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A thin disk of felt on the underside of the masts of Sophie's Revenge, and other strategies to paint this beastBy Pancakeonions
I am stunned at my recently arrived Sophie's Revenge, and so excited to get it to the painting table (I will have to significantly reconfigure my painting space to ensure I have enough room... As well as buy LOTS of new brown paint, ha!) It is a thing of beauty, even without a lick of paint on it.
One of the first things I noticed was how the magnetized masts SNAP to the deck, hard. That's what you want, so they'll stay firmly in place. But when you remove 'em, they'll likely scratch the heck out of the painted deck. So I plan to cut disks of black felt to glue to the underside/ magnet-side of the masts, so that when they stick, they're more gentle. Thin felt should not affect how they stick, but it should make a big difference on the ship's wear and tear.
Are you planning on painting yours? What strategies are you going to adopt to make it as beautiful as you can, while still keeping it sturdy as a plaything for your RPGs, wargames, or maybe even little kids (don't judge! mine are gonna be all over this thing!)
StackaRack is a customisable plastic rack for miniature paints, designed to hold pots or bottles from any of the major manufacturers.
Paint collections have a way of growing organically, and most of the current paint rack solutions out there are fixed to specific configurations, and made for a specific type of paint pot. If you're like me, and collect multiple brands of paint, that can make organising them a little frustrating, and so we thought we would try to fix that.
StackaRack was designed to hold any of the major miniature paint ranges - from the dropper bottles used by Vallejo and Army Painter, to the tall pots from the likes of Privateer and Reaper (and GW's old range), and the current stubby Citadel pots. The injection moulded plastic parts will fit together with plastic clips, allowing you to build it how you like, and disassemble and reconfigure it as needed.
Check out the project live on Kickstarter here: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/spiralarmstudios/stackarack?ref=acpi8t
I'd never felt I had an artistic bone in my body until I started painting minis. Well, now, I decided I'm going to try my hand at 2D art.
I am following along Bob Ross videos on YouTube. I will note, and this is probably very important, that I am using acrylic paint and not oils. I did not want to spend oil paint prices since this is a new thing for me.
These are the two I've done:
Day 1: I learned a lot, I needed to do something with my paint to extend the drying time. This would have helped with the blending. Overall, happy with it excepting the house.
2: I used some slow dry medium mixed into the paint today. Not sure if it was not mixed well enough or I didn't use enough but it only gave me like 5 minutes or less of extra working time. If anyone has any suggestions for how to use slow dry medium, please, let me know. I'm using heavy bodied acrylic tube paints.
I followed along until the end and I decided to add some darker blue and green. I think that helped a lot.
Another note, need to find sturdier paper. While this is holding up it likes to curl slightly while drying. The second one is taped to the desk on the back to try to minimize that problem. I am currently using a mixed media paper.
So how do I paint something with a marble effect? I have a sepulcher or sarcophagus, primed light grey, and I want to paint it like it was made from marble. Any ideas or tricks? Colors? Anything? Bueller?
If it helps, its the one from the Horror subset of the Bones 4 Kickstarter.
Looking for some advice on using inks in painting.
So I've seen people using inks and spouting praise about their uses with mini painting. Especially for glazing purposes. I got a set of cheaper inks last christmas, but they really didn't play nice. They were constantly rehydrating. Even with a protective layer of spray varnish. As soon as I painted over top of it, the color would bleed back up.
Anyone know what I was doing wrong? Or if I was using a kind of ink that wasn't compatible? I bought a set of 10 colors from amazon - ZZKOKO caligraphy pen ink.
I got an airbrush recently and have heard that white ink results in smoother zenithal than traditional white paint. Any words of warning?
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