bloodydrake Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 If you use the tanned skin and dry brush more it will brighten up the face if you want more just add a bit of linen white to the tanned skin and drybrush again. over all its looking good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CashWiley Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 That bottled primer needs to be shaken like crazy. And then shaken some more. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farnaby Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Here is the finished rat. I'm actually quite happy with it... Note to self: Do not listen to the BBC Friday Night Comedy podcast while painting. I had to redo the whole mouth again after the brush slipped twice because of me laughing. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akaari Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Cash that post makes me want cry. I just stripped my anhurian for the fourth time because I can't get the face right! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akaari Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 hmmm when I posted that it was showing cash's primed and eye painted mini as the most recent post...sorry! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CashWiley Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 I wasn't going to share this because blech, but this is my current attempt at eyes after an HOUR of trying. I thought it looked good until I took a picture... Sometimes it's just luck and perseverance. Mostly luck. I'm far from good at eyes :) 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akaari Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 I'm starting to think the fact that the eyes on that miniature are recessed behind a helm is part of the problem. I'm starting L2PK2 regardless. Been working on the mold lines on the monk. Going away for the weekend so no painting till Monday at the earliest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ObsidianCrane Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Don't put dots for eyes, put broader strokes, unless you are really looking for that pro paint job. Then you still want dots that go from eyelid to eyelid and have flat edges on the top and bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farnaby Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Watch this . It's quite a good way to paint eyes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farnaby Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 So my rat is finished, now on to the guard. Lots of pics follow, each with comment. Onward... Painted the skin with Tanned Skin Washed with a Walnut Brown wash, twice as the first was too light. Drybrushed with Tanned Skin. First coat of Sapphire Blue, damn it acts so like a wash... Second coat of Sapphire Blue after shaking the bottle a lot, looks to coat better this time. How do you paint this piece between scabbard and leg? And what colour do you paint under the arms? I might think Intense Brown perhaps? As usual, comments are welcome. Cheers 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bloodydrake Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 (edited) the stuff between the scabbard and the leg I left walnut brown the dark color blends in with the shading and shadows you'll do on the blue I ended up doing the inner section of the underarm dark blue(the shading wash color) as well. Edited May 25, 2013 by bloodydrake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farnaby Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 (edited) Carrying on with the nameless soldier... It seems that my first go at eyes with Tsuko from L2PK2 was a fluke. :-) Washed and drybrushed all the cloth. I mixed a drop of blue into the wash for a ratio of 5:3:2 water:walnut brown:sapphire blue. Second shot at left eye, still bad. There is a hole in the mini between the eye and noseguard which catches at my brush and is driving me crazy. Painted the armour, sword and shield. According to an article I read, the best metallics are Vallejo Air. So to try them both, the helmet and sword are Reaper True Silver and the chainmail and shield are Vallejo Model Air Steel. The Vallejo MA Steel is definitely smoother than the Reaper True Silver, but I have used Citadel Ironbreaker (AKA Chainmail) on my first mini, a skeleton, and it's like comparing 2 types of honey to porridge. The Citadel metallic is lumpy in comparison To the Reaper and Vallejo metallics. I will try the eye later. BTW, is the black ink already a wash like the Coat d'arms washes or do I have to dilute it? Onward... Edited May 26, 2013 by Farnaby 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pocketcthulhu Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 the black ink Is a wash but goes on very heavy, I end up really diluting it and using it at like 2-3 drops of water for 1 or 1.5 drops of ink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talae Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 It is about time that I join this thread. I am mostly done with the Anhurian Man at Arms. Just need to do step five and then go back and do a few touch ups. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talae Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 I might dare to call this one complete. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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