karpouzian Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Does such a thing exist? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSModels Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 I prefer to use http://www.thewarstore.com/product71181.html as a base for yellow. It can be darkened for shadow or lightened for highlights or use a brighter yellow for the highlights. It covers nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrift Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Try adding a little bit of brown or tan to your base shade of yellow to thicken your initial coat. It'll still pull nice and yellow as you blend up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nocturne Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Averland Sunset from Citadel is also a good basecoat for yellow if you want a one coat straight from the pot solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokingwreckage Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 My solution is to baescoat with a yellow-brown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buglips*the*goblin Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Yellow is a pretty evil colour to work with. I also mix with brown or tan for the basecoat. The good thing about yellow is that it trains you to manage difficult colours - which could be any kind of colour. As far as I remember, the more straight pigment a colour has the harder it is to lay down. I've got Ocean Blue and Breonne Navy from old Pro Paint and if you don't mix it with something it'll take 50 coats to get any coverage - but most other blues are an angel's purest joy to work with. The high pigment ones do make for loverly washes, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pingo Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 If you are using artists' paints, the cadmium yellows are both brilliant and extremely opaque. (They're used on school buses) They are, however, toxic heavy metals. They have a range from bright lemon yellow through to a deep yellowish orange. Yellow oxide or yellow ochre or Mars yellow (basically all the same pigment) are iron oxide based and very nearly as opaque as the cadmiums while being a lot less toxic. Their color is nice, but mellower and less bright than the cadmiums. More like a pale brown mustard. Most of the rest of the yellow pigments are translucent or transparent, and I suspect this is why so many minis craft paints yellows are troublesome. Since I don't like to work with the cadmiums, most of the time when I want a really bright yellow I lay down an undercoat of Mars yellow or Mars yellow lightened a bit with white. When it is fully dry I glaze over it with a really bright transparent yellow, such as quinacridone gold. I hope this helps. I'm sorry I haven't really worked with minis craft paints yet, so I can't give recommendations. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psyberwolfe1 Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 This works pretty good. http://www.reapermin...ty/latest/29808 Saffron Sunset is the best though. And the Ochre Golds triad is pretty good as a base tone for painting yellow or metallic gold over it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dispatchdave Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 I've always layed down white first, then my transparent bright color of choice (reds and yellows specifically). That way it takes less coats for that bright color to pop. -Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exwilly Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 i agree with psyberwolfe1 i use HD paint line mainly myself. what i do is layer up. from mustard yellow to golden yellow to pale saffron(thats just me). as they said mix brown or similar color with yellow for the base color. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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