitate :)
      As always every C&C is more than welcome.
      Thank you :)
    • By Ooook
      What's better to start my KS Bones topic than Mr. Bones himself ?

      (bigger pics on my blog : click the pic to go there)
      (click on the pic to view more)

      (click on the pic to view more)

      (click on the pic to view more)

      And some treasure/objective tokens with Bones bits and various other stuff (Alkemy, Oathsworn Miniatures, GW, and even Ex-Illis) :

  • Who's Online   8 Members, 0 Anonymous, 27 Guests (See full list)

  • Create New...